Building a mauser sporter - Page 2

samuel · 07-05-2008, 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twtalbot

Anybody know if a barrel threaded for a commercial FN action (about $130-$150 depending on caliber) will fit a Yugo 24/47 action ($110) ?

Yes,even Browning barrels. sam.

Henry22LR · 07-10-2008, 11:08 PM

Full Metal Jack said

Gunshow stock $5 (no modifications, ie; no bedding)

I guess this means that you took your action to a gunshow, where a vendor had a stock which fit, right?

sbowers5 · 07-11-2008, 06:04 PM

You can buy stocks that are 99% inletted and take very very little if any fitting and most are dropin, from Richards Micro Fit, and another one in warsaw mo., named, Wienig.
steve

K75RT · 07-11-2008, 06:44 PM

Lefty O is right as far as work needed to true the action. The receiver ring needs to be trued, you need a lathe. The bolt lugs need to be lapped, you can make the tool from the removed bbl stub. The bolt face has to be trued, you'll need the tooling and a lathe. You can put a buehler safety but a nice 3 position safety is nicer and you'll need a set of torches to anneal the bolt sleave so it can be machined; I did mine in a Bridgeport mill. If you are going to rebarrel no sense in not doing it all the way. I personally do not like forged or bent bolts. I like a Dave Tally type bolt knob tig welded to the bolt this provides the right amount of leverage and they look great. If you are going to reshape the rear bridge are by grinding or remove the crests on the receover ring you will have to get your action recarburized. Some actions used homogenous steels but many used relatively soft steel and then applied a thin hard carburized skin. I agree a lot goes into making a nice sporter....

sbowers5 · 07-11-2008, 07:07 PM

k75RT i stand by what i said, the man ask about doing a few changes to make a sporter mauser not how much he could spend doing it and i answered his question, and i have been a gunsmith for about 40 years so i have built a few . Jusy my opinion
steve

roverboy · 07-13-2008, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Full MeTal Jack

Started out as a former GnG member sent me a special surprise on a horse trade, a surplus Turk reciever. It layed around on my work bench for 2 years. What do I need with another POS Turk? One day I picked it up and slapped a POS Turk spare bolt in it. To my surprise, it "locked" Whow! I had a 30-06 machine gun barrel laying around. Had gunsmith put it together and drill n tap reciever for scope. After it was all put together from parts, took it to the 100 range. Once I got scope tracking 1" above bullseye, fired second shot. Could not see another hole. Fired again. No new holes. My first thought was, "another FMJ project Piece of 5 hit!!!" A forth round and guess what? It cliped the the other hole! OH MY GOD! Never done that before!
I call her my KS Turk.
Even out to 300 yards, 1 1/2" groups with Federal standard 2910fps ammo.

Reciever: Free
Trigger guard: $5
Stock trigger, follower, bolt etc $60
Gunshow stock $5 (no modifications, ie; no bedding)
Ebay barrel $60
install barrel $70
Drill and Tap $20 (local part time smith)
Scope mounts $25
Barska 30mm 6x10 power $50 approx
Bend bolt myself w/ brownells bolt forge; forge $45
approx total= $340
cheap for a tackdriver

Thanks Jimkin.

Lefty, what's the recipe on the tactical/varment/target mauser?

mauser98 · 07-20-2008, 05:25 PM

you can build a mauser for not so much when you do the work...and sometimes you get deals on parts...you can ALWAYS find a used beater gun someplace for less...but always remember its NOT A MAUSER custom sporter...its most probably a cheap rack gun. IF you bide your time you can build a cheap mauser...i know many that have. myself just picked up a hogue overmold stock for 50 bucks... cent arms had a sale on m214/47s and m48s at christmas....so i bought a bunch...49 dollars each..cant beat it. BUT its what i like to do and what i do...not for money but for me....

Rex in OTZ · 07-21-2008, 11:52 AM

free sporterized 1891 Argentine Mauser that was already sporterized back in the 1970's has a good feel and a natural pointer, very svelte & gracefull military stock!

billcavazos · 08-13-2008, 12:30 PM

The cheapest way is buy a sporterized mauser. They are extreamely cheap. Many nice ones can be purchased for less than 300. You can then replace the stock if you wish or rebarrel if you have to. Unfortunately these very nice Mausers have been redone at considerable expense but can be purchased for 30 and 40 cents on the dollar. Just stay away from the Turk crap. Have a gunsmith check out your purchase and see if proper heat treating has been done etc...

