[grizcty]

Quote:       Originally Posted by tinman77865

it aint your turds, its the disposal of volatile chemicals in it. thats the part that contaminates the ground water. turds are fine in a hole, i got no prob with that.

OK, turd inspector!

For the SECOND time, let me type this real slow......

Please explain, my outhouse to me.

"How" is it contaminating, the ground water?

[tinman77865]

you say its got a hole IN THE GROUND. you pour gasoline into it. it seeps into the ground and rainwater carries it down to the water table, thus contaminating it. I dont get that water here in texas, not from alaska, but if others do the same nearby, i do. why would anyone advocate this method of disposal? recycle contaminated waste, or at the very least, burn it in a barrel, not a HOLE IN THE GROUND. THATS ALL IM SAYING.your outhouse as an an outhouse is great, its fertilizer. your outhouse as a hazardous waste disposal unit is an ecological disaster.

[grizcty]

Quote:       Originally Posted by tinman77865

you say its got a hole IN THE GROUND. you pour gasoline into it. it seeps into the ground and rainwater carries it down to the water table, thus contaminating it. I dont get that water here in texas, not from alaska, but if others do the same nearby, i do. why would anyone advocate this method of disposal? recycle contaminated waste, or at the very least, burn it in a barrel, not a HOLE IN THE GROUND. THATS ALL IM SAYING.your outhouse as an an outhouse is great, its fertilizer. your outhouse as a hazardous waste disposal unit is an ecological disaster.

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OK, grab my hand, and I will walk you back, from the beginning!

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1ST post!

Quote:
Originally Posted by wunhunglo
Not very environmentally friendly dumping oily water down the sewer; if you get caught doing that in Europe it's a BIG fine. I'm surprised that you guys are allowed to or even condone doing it!


You guys, are TOO civilized!!
Running water, sewer systems, dishwashers!

We use the DEPEND method.
And it works well.

I dump whatever I want, when the bucket gets too full!

It goes in the big 5 ' X 16' culvert/hole out back.
Which has a cute little log building, over it.

When it needs it.
I dump lime in it.

Every few years, or so.
I pull the building off the hole.
Dump 5 gallons of fuel down it, let it soak in.
Light a newspaper, and drop it in.

When the fire burns clean.
Drag the outhouse back, over it's spot.
If it is your lucky day.
It might even have T.P. in it.

Here is the best part.
If you come visit, either you wear Depends.
Or you, "depend" on the outhouse.

It puts EVERYONE on the same playing field.

No B.S.
No grease in sewer lines.
No Government inspectors.
No Eco freaks, or fines.


Problem solved! Quote:
Originally Posted by tinman77865
people who think like this are the reason our ground water is contaminated. get a plastic drum and store it, and haul it to a recycler. otherwise you may as well just drink it.


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SOMEONE NEEDS TO PULL HIS HEAD, OUT OF MY OUTHOUSE!

Just WHAT this group needs.
Another long TREE HUGGER, telling me.
How to live my life!!!

OK, wise guy.
Maybe, you can EXPLAIN.

Just HOW, this I am CONTAMINATING, YOUR ground water???
Or, anyone else 's ground water?

I live in the big state of Alaska.
Far away from, the tiny state of Texas!

If you "think" I am gonna store turds.
And then haul them to a "recyclers", at least 300 miles away!
You are out of your mind!

BTW, Mr. Turd expert.
Just how do you store, them at 40-50 below??

I got a great idea!
You can keep recycling, your own TURDS.
And let them, continue make more drinking water with it.

And I WILL continue, to use my out house.
My tried & method.
Has been effectively used, for thousands of years!
(and the planet is still here)

And, your city boy method.
Has been around for??

Just for your info.
Better not, ever go out a a commercial fishing boat, or sail boat.
Guess what, you will find?

Yep, incinerating toilets!
Go figure!

Quote:
Originally Posted by tinman77865
it aint your turds, its the disposal of volatile chemicals in it. thats the part that contaminates the ground water. turds are fine in a hole, i got no prob with that.

OK, turd inspector!

For the SECOND time, let me type this real slow......

Please explain, my outhouse to me.

"How" is it contaminating, the ground water?

