Mauser 1916 repair

Marrjob · 03-01-2008, 03:26 PM

I have what I believe to be a 1916 Mauser Short Rifle in 7mm Mauser with a stripped front trigger guard screw hole (stripped in the receiver). At first I thought it was a 1895 Mauser because of the squated off bottom of the bolt. But due to the turned down barrel end to receive the front sight I think it's a 1895 Rifle remanufactured to the 1916 short rifle specs. Excepth the turnrd down bolt stumps me. The bolt and receiver serial numbers match and the serial I7397 puts in the 1916 class.

Anyway is there a method for rethreading the front screw hole on the receiver? In the days of my mechanics there was a product called "heli-coil" for repairing stripped threads in engine blocks. This rifle would make a nice shooter.

samuel · 03-01-2008, 04:19 PM

As I recall the original bolt was .254".and I tapped the hole to 5/16,either 18 or 24 threads,probably 24.I set the gun in a drillpress vice and leveled it and started the tap with no power on the press,torning the chuck by hand.I used air to keep the hole clean and used a finish tap to finish the threads.Then I rounded the head of the bolt,cut the slot and cut to length by feel.(tryal and error)I cold blued the bolt which I never liked but this was on a custom rifle in .308win and it has been there,very easy to remove and reinstall ever since.The trouble with the coil spring which I have used is it limits taking the stock off.Forgot to add,you must bore the trigger guard hole larger,not the recess,just the hole. sam.

lefty o · 03-01-2008, 04:37 PM

heli coil would be the answer.

samuel · 03-01-2008, 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lefty o

heli coil would be the answer.

As I recall,using a coil left a loose fit between the housing and post,leaving the stock loose,but maybe I did something wrong.My way worked for me but maybe the coil will work for you. sam.

Marrjob · 03-01-2008, 11:57 PM

Thanks guys for the feedback and suggestions. I think I will first invetigate the availability of a Heli Coil of that small of a hole and even if there is anything in the original metric thread. I'm not sure I have enough metal to tap it out to 5/16" but will study the area. It has been suggested to thread an original trigger guard screw into the hole`and silver solder it in place and cut it off flush and redrill and tap it out. Thats all nice for a professional welder and machinist. Guess I was wishing for an easier way!

Mooseman684 · 03-02-2008, 12:10 AM

I would Have the hole TIG welded...redrilled and tapped By a professional Machine shop or Gunsmith with those capabilities, and In Detroit , you should Have no problem finding a Qualified machinist...
Rich

samuel · 03-02-2008, 11:47 AM

With only about 3/16" or so sticking out from the bottom or flat part of the action there was plenty of metal to tap out to 5/16".Mooseman tells the proper way to go and LeftyO says use a coil.I did it different and it is working fine.It was a way I could fix it and not invest a lot of money.If someone wants to do different more power to them.As I recall,I had about 1hour invested and it is still there. sam.

03-01-2008, 03:26 PM	#1
Marrjob Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Detroit, MI 48224 Posts: 22	Mauser 1916 repair I have what I believe to be a 1916 Mauser Short Rifle in 7mm Mauser with a stripped front trigger guard screw hole (stripped in the receiver). At first I thought it was a 1895 Mauser because of the squated off bottom of the bolt. But due to the turned down barrel end to receive the front sight I think it's a 1895 Rifle remanufactured to the 1916 short rifle specs. Excepth the turnrd down bolt stumps me. The bolt and receiver serial numbers match and the serial I7397 puts in the 1916 class. Anyway is there a method for rethreading the front screw hole on the receiver? In the days of my mechanics there was a product called "heli-coil" for repairing stripped threads in engine blocks. This rifle would make a nice shooter.

03-01-2008, 11:57 PM	#5
Marrjob Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Detroit, MI 48224 Posts: 22	Mauser 1916 repair Thanks guys for the feedback and suggestions. I think I will first invetigate the availability of a Heli Coil of that small of a hole and even if there is anything in the original metric thread. I'm not sure I have enough metal to tap it out to 5/16" but will study the area. It has been suggested to thread an original trigger guard screw into the hole`and silver solder it in place and cut it off flush and redrill and tap it out. Thats all nice for a professional welder and machinist. Guess I was wishing for an easier way!

03-02-2008, 12:10 AM	#6
Mooseman684 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Alaska Wilderness Posts: 8,195 Images: 2	I would Have the hole TIG welded...redrilled and tapped By a professional Machine shop or Gunsmith with those capabilities, and In Detroit , you should Have no problem finding a Qualified machinist... Rich __________________ You know you might be facing your doom,when all you get is a click when you're expecting a BOOM!

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03-01-2008, 04:19 PM	#2
samuel Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 3,501	As I recall the original bolt was .254".and I tapped the hole to 5/16,either 18 or 24 threads,probably 24.I set the gun in a drillpress vice and leveled it and started the tap with no power on the press,torning the chuck by hand.I used air to keep the hole clean and used a finish tap to finish the threads.Then I rounded the head of the bolt,cut the slot and cut to length by feel.(tryal and error)I cold blued the bolt which I never liked but this was on a custom rifle in .308win and it has been there,very easy to remove and reinstall ever since.The trouble with the coil spring which I have used is it limits taking the stock off.Forgot to add,you must bore the trigger guard hole larger,not the recess,just the hole. sam.

03-01-2008, 04:37 PM	#3
lefty o Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: mn Posts: 4,240	heli coil would be the answer.

03-02-2008, 11:47 AM	#7
samuel Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 3,501	With only about 3/16" or so sticking out from the bottom or flat part of the action there was plenty of metal to tap out to 5/16".Mooseman tells the proper way to go and LeftyO says use a coil.I did it different and it is working fine.It was a way I could fix it and not invest a lot of money.If someone wants to do different more power to them.As I recall,I had about 1hour invested and it is still there. sam.