Full MeTal Jack · 08-13-2008, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billcavazos

The cheapest way is buy a sporterized mauser. They are extreamely cheap......... Just stay away from the Turk crap. Have a gunsmith check out your purchase and see if proper heat treating has been done etc...

I resemble that remark

Full MeTal Jack · 08-13-2008, 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Henry22LR

Full Metal Jack said

Gunshow stock $5 (no modifications, ie; no bedding)
I guess this means that you took your action to a gunshow, where a vendor had a stock which fit, right?

Didn't take action to a show. If I find a mauser stock for $5 I'll buy it. I got lucky with the Turk 06 project. Couple other ones, well, just say they were projects. Over the years I've bought lots of stuff from shows. Houston is a gun show heaven. Found Swede 96 barrel in great shape, $35. I bought it. Found 03 Srpingfield receiver, $35, bought it.

07-10-2008, 11:08 PM	#22
Henry22LR Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 49	Full Metal Jack said Gunshow stock $5 (no modifications, ie; no bedding) I guess this means that you took your action to a gunshow, where a vendor had a stock which fit, right? __________________ vote NO OBAMA NATION

07-11-2008, 06:04 PM	#23
sbowers5 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: sawyer, ok Posts: 539	You can buy stocks that are 99% inletted and take very very little if any fitting and most are dropin, from Richards Micro Fit, and another one in warsaw mo., named, Wienig. steve __________________ For those who never fought for it, freedom has a taste the protected will never know.

07-11-2008, 07:07 PM	#25
sbowers5 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: sawyer, ok Posts: 539	k75RT i stand by what i said, the man ask about doing a few changes to make a sporter mauser not how much he could spend doing it and i answered his question, and i have been a gunsmith for about 40 years so i have built a few . Jusy my opinion steve __________________ For those who never fought for it, freedom has a taste the protected will never know.

07-20-2008, 05:25 PM	#27
mauser98 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 2	yeah...i hear ya i build mausers too you can build a mauser for not so much when you do the work...and sometimes you get deals on parts...you can ALWAYS find a used beater gun someplace for less...but always remember its NOT A MAUSER custom sporter...its most probably a cheap rack gun. IF you bide your time you can build a cheap mauser...i know many that have. myself just picked up a hogue overmold stock for 50 bucks... cent arms had a sale on m214/47s and m48s at christmas....so i bought a bunch...49 dollars each..cant beat it. BUT its what i like to do and what i do...not for money but for me....

08-13-2008, 12:30 PM	#29
billcavazos Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 25	sporterized The cheapest way is buy a sporterized mauser. They are extreamely cheap. Many nice ones can be purchased for less than 300. You can then replace the stock if you wish or rebarrel if you have to. Unfortunately these very nice Mausers have been redone at considerable expense but can be purchased for 30 and 40 cents on the dollar. Just stay away from the Turk crap. Have a gunsmith check out your purchase and see if proper heat treating has been done etc... Last edited by billcavazos; 08-13-2008 at 12:37 PM.

07-11-2008, 06:44 PM	#24
K75RT Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Posts: 328	Lefty O is right as far as work needed to true the action. The receiver ring needs to be trued, you need a lathe. The bolt lugs need to be lapped, you can make the tool from the removed bbl stub. The bolt face has to be trued, you'll need the tooling and a lathe. You can put a buehler safety but a nice 3 position safety is nicer and you'll need a set of torches to anneal the bolt sleave so it can be machined; I did mine in a Bridgeport mill. If you are going to rebarrel no sense in not doing it all the way. I personally do not like forged or bent bolts. I like a Dave Tally type bolt knob tig welded to the bolt this provides the right amount of leverage and they look great. If you are going to reshape the rear bridge are by grinding or remove the crests on the receover ring you will have to get your action recarburized. Some actions used homogenous steels but many used relatively soft steel and then applied a thin hard carburized skin. I agree a lot goes into making a nice sporter....

07-21-2008, 11:52 AM	#28
Rex in OTZ Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Kotzebue, Alaska Posts: 441	free sporterized 1891 Argentine Mauser that was already sporterized back in the 1970's has a good feel and a natural pointer, very svelte & gracefull military stock!