Quote:       Originally Posted by tinman77865

you say its got a hole IN THE GROUND. you pour gasoline into it. it seeps into the ground and rainwater carries it down to the water table, thus contaminating it. I dont get that water here in texas, not from alaska, but if others do the same nearby, i do. why would anyone advocate this method of disposal? recycle contaminated waste, or at the very least, burn it in a barrel, not a HOLE IN THE GROUND. THATS ALL IM SAYING.your outhouse as an an outhouse is great, its fertilizer. your outhouse as a hazardous waste disposal unit is an ecological disaster.

NOBODY,

Is sharing my turds, or outhouse water ETC..
It is NOT possible!
Unless they jump down, onto the 5'x16' culvert.

And grab some munchies, and a drink!!!

It is a three sided CLOSED SYSTEM!!!!
The turd hole, is the ONLY open end.
The other end, is sealed in concrete!

WHY?
Would I remove, ANYTHING from it.
To burn, in my other burn barrels?

Turds, paper, pads, grease, bones etc..

I send one last message to OBummer.
I pull the out house, off the hole.
Pour 5 gallons of gas in it, let it soak in
Light a liberal newspaper.
And drop it in, where it belongs.
I then have one HUGE, burn barrel.

How is putting LIME, in a outhouse, fixing to hurt any thing? Lime is used for many things.


Calcium oxide - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

[tinman77865]

ok, now i understand. you said it was a hole in the ground with a culvert. a culvert is OPEN on BOTH ends. and i never ever mentioned anything about lime, as lime is a COMMON soil amendment

[HickFrosty]

Grixcty,
You rock.

[BrianP]

I plan on making my first C&R purchase be a Mosin Nagant 91/30. I only just submitted my application, so it will most likely be the first part of 2011 before I purchase the rifle. In the meantime, I am trying to learn as much as I can. Anyway, I’ve been reading up on our good friend, Cosmoline. I have some noob questions. Cleaning the metal parts seems to be straightforward. Soak it in mineral spirits, scrub and wipe, dry, and apply oil. No problems there. My concern will be the stock.

There is information overload on this subject. Some swear by hot soapy water, while others say no to water and wood. Others mention using mineral spirits, while others say it will ruin the rifle’s finish. I’ve concluded, perhaps incorrectly, that the dry heat method will be the safest. I’m not looking to have to strip down and refinish the wood, which seems to be the end result of most methods of getting the cosmo off the stock. I know I’ll end up fubar-ing the rifle if I attempt to strip, sand, and refinish the wood.

Anyway, to the methods that seem the safest, and I’ll like your opinions on these. A few things to mention first. I will like to have this gun as a shooter. It won’t be often - a few times a year - but it will be fired. Next, I don’t want to stick the stock in the oven. Last, it will most likely be wintertime when I get this rifle, so the bag-in-the-sun method may not work.

So, would this work:

1.) Use a hair dryer and wipe off with paper towels. Once satisfied that you can get off as much cosmo as you can, wipe down with a cleaner. I’ve seen Murphy’s Oil Soap, Windex, and Orange Clean mentioned. Are any of these unsafe, or is one more safe than another?

2.) Scrape off as much as you can with towels, rags, or brushes, and then wipe down with one of the above mentioned cleaners. Over time, wipe off any cosmo that bleeds out on its own due to hot days and/or firing. When summer time rolls around, go ahead and do the bag-in-the-sun.

Any and all advice in much appreciated!

[Cyrano]

Welcome to the forum, Brian. Your choice of a Mosin as you first C&R purchase is a good one. Be sure to enter it in your Bound Book after you get it.

As far as getting the cosmoline off/out of the stock given what you've described: forget about the hair dryer. It doesn't put out enough hot air at a high enough heat to do what you want to do. Were I you, given you want to preserve the original shellac finish I'd use something like a plastic spatula and scrape as much off cosmoline the wood as you can after you've broken it down for cleaning. Then I'd prop it in a bucket and use boiling water to melt off as much as you can. Wipe it dry, and then go over it again with a Murphy's Oil Soap and water solution to get anything that's left. Dry thoroughly and examine.

