Mosin Stock Refinishing-By Mosin Shooter

Espresso · 10-31-2008, 01:13 PM

I sprayed DPD on my 91/30, then removed it with boiling water. I let it dry for eight hours, then applied linseed oil. Now the rifle feels wet. It's felt wet for two days.

My M44 feels nice and dry, and it has a linseed coat too.

What is wrong? Halp pl0x!

Dan K. Evans · 12-03-2008, 02:08 PM

I need some advise from those who refinish stocks. One of my Mosin Nagants has 3 cracks in the stock just in rear of the receiver. In an earlier time someone repaired 2 with wood dowels. Those areas look good. Further, a new crack formed and it was repaired with two small nails which did not completely close the crack. So, when I refinish how do I deal with the cracks? Will they open up even more with the normal refinishing material? I know - M.Nagants are not expensive so perhaps I should just buy another? However, I'd rather refinish. Ideas? Thanks

paynetrain · 01-24-2009, 11:44 AM

This has been very helpfull. I was allready started before I noticed this thread, but so far I have sweated the stock with a blow torch, very carefully of course[hope I got it all out] now Im going to pick up something at Ace hardware for some finising touches,(sand paper,stain). ps do I really have to pour some scalding hot water down the barrel to get the cosmoline out ?

TinCan Assasin · 01-24-2009, 04:17 PM

I've heard some people use carb cleaner, Gun Scrubber, mineral spirits, gasoline down the barrel... Hot water tends not to stink up the house, though.

If you do use hot water, oil the barrel quickly. Common Sense, I know, but for the sake of those who lack it, had to be posted.

TCA

Lt shiney sides · 01-24-2009, 04:33 PM

Thanks Tin can, I did it with hotwater and oiled it right away. I actually used carb cleaner to remove the laquer from the stock worked great. Now Im deciding which color stain to use and what type of stain.

generoll · 01-24-2009, 11:01 PM

I'm also in the process of refinishing my 91/30. I've noticed that the butt has cosmoline under the butt cap which has penetrated about 1/2" into the wood. Rather then sand it further I'm just going to stain it and hope it covers. The stock is pretty well dinged up and trying to smooth it further would be a losing proposition I fear.

woodhippy · 01-26-2009, 12:06 AM

generoll, I have a 91-30 wood stock in good condition, with all the metal fixtures, as well as the sling should you be interested. If so send me a PM.

paynetrain · 01-27-2009, 03:37 AM

well Id like to remove my post but cant

Yogi · 01-27-2009, 05:33 PM

I just sanded the stock to remove the old red color and spayed a coat of light pine and when it dried some clear gloss urithane. At the range a few weeks ago, I got a few comliments on the stocks of my 870, m-95, and m-91/30. I like the wood tones.

rakhan · 01-30-2009, 11:51 PM

is there anything wrong with just sanding the finish off

Tulamosin · 01-31-2009, 12:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rakhan

is there anything wrong with just sanding the finish off

It'd probably take longer and be more trouble than using a chemical to strip the stock. If you're worried about chemical fumes then I recommend using a citrus based stripping agent (like Citrustrip) which will remove the finish and make your garage/workshop smell like oranges.

I used citrustrip on my stocks along with a plastic scraper and green scouring pad. Following that, I wiped the stock down with mineral spirits and gave the stock a gentle hand-sanding. I repeated this process until the stock was finish free.

kwhunter · 02-01-2009, 01:02 AM

As the finish is shellac, you can easily wipe it off with a rag or 0000 steel wool and denaturated alcohol (available at Home Depot, Lowes, etc).
No need to sand, just wipe it off.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rakhan

is there anything wrong with just sanding the finish off

adamthe3rd · 02-03-2009, 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kwhunter

As the finish is shellac, you can easily wipe it off with a rag or 0000 steel wool and denaturated alcohol (available at Home Depot, Lowes, etc).
No need to sand, just wipe it off.

I agree, i used #3 steel wool and denatured alcohol. It took about an hour and a hour. The wood was down to its blonde natural color. All stamping and patina remained. The barrel cover? still looks red, I think the original finish had penetrated 100% I worked on it longer then the stock and its still red. After all that was done I used a Walnut Danish Oil. It looks like a beauty. I will post pics after its put back together.

