cycling problems with my mosin m-44 - Page 3

Ricochet · 07-22-2004, 11:26 AM

Here's another idea on the sticky bolt opening: Manually pull the striker back till it's fully cocked. That removes that much effort from the bolt opening, which normally has to cock the striker and extract the case simultaneously.

Ricochet · 07-22-2004, 11:30 AM

Another idea on headspace gauges I picked up on another board recently: Instead of a no-go gauge you can use a go gauge and add disks of paper of known thickness on the back of it till you encounter interference. That lets you know exactly what the headspace is within the spec range, as the go gauge is the minimum value. The no-go gauge is the maximum spec for a new rifle, and the field gauge is supposed to be the maximum for a rifle in service. But with known thickness shims you can duplicate the latter two with a go gauge.

Dennis · 07-26-2004, 10:23 PM

I have used the anti seize trick before it works.
Get a Good bore light and check everything over real good

7mmag6 · 07-26-2004, 11:37 PM

Sorry I took so long to get back to this thread, here is what ive done in the mean time, first on inspection of the bolt componets,I noticed a bit of mushrooming on both the 44 and 30 bolt ends right at the extractor, I dont know if this is common but I relieved the lip down flush with the bolt body on both, this seemed to help with the smoothness of both bolts, you have to feel the lip, if its there, its about 4 mils right at the corner of the extractor and bolt end, seems wierd both bolts would have it. I polished both chambers with a .410 sg mop, using e5 emory( paste) and followed by scr stainless polish, on a drill (inclosed jpeg) next I scrubbed the chambers with hot break free, heated to about 100 deg f, followed by a soaking in more break free and hard scrubbing.I miked both bolt lengths to ensure spec and measured the head space with plasti-gauge that I use for engine bearing clearence, both were fine, after shooting both rifles with cz ammo again I have not had a problem, I think the chambers may become rough with old cosmo and embedded dirt, and wear on the bolt head could also be part of the problem any way that did the trick, for now, I did not have time to fire either one much

07-26-2004, 10:23 PM	#43
Dennis Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Texas Posts: 1,877	I have used the anti seize trick before it works. Get a Good bore light and check everything over real good __________________ Submitted with respect to all

07-26-2004, 11:37 PM	#44
7mmag6 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Posts: 337 Images: 1	Sorry I took so long to get back to this thread, here is what ive done in the mean time, first on inspection of the bolt componets,I noticed a bit of mushrooming on both the 44 and 30 bolt ends right at the extractor, I dont know if this is common but I relieved the lip down flush with the bolt body on both, this seemed to help with the smoothness of both bolts, you have to feel the lip, if its there, its about 4 mils right at the corner of the extractor and bolt end, seems wierd both bolts would have it. I polished both chambers with a .410 sg mop, using e5 emory( paste) and followed by scr stainless polish, on a drill (inclosed jpeg) next I scrubbed the chambers with hot break free, heated to about 100 deg f, followed by a soaking in more break free and hard scrubbing.I miked both bolt lengths to ensure spec and measured the head space with plasti-gauge that I use for engine bearing clearence, both were fine, after shooting both rifles with cz ammo again I have not had a problem, I think the chambers may become rough with old cosmo and embedded dirt, and wear on the bolt head could also be part of the problem any way that did the trick, for now, I did not have time to fire either one much Last edited by 7mmag6; 07-26-2004 at 11:44 PM.

07-22-2004, 11:26 AM	#41
Ricochet Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Bristol, Tennessee, USA Posts: 166	Here's another idea on the sticky bolt opening: Manually pull the striker back till it's fully cocked. That removes that much effort from the bolt opening, which normally has to cock the striker and extract the case simultaneously.

07-22-2004, 11:30 AM	#42
Ricochet Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Bristol, Tennessee, USA Posts: 166	Another idea on headspace gauges I picked up on another board recently: Instead of a no-go gauge you can use a go gauge and add disks of paper of known thickness on the back of it till you encounter interference. That lets you know exactly what the headspace is within the spec range, as the go gauge is the minimum value. The no-go gauge is the maximum spec for a new rifle, and the field gauge is supposed to be the maximum for a rifle in service. But with known thickness shims you can duplicate the latter two with a go gauge.