The existing finish - or more precisely, what's left of it - will look blotchy at best. Go to the art supply store and get yourself a couple of small bottles of Grumbacher's Artist's Shellac. It's used by oil painters, hence the art supply house. Using a small brush, apply the shellac to the stock. A characteristic of shellac is that if you put new shellac on over old, the old will liquefy and combine with the new. Spread the shellac on well, and let dry completely. Lightly sand with fine sandpaper - nothing coarser than 600 grit - wipe down with a clean, dry cloth, and repeat. The finish will come out lighter than the original bulk red shellac used by the Red Army, but it will be as close to the correct original material as you are likely to find.

Post photos of before, during and after when your project is done so we can see how you made out with it. Good luck!

[typicalguy]

just got a mosin nagant it is litterally my first gun ima start cleaning it tomorrow and with that and these exploded diagrams i found ima try to do this myself lol any tips please email- wya102@yahoo.com

[Cyrano]

Follow the instructions at the start of this thread and you should not go wrong. I'd use the boiling water method followed by mineral spirits on the metal; and baking the bolt and the disassembled magazine in the oven in a disposable pan followed by soaking in mineral spirits after.

For the wood, read the thread and choose your own technique. This is the wrong time of year for it, but the black garbage bag and newspaper on the rear window shelf or the dash of your car works really well. If you have a barbecues grille big enough, wrapping the stock loosely in aluminum foil and heating it on the top shelf at low heat works well too. Otherwise, you're back to boiling water, scrubbing and refinishing.

One note: You're going to want to get the barrel band springs out of the wood. I find the Mosin tool and a pair of pliers work well for this. Start the lifting with the screwdriver blade, then use the pliers to wiggle it free.

Have fun!

[typicalguy]

what about the recoil bolt? does that need to be removed?
on these exploded diagrams im lookin at it says there a risk of damage when removing.

[typicalguy]

i went with the break cleaner and ima use a space heater on the stock. i sprayed and wiped everything real good but the bolt chamber still reeks of cosmo so ima hit it again today than start oiling it.

[Cyrano]

No, typicalguy, you don't need to remove the recoil bolt. Just work around it.

As far as the chamber goes, if I were you I would not use the brake cleaner. Use mineral spirits and cotton swabs to clean it out. Pay special attention to the locking groove. It's not unusual for there to be so much cosmoline in the locking groove on the chamber face that you can't even tell it's there, Once you have that cleaned out, again using mineral spirits scrub out the chamber with a bronze bristle brush. Use the drill trick if you have to, but try it by hand first.

[Lucent]

Would it cause any problems to leave the cosmoline in the wooden parts?

[Cyrano]

Quote:       Originally Posted by Lucent

Would it cause any problems to leave the cosmoline in the wooden parts?

That depends on whether you plan to refinish the stock or not. If you don't, the issue you will have to deal with is cosmoline bleeding out of the wood every time you shoot it, especially in warm and hot weather. It can get to be a real annoyance. This is why most Mosin shooters try to get as much cosmoline out of the stock as possible.

If you want to refinish the stock, you do need to get as much cosmoline out as possible. As noted, the best bet is to drive it out with heat. There are a few ways to do that, but unless you're living on a caribbean island or Hawaii this is the wrong time of year for the simplest method (wrap the stock in newspaper to catch the cosmoline, put it in a black garbage bag and then leave it on the dash or the rear deck of the back seat of your car and let the sun do the work, changing the newspaper every day for a week or 10 days). The bottom line is you need high heat to drive the stuff out of the wood.

One of our members has designed a "stock oven" built around gutter material and light bulbs that he says works well to get the cosmoline out. The thing is, unless you are planning to do this a lot in the course of building a milsurp collection it's not practical to build the oven. If you have a large (and I mean like 48 inch wide) grille, you can wrap the stock in aluminum foil and 'cook' it on low heat for half an hour at a time and force it out that way.

But for most of us, the sensible method to use in wintertime is the steam iron method. I suggest you wear protective gloves or use an oven mitt to protect your hands.

Fill your steam iron with water and set to the highest temperature. Dampen a soft cotton cloth (old t-shirts work well for this) and put a single layer on the area you want to clean. Apply the iron to it for a couple of minutes, then remove the iron and the cloth. There should be discoloration on the cloth from the cosmoline the steam drove out of the wood.