ADAM

Rifles Restored · 02-04-2009, 10:14 PM

Here's my Mosin Nagant M38 I did last year in MinWax oil stain & Tru-Oil.

This is what I do with all my spare time.
Home Page

Rifles Restored · 02-04-2009, 10:25 PM

I bake my stocks in a Cosmo Coffin I made from a square sheet metal duct with 6 holes cut out and light sockets installed with 100 watt light bulbs.I have a oil drain pan in the bottom to catch dripping Cosmo, and after 1HR in Cosmo Coffin I can wipe Cosmo right off with a rag..I also prefer Tru-Oil hand applied for a finish over Tung Oil,I use 12-15 coats depending how she looks when I get to 12th coat.

Antebios · 02-05-2009, 09:40 PM

Hello, I am new to this forum, and seeking some help with my cosmo soaked m91-30 stock.

I already striped the stock with acetone, and cooked it over the ovens partly open door (couldn’t fit the whole thing inside)
A fair amount of cosmoline sweated out, but I can’t seem to get it all out.

1) What is a good chemical to use to get the cosmo out? (How about Brownells Whitining?)

I want to use polyurethane, or varnish. (I want a durable very waterproof finish). My worry is that the oily wood will not allow the polyurethane to stick well, and it might discolor and peal off. Will varnish or shellac be better?

2) I want to refinish the inside of the stock as well. When using the gun, will the heat from the barrel be a problem?

Thank you very much for any help, appreciate any advice.

Mr swiggins · 02-06-2009, 11:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paynetrain

This has been very helpfull. I was allready started before I noticed this thread, but so far I have sweated the stock with a blow torch, very carefully of course[hope I got it all out] now Im going to pick up something at Ace hardware for some finising touches,(sand paper,stain). ps do I really have to pour some scalding hot water down the barrel to get the cosmoline out ?

Nice looking job!

Twitch2120 · 02-07-2009, 05:46 PM

what should i finish the stock with if i dont want a shiny finish. a matte natural feel is what im going for.

paynetrain · 02-08-2009, 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Twitch2120

what should i finish the stock with if i dont want a shiny finish. a matte natural feel is what im going for.

Ive sprayed one of my mosins with a light spray of polyurethaine, and ive seen some use the wipe on satin poly and it looks good to , ive even used shellack and kinda toned the shine down with some steel wool.Ive heard of guys useing boild linseed oil , but it smells like bacon to me.Tung oil might work also. Hope this helps

Twitch2120 · 02-08-2009, 09:44 AM

that it does. thanks

10-31-2008, 01:13 PM	#21
Espresso Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: El Republico De Tejas Posts: 910	I sprayed DPD on my 91/30, then removed it with boiling water. I let it dry for eight hours, then applied linseed oil. Now the rifle feels wet. It's felt wet for two days. My M44 feels nice and dry, and it has a linseed coat too. What is wrong? Halp pl0x! __________________ "Bang bang bang bang...vamanos vamanos!" ~ Clutch

12-03-2008, 02:08 PM	#22
Dan K. Evans Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: West Virginia Posts: 76	cracked stock on my Mosin Nagant I need some advise from those who refinish stocks. One of my Mosin Nagants has 3 cracks in the stock just in rear of the receiver. In an earlier time someone repaired 2 with wood dowels. Those areas look good. Further, a new crack formed and it was repaired with two small nails which did not completely close the crack. So, when I refinish how do I deal with the cracks? Will they open up even more with the normal refinishing material? I know - M.Nagants are not expensive so perhaps I should just buy another? However, I'd rather refinish. Ideas? Thanks Last edited by Dan K. Evans; 12-03-2008 at 02:11 PM.

01-24-2009, 11:44 AM	#23
paynetrain Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: The Georgia that didnt get attacked by Russia Posts: 865 Images: 2	Refinishing my 1928 tula M91 This has been very helpfull. I was allready started before I noticed this thread, but so far I have sweated the stock with a blow torch, very carefully of course[hope I got it all out] now Im going to pick up something at Ace hardware for some finising touches,(sand paper,stain). ps do I really have to pour some scalding hot water down the barrel to get the cosmoline out ? Attached Thumbnails Last edited by paynetrain; 01-25-2009 at 07:47 PM.

