BLO allows mildew to form. im gonna run with a the tung oil and deal with the shine. the color i chose is probably better off with some shine. i was trying to restore the gun back to its original fighting form but some dude in illinois decided to laser engrave his shop into my barrel. now im just doing whatever looks ok
i was trying to restore the gun back to its original fighting form but some dude in illinois decided to laser engrave his shop into my barrel. now im just doing whatever looks ok
That's the importer mark. Do NOT remove that, it has your gun's legal serial number. Very very VERY bad doodoo!
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"Bang bang bang bang...vamanos vamanos!" ~ Clutch
i see the serial you are refering to. my mark is separate. this dude wanted to write his shop in it. its covered by the wood so no harm done but its still there
I was a custom cabinet maker for 18 yrs. and we often used a product i haven't seen mentioned.It was Watco Oil ,came in black,dark and medium walnut colors also natural.Kinda like linseed oil with color maybe it's still around.super simple wipe on wipe off.More coats more shine.
Breakfree gun cleaner strips the old varnish like a dream . I actually discovered this by pure accident . Shot my 91/30 tula hex receiver trying to get the cosmo out of the receiver grooves and dang it I fubar'ed the stock to the point of having to refinish it . I have yet to decide what to refinish with most likely a rubbed oil finish .
Does anyone know how to strip a laminated stock without neutralizing the glue holding it together?
what finish is on it now? if it's the russian shellac, you can scrape it off with the backside of a knife as easy as anything else. if i weren't worried about removing cartouches, i'd say sandpaper. no chance of it coming unglued either way.
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not tru-oil. but you can knock the shine down easy with 000 or 0000 steel wool. it's the easiest to apply in my opinion. you can get it in an aerosol can. no fuss, no muss and no mess.
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I actually stripped my 91/30 stock with fingernail polish remover and some sanding. Not TOO much sanding because I wanted to preserve stamp marks etc...
Mosin stocks were not treated with a high quality finish in the first place, so taking the finish off is easier than with quality stocks or pieces of furniture...
I used a couple coats of Minwax Red Mahogany with a coat of Colonial Maple in hopes of turning it more orange than red to mimic the old shellac... I can't tell if the Maple stain had much effect or not...
LOTS of coats of boiled linseed, hand rubbed bare handed because the heat from your hands helps the oil penetrate
not tru-oil. but you can knock the shine down easy with 000 or 0000 steel wool. it's the easiest to apply in my opinion. you can get it in an aerosol can. no fuss, no muss and no mess.
I should have specified linseed oil... which of course looks shiny as it soaks in, but ends up a nice mellow matte finish
i figured you meant linseed oil. i just wanted to make sure anyone wouldn't think that a tru-oil finish would come out matte without steel wool.
how about posting some pics of your mosin? i'd love to see how it turned out.
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I'm on something like the sixth or seventh coat of linseed on my Mosin, and it just keeps getting better... Saving Private Ryan was on TV tonight, so I spent the majority of the broadcast rubbing the oil in or buffing it out... and yes, insert dirty remarks here...
working on a couple other stocks and my walnut grips for my P-38 as well... but since my "workshop" is the center of my living room, I haven't taken that bolt apart yet... I want to put all these back together before I start doing something like taking a bolt apart
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