Just bought this lady, all matching. I have another that has the crest intact, but the barrel is FUBAR. I'm thinking I might put the crested receiver on this one... but then the numbers won't match. Dilemma. Thoughts?
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Depends on if you want it as a shooter or a display piece. I prefer to shoot my rifles - I'd rebarrel the one with the bad bore. But that's just me. I don't get anal on 'collector value', as I don't generally sell my rifles.
Nah, I like shooters. What I'd really like is to get aholt of a good 91 barrel. They are about as plentiful as chicken teeth, and the 1909 barrel doesn't fit. Large ring & small ring.
I guess I'll keep her as is for now, and maybe later rebarrel with a .308 barrel. It'll lose the sleek lines of the almost full stock though. Oh well...
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"It is a just person who disobeys an unjust law."
Plato (427-347 BC)
This is NOT a safe action for .308. It's even a bad Idea to shoot the common surplus 7.65 out of these old 91s as most of it was loaded hotter for the 1909. If you wanna do a .308 mauser I would find a 98 that bubba already played with. There are many more sportered pieces to work on than nice original pieces.
You gotta remember that smokeless powder was invented about 5 years before this rifle was designed and made, and there is NO WAY they new the full power of smokeless powder by that point in time.
I love my 1891, it sucks about the crest getting removed but it is part of history and if you change it up then it loses it's value. A non crested original rifle will go for more than a crested rifle that has been re-barreled regardless if it's an original Argentine barrel.
Whats really cool about these is you don't need an FFL license to send these around as most of them were made before 1898. My 1891 was made in 1894. There is a way to tell by the serial numbers what year it was made. There is a chart floating around online somewhere and that will tell you what year it was made and tell you if the government considers it an antique.
Last edited by Capt.Hotpants; 07-12-2012 at 06:51 PM.
This is NOT a safe action for .308. It's even a bad Idea to shoot the common surplus 7.65 out of these old 91s as most of it was loaded hotter for the 1909. If you wanna do a .308 mauser I would find a 98 that bubba already played with. There are many more sportered pieces to work on than nice original pieces.
You gotta remember that smokeless powder was invented about 5 years before this rifle was designed and made, and there is NO WAY they new the full power of smokeless powder by that point in time.
I love my 1891, it sucks about the crest getting removed but it is part of history and if you change it up then it loses it's value. A non crested original rifle will go for more than a crested rifle that has been re-barreled regardless if it's an original Argentine barrel.
Whats really cool about these is you don't need an FFL license to send these around as most of them were made before 1898. My 1891 was made in 1894. There is a way to tell by the serial numbers what year it was made. There is a chart floating around online somewhere and that will tell you what year it was made and tell you if the government considers it an antique.
I think different
The Mauser action is very strong, can withstand the 308 perfectly ... I have seen that even Remington Rolling Block prepared to shoot that caliber ...
These weapons are very strong ...
but keep in mind that there are now few arms in original ...
and if you make big changes collectibles lose value
I've been building rifles with Mauser action of thousands of different sizes (they are very strong and work very well) ... but collector value "zero"
excuse my English
If you handload, you can keep the pressure on the lighter side for the older small-ring actions - that's the way I roll for my 7.62X51 barreled Spanish M1916. There is data out there that shows the pressure for the loads, and the minimums are generally safe for the old actions.
I have data for the BL-C(2) powder that starts down in the 37,000 range of pressure - okay for my old warhorse......
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