01-24-2009, 04:17 PM	#24
TinCan Assasin Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Arizona Posts: 1,445	I've heard some people use carb cleaner, Gun Scrubber, mineral spirits, gasoline down the barrel... Hot water tends not to stink up the house, though. If you do use hot water, oil the barrel quickly. Common Sense, I know, but for the sake of those who lack it, had to be posted. TCA __________________ Deprived of Class VI so the IN can have Class I.

01-26-2009, 12:06 AM	#27
woodhippy Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: MO Posts: 50 Images: 17	generoll, I have a 91-30 wood stock in good condition, with all the metal fixtures, as well as the sling should you be interested. If so send me a PM. __________________ I couldn't get this thing to write in cursive so I can't sign my name.

01-24-2009, 04:33 PM	#25
Lt shiney sides Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Hick town USA Posts: 5	Thanks Tin can, I did it with hotwater and oiled it right away. I actually used carb cleaner to remove the laquer from the stock worked great. Now Im deciding which color stain to use and what type of stain.

01-24-2009, 11:01 PM	#26
generoll Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Branson, MO Posts: 258	I'm also in the process of refinishing my 91/30. I've noticed that the butt has cosmoline under the butt cap which has penetrated about 1/2" into the wood. Rather then sand it further I'm just going to stain it and hope it covers. The stock is pretty well dinged up and trying to smooth it further would be a losing proposition I fear.

01-27-2009, 03:37 AM	#28
paynetrain Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: The Georgia that didnt get attacked by Russia Posts: 865 Images: 2	well Id like to remove my post but cant

01-27-2009, 05:33 PM	#29
Yogi Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Albuquerque Posts: 766	I just sanded the stock to remove the old red color and spayed a coat of light pine and when it dried some clear gloss urithane. At the range a few weeks ago, I got a few comliments on the stocks of my 870, m-95, and m-91/30. I like the wood tones. __________________ 1917 Remington 1929 Ex dragoon Hex Izzy 1935 Hex Tula 1943 Izzy Ex Sniper 1943 M38 1948 M44

01-30-2009, 11:51 PM	#30
rakhan Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 65	is there anything wrong with just sanding the finish off

02-04-2009, 10:14 PM	#34
Rifles Restored Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Working Posts: 4	Here's my Mosin Nagant M38 I did last year in MinWax oil stain & Tru-Oil. This is what I do with all my spare time. Home Page

02-04-2009, 10:25 PM	#35
Rifles Restored Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Working Posts: 4	I bake my stocks in a Cosmo Coffin I made from a square sheet metal duct with 6 holes cut out and light sockets installed with 100 watt light bulbs.I have a oil drain pan in the bottom to catch dripping Cosmo, and after 1HR in Cosmo Coffin I can wipe Cosmo right off with a rag..I also prefer Tru-Oil hand applied for a finish over Tung Oil,I use 12-15 coats depending how she looks when I get to 12th coat.

02-05-2009, 09:40 PM	#36
Antebios Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 1	seeking some help with my cosmo soaked m91-30 stock Hello, I am new to this forum, and seeking some help with my cosmo soaked m91-30 stock. I already striped the stock with acetone, and cooked it over the ovens partly open door (couldn’t fit the whole thing inside) A fair amount of cosmoline sweated out, but I can’t seem to get it all out. 1) What is a good chemical to use to get the cosmo out? (How about Brownells Whitining?) I want to use polyurethane, or varnish. (I want a durable very waterproof finish). My worry is that the oily wood will not allow the polyurethane to stick well, and it might discolor and peal off. Will varnish or shellac be better? 2) I want to refinish the inside of the stock as well. When using the gun, will the heat from the barrel be a problem? Thank you very much for any help, appreciate any advice.

02-07-2009, 05:46 PM	#38
Twitch2120 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Tucker, GA Posts: 351	what should i finish the stock with if i dont want a shiny finish. a matte natural feel is what im going for.

02-08-2009, 09:44 AM	#40
Twitch2120 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Tucker, GA Posts: 351	that it does. thanks