whack that handle up with something that wont mar the metal. The old joke about needing a 2x4 to shoot your mosin isn't just fiction.
Edit - Unsolicited comment: I put a little grease on the bolt contact points before shooting to help keep that from happening. I have 1 that really wants to stick no matter what though. Try a little lube, see if it helps next time.
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Last edited by BaserRonin; 07-09-2011 at 09:33 PM.
i tried putting the bolt handle in the vise that just bent the bolt handle. and i tried using a hammer. its got plenty of oil i thought that might help but it didnt
never seen one that couldn't be opened with a brass hammer while someone held the rifle steady. there isn't any other way to do it than smack the handle.
when you do get it open, find out why it stuck. four reasons i know of are, cosmoline/crud in the chamber, a crack in the chamber (brothers remington) a burr in the chamber, and last night i had a guy at the range with a remington that looked like someone actually knurled the small end of the chamber. left some crazy marks on the end of the ejected cases!
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If a brass hammer won't do it, a lead hammer for beating dents out of car fenders ought to do it. If that doesn't work, find yourself a length of pipe that fits over the bolt handle at least 18 inches long and use it as a lever. Once you get the bolt open again, remove it from the rifle and clean the daylights out of it and the chamber, finishing up by polishing the bolt and the bolt raceway with Simichrome or some other steel polish until the steel gleams. The bolt should be mirror-finished when you are done. That ought to go a long way toward preventing a repetition of the bolt-sticking.
I had something like this happen with my Mauser. the case stuck in the chamber and the extractor wouldn't release. Ended up breaking the extractor to get the bolt open. Then I beat the case out with a steel rod.
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had my first mosing stuck pretty bad once. after 4 rounds it felt welded in place. tapped with a brass hammer, tried a pipe for leverage, and put in on the ground and stomped on the bolt handle. (the last one started to budge a little) all this was before i looked up the sticky bolt problem on line.
my father's idea (god, i miss him and his common sense approach to stuff) was to take the barrel and receiver out of the stock and dump acetone down the barrel and around the bolt head. 5 minutes later it opened like a hooker's legs on dollar day... quick and easy. acetone eats both the cosmoline and the lacquer from the shells. lacquer thinner works fast and best for cleaning the chamber once you have it open, but not sure it will work for freeing it up when it's stuck. evaporates too fast to have time to cut through.
had my first mosing stuck pretty bad once. after 4 rounds it felt welded in place. tapped with a brass hammer, tried a pipe for leverage, and put in on the ground and stomped on the bolt handle. (the last one started to budge a little) all this was before i looked up the sticky bolt problem on line.
my father's idea (god, i miss him and his common sense approach to stuff) was to take the barrel and receiver out of the stock and dump acetone down the barrel and around the bolt head. 5 minutes later it opened like a hooker's legs on dollar day... quick and easy. acetone eats both the cosmoline and the lacquer from the shells. lacquer thinner works fast and best for cleaning the chamber once you have it open, but not sure it will work for freeing it up when it's stuck. evaporates too fast to have time to cut through.
that's why i love PPG automotive paint thinner, it won't evaporate like accetone and makes cosmoline vanish, as well as most military applied wood finishes, so make sure to remove the barreled action from the stock!!!!
i had to do the same thing to my Mosin, i let it set in the barrel of thinner overnight and it slid free and slick, without a problem since.
it's really important to keep that chamber clean depending on the ammo your using! allot of the steel cased fodder really leaves a resin on the chamber walls after a long day of shooting, just waiting to glue your action shut when it cools down!
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And this is why it is vitally important to do that good initial first cleaning when you get one.
wish i'd known that back then. never had that problem with a milsurp before, so i thought i had a bad bolt. cleaned all the visible cosmoline out, and did just a cursory wipe out of the chamber. didn't see anything on the cloth after using bore cleaner so i thought it was fine.
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I chucked an old M16 chamber brush into a cordless drill and poured mineral spirits in around it while spinning it around and in and out (stock removed) works great.
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wish i'd known that back then. never had that problem with a milsurp before, so i thought i had a bad bolt. cleaned all the visible cosmoline out, and did just a cursory wipe out of the chamber. didn't see anything on the cloth after using bore cleaner so i thought it was fine.
Thats what I thought once. Then I finally got the nerve up to disassemble the bolt. (Having the aforesaid mechanical aptitude of a rotten orange) I was amazed at the old impacted cosmo still inside. I had even boiled the whole bolt assembly at first and thought that would of cleaned it out. I was wrong.
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i had that happen at the range the other day, it's russian its made to be slaped around just give it a good wack and clean with some thing very acidic.
sorry i haven responded i havent been around for a few days. i did get it open. i just used a framing hammer instead of the little one i tried first. i've put hundreds of round through this rifle and this never happened before. is there a way to prevent this from happening again, or should i just start bringing a hammer with me to the range?
sorry i haven responded i havent been around for a few days. i did get it open. i just used a framing hammer instead of the little one i tried first. i've put hundreds of round through this rifle and this never happened before. is there a way to prevent this from happening again...?
Yes: go to 7.62x54r.net and learn how to clean your weapon thoroughly and properly. There's a metric ton of good info on that site.
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