Repeat as necessary until you have done the entire stock. Be advised this process will take hours if not days. Steam irons are meant to work on flat surfaces, not the curves of a rifle stock. When you have finished the steaming, you will need to lightly sand the wood with fine sandpaper to close the pores the steam opened up.

Steaming also will raise the dents in the wood provided they are not too deep. This is an added benefit to the technique.

When you're done, you can decide how or whether you want to refinish the stock. Just remember, patience is a virtue.

[DJ1300]

Bought one on the way home tonight and will start cleaning it tomorrow.

Thank you all for the how too info.

[LTCSZ]

How about using a heat gun, being careful, of course, not to burn the wood?

Steve

[Cyrano]

Quote:       Originally Posted by LTCSZ

How about using a heat gun, being careful, of course, not to burn the wood? Steve

I wouldn't. It heats too localized an area. Heat guns are okay if you have one spot that is really bad, such as the hole and notch where the barrel band springs sit, it will do a good job of extracting the cosmoline. But for the whole stock, your best bet is the black trash bag method. Try it with a heat gun, and you will end up with a mottled stock.

[DJ1300]

I used the Purple Power on the disassembled metal parts. Let is soak some and I got most of the Cosmoline off. Oiled it up good.
The wood I set it on top of the Bar B Q grill and heat of the sun bubbled some out. I think if I try any more, I'll try the newspaper and black trash bag in a hot car. It doesn't seen to have much on the stock.
I haven't made time to shoot it yet, working on some 3/8" steel targets to shoot at still, that will deflect the bullets down.

[Cyrano]

DJ, welcome to the Forum and the ranks of the Mosin owners. You're going to love the Mosin Nagant; we all do. Let us know when they breed. Trust me.

One warning: if you are planning to shoot your Mighty Mosin at those 3/8" thick steel targets, use a magnet and make sure you are NOT using steel core ammunition! Why, you ask? Well, at my range we have 1/2 inch thick steel clangers at 100 yards for plinking. They shrug off solid lead bullets , even US GI FMJ rounds.

I bought a tin of what was sold to me as FMJ 180 grain lead rounds. I trusted the label and didn't do the magnet check on the bullets. I loaded Boris Badenov, my M38, up with 5 rounds of my "180 grain lead bullets" and proceeded to plink at the clangers with iron sights before switching to Natasha, my scoped 1926 ex-Cossack Dragoon with the 180 grain ammo and punching holes in the bullseye with it. A cease-fire was called, and I went downrange to retrieve my target. On the way, I stopped to looked at the clangers I'd plinked at.

They had holes punched all the way through them, and the rear of the clanger was spalled half an inch across at each hole. The range master was less than pleased with me. I only escaped a formal reprimand because he read the label on the tin and realized that I had been scammed at a gun show. I had been shooting 180 grain steel core Mosin ammo originally intended for the Degtyaryov and RPD light machine guns.

DJ, learn two things from my experience:

1. Always check your ammo with a magnet to detemine if it's steel core ammo;

2. Never fire steel core ammo at steel clangers. It will punch through them. That steel core ammo is meant to punch through trucks and concrete in a battle zone; it's poor man's armor piercing ammunition for practical purposes.

If steel core ammo will punch all the way through a half inch of mild steel and spall it, what chance would your 3/8 inch steel have? Use a magnet and check your ammo!

[DJ1300]

Thank you,
I was planning to buy a tin online, when I do I'll check it.
I bought 20rd box of PPU ammo where I bought the rifle, I'll check it out. The shop owner said that it can be reloaded. The other stuff could not.
I sure do THANK YOU on the heads up on the steel ammo, I would not like to find out that I punched holes in the plates after taking the time to make them.
Took off today to go to the tax sale, after that I was planning to go to the woods and shoot the Mighty Mosin.
And the breeding, I'm already thinking about a M4A3, but that's kinda pricey. You know the SKS is a lot cheaper though. lol
I also like the Kar and the Grand.
I haven't made time to read all the threads, so any advice will be appreciated

Thank you again,
Dennis