If you know someone with a gas welding outfit, get the bolt bending blocks for the Mauser and do it yourself. Put it in a vice, heat it up and bend it. The bolt handle has only one way to go when you pound it down. I have done two of them. Easy- if I can do it so can someone else. You get to keep the original bolt. You will have to modify the stock a bit for the turned down handle. Get the receiver drilled and tapped and you are good to go. I have done a Turkish Mauser and a Spanish copy of the 98k. Or....put on a scout scope where the rear sight is and keep it a bit more original. Something to think about.
If you know someone with a gas welding outfit, get the bolt bending blocks for the Mauser and do it yourself. Put it in a vice, heat it up and bend it. The bolt handle has only one way to go when you pound it down. I have done two of them. Easy- if I can do it so can someone else. You get to keep the original bolt. You will have to modify the stock a bit for the turned down handle. Get the receiver drilled and tapped and you are good to go. I have done a Turkish Mauser and a Spanish copy of the 98k. Or....put on a scout scope where the rear sight is and keep it a bit more original. Something to think about.
Thanks!
Doesn't sound to difficult. Dad has a gas axe (acetylene torch) so heating it up won't be a problem. Bend bolt blocks? Is this something you can buy? Or is it a DIY kinda thing?
I would take the receiver to a gunsmith to have it drilled and tapped. Mostly because I don't have the time to do it.
I had the scout scope on an M44, replaced the rear sight. It worked and I did hunt with it, but I wasn't to partial to it. I like the scope to be a little closer to my eye. I have also seen scope mounts that flip and allow you to use the iron sights. Might be an option too.
I have did many Mausers but not a model 48. I usually cut the bolt handle off and weld another one on. Also I have used a dremel tool to make a cut where the handle goes from round to square. I dont go all the way through and then bend the bolt to the correct position and reweld the open where I cut it. Fill it in good with the welder and gring, file, and polish it. It is actually easy. You can get a gunsmith to drill and tap the reciever. I have a drill and tap jig so I also do mine myself. Also install a low scope safety or a new trigger with side safety.
You'll also need a heatsink and some heat control paste so the threads in the end of the bolt won't be damaged. Keep the bolt body as cool as possible. This also requires a sturdy vice to clamp it in.
You can buy the blocks from Midway or Brownells. Special blocks made to just hold Mauser bolts that need bending. Just heat it and bend it over with a hammer. It has to be red hot, but it will work. Get the heat sink as well.
Dad just put a Bold trigger with the side mounted safety in his Model 98 Mauser, he says it certainly wasn't a drop in and it's no Timney, but it acts like it's gonna be a decent trigger when he gets it put back together. He's inletting the stock for the safety now, and getting ready to re-glass bed the stock.
I have 3 customized mausers 2 are 98's and one is a VZ24, The only limit to the rifle are the limits you place on it. I always replace the stock and trigger, take off the sights, and when I am going to put a scope on the rifle, replace the safety. I have the actions trued and have the barrel set back, have the chamber redone, and the headspace checked. The one I am working on right now is getting a Lyman rear aperture sight with target knobs and a globe front sight with replaceable inserts. A Bold trigger and a Choate stock. I just have to have one with very good iron sights. I have left them all 8mm Mauser and reload my own shells. Long Live the 8MM MAUSER!!!!!!!!! I have ended up with some very nice hunting rifles for my wife and myself. Hers has a Bell and Carlson stock on it and a very nice Bushnell Scope and a Timney trigger. She loves it. Good luck with your endevour.
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3rd Tanks, USMC 75-79--100% SC Vet
the answer is to stock with a raised cheek piece and high rings! Although the one I am building right now with Lyman aperture sights really doesn't need any cheek piece, in fact it would just make it harder to get down on the sights.
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3rd Tanks, USMC 75-79--100% SC Vet
oh and it wont clear the scope covers very easily, I have the flip type on my other scope one and it clears no problem but this one has the caps with the elastic string between the caps and your fingers will get caught between the scope covers and the bolt handle.
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3rd Tanks, USMC 75-79--100% SC Vet
This is what a nice Military Mauser should look like in my mind. My weapons have all been arsenal assembled from all sorts of parts bins but someday.....
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3rd Tanks, USMC 75-79--100% SC Vet
If you look at this one you will see how high it got with a cheek piece and very high mounts. We still had to cut and weld the bolt for the proper clearance, this also gives you photos and closeups on many of the modifications that Cecil and I did.
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3rd Tanks, USMC 75-79--100% SC Vet