 12Likes 
12-29-2009, 10:08 PM
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#61 | | Firearm Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 61
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what would i use as a stain to get a rich dark dark color. i have a beach not walnut stock so the wood is light by nature. good idea with the cosmo coffin
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12-29-2009, 10:17 PM
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#62 | | Firearm Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 61
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is there any harm in stripping the finish and then just putting about 25 coats of tung oil on it or will that not do?
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02-28-2010, 03:13 PM
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#63 | | Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 4
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03-02-2010, 06:33 AM
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#64 | | Firearm Enthusiast
Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Monticello Maine