03-13-2003, 09:21 AM
| #21 |
| Senior Member  Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Calhoun, Georgia
Posts: 675
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Well I would say that from the pictures he would be a dealer. When you go it would be great to get some pics of that vet bring back to post.
__________________ "You can sleep well at night because rough men are willing to commit violent acts on your behalf" George Orwell |
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03-13-2003, 04:48 PM
| #22 |
| Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: MN
Posts: 57
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Thnx for the info Lefty. Im going to check them out in a couple weeks. So when I'm looking at the gun in person, what are the important things i should be looking for? And also, what should I be looking for when I'm shooting it? thnx |
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03-15-2003, 11:45 PM
| #23 |
| Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: MN
Posts: 57
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The guy who I am buying from said that I could shoot them before I buy them. What should I be looking for when shooting them to make sure they are shooting right?
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03-16-2003, 12:15 PM
| #24 |
| Senior Member  Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Too Dang Hot, Arizona
Posts: 4,284
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Kreator, nice to hear this guy, that's selling the guns, sounds like a 'stand-up' person for allowing you to test fire the guns. First, I would still have the guns checked out. Assuming they check out OK, I would invest in some Sellier and Bellot commercial 8MM (or any other commercial barnd that might be available) for test firing. I would think this will give you a better feel for the guns' accuracy than using the older milsurp 8MM ammo out there. Prior to firing I would spend som time taking the gun apart and cleaning it well and lubing it upon reassembly. When you close the bolt make sure the bolt DOESN'T release the firing pin unless the trigger is to be pulled. A good way to let the firing pin go forward without dry firing is to squeeze the trigger before and while you close the bolt. Thise releases the firing pin gently. I can send you a link on the disassembly of both the gun and the bolt action, if you wish. I would pay attention to the 'feel' of the bolt before you fire them....are they loose actions.....are the actions stiff...are they smooth? I would then first fire three round trials at 25 yards. Allow the gun to cool down between trials and run a swab (moistened with cleaner, of course) down the bore after it has cooled down enough (a cool and clean bore will often fire more accurately than a dirty hot one). Fire another trial of three rounds and compare the patterns. Are they together? Are the two pretty much the same? Repeat cleaning and fire another trial of three rounds, etc. Then try the same type of trials at fifty yards and 75 yards and perhaps even further if you can. Others can correct me if I am wrong but I was led to believe most Mausers are factory sighted for around 300 yards or more so your groups may well be high. After firing each round feel the action of the bolt as you eject the casing. Is it significantly tighter than when the gun has not fired a round or when a spent cartridge is not in the chamber? If it is this could indicate case swelling due to oversize chambers, etc. Look each spent cartridge over carefully. Are there and cracks, splits, bulges or other noticable abnormalities in/on the cartridge? Did the firing pin punture the primer or does the firing pin live a nice clean and crisp dimple near the center of the primer? Pay attention to the trigger pull when you fire. Long and heavy trigger pulls are not uncommon with some Mausers. What you want to be looking for is one that feels 'normal' without roughness on the pull, places in the pull that seem to get a gritty feeling or jerkiness feeling, etc. You can pretty much tell if you like the feel or not. Somewhere in the process check the safety to make sure it's working...preferrably when you chamber the very first round. If the gun shoots, in your opinion with what you know about your eyesight, reasonable groups, shows no signs of distress on the spent cardridges, the bolt freely moves, the trigger pull is acceptable then pretty much everything is okie doke, I would think. Don't forget to clean the guns as soon as you can........ESPECIALLY if you do happen to shoot the corrosive ammo. Anyone have any ideas I might have overlooked? Good luck and let us know how things turn out.
__________________ "It confuses me how some people can vigorously go against the 2nd. Amendment and still call themselves patriotic"-me Last edited by Dale; 03-16-2003 at 12:18 PM. |
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03-16-2003, 01:22 PM
| #25 |
| Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: MN
Posts: 57
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Wow! that was exactly what I was looking for, thnx again Dale! About the primer being punctered or dimpled, which onw is good? And where will be the best places to check for pitting, corrosion, rust, etc.? And how do I check down the bore with out pointing the gun at my head and looking like a moron? thnx |
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03-16-2003, 03:21 PM
| #26 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Too Dang Hot, Arizona
Posts: 4,284
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No problemo, Senor. You want a neatly dimpled primer...never a punctured one. Puncturing is a dangerous situation. BTW, if the dimple is slightly off-centered...no need to worry unless the firing pin is hitting all over the place (compare each round with the one before it). You're probably gonna have to look down the bore with a good light in the chamber area in order to detect any wear, pitting or rust. If you don't have a bright bore light take the bolt all the way out...shine a good and bright light (such as a good flashlight)into the chamber area and look down the bore. You can reverse it then and look up te chamber as you shine the light down the barrel. If the make doubly sure the gun is unloaded and the bolt is removed looking down the barrel is not a dumb thing to do....it's an accepted and expected practice. The key here is YOU make sure the gun is unloaded and safe and not by word of the person handing the gun to you or with assumption that it is. Besides being that a clean gun is a safer gun another reason to clean the barrel is that often when you look down the barrel what you might be seeing is residue from the previous shooter not cleaning it and you can mistake it as barrel pitting, etc. until after you clean it. I've looked at, and bought, many guns that looked like crap down the barrel. But I carry a small cleaning kit with me most of the time and will pull out the appropriate sized bore snake, clean it on the spot and, viola! Looked great.
__________________ "It confuses me how some people can vigorously go against the 2nd. Amendment and still call themselves patriotic"-me Last edited by Dale; 03-16-2003 at 03:31 PM. |
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07-22-2007, 12:47 PM
| #27 |
| Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2
| selling mauser model. k98 rifle
chances are with a captured mauser that goes for 159 dollars is a yugo, czech or other country that captured it and has the markings scratched off. i have 2 mausers k98 rifles, 1 with all matching serial numbers with gun sling and bayonet and another russian capture. the russian capture i have has all the original markings intact and has no gun sling. the only serial numbers that match on it are the stock and the barrel, which are the 2 most important numbers to match. it still has the nazi eagle and swastika stampings on it. i have shot it and it is extremly accurate if you are use to shooting rifles with iron sights only. aim around 3 inches below center at 100 meters and you have bulls eye. it still chambers the original 8mm and it sighted at 200m. i wont sell my mauser with all matching numbers but ill sell the russian capture for $500 and throw in some military surplus ammo for free. |
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07-22-2007, 12:51 PM
| #28 |
| Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2
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i have a Russian capture for sale with all markings intact. stock and barrel are matching serial numbers.
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07-23-2007, 11:47 AM
| #29 |
| Senior Member  Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Norway, Maine
Posts: 235
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Action, you might want to try a different site. most of us here have our C&R's and can get K98's with Nazi proofs and markings for half of what your asking.
__________________ Man's Prayer: Oh Lord I'm a man, but I can change... if I have to...I guess. |
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10-15-2008, 05:17 PM
| #31 |
| Registered User  Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 3
| 159$?
You must have had a great deal buying a working Mauser K98 for 160 bucks. Is it a German model? It could be Yugoslavian. You might want to check. I bought a Yugoslavian model for about that price and it shoots much differently than my German model. But what ever you do, try to avoid WOLF ammunition. Dangerously inaccurate if not cleaned every 3 or so rounds and its considerably some of the dirtiest ammo on the market. Happy shooting!
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10-20-2008, 07:59 PM
| #32 |
| Member Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 15
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Why was this dug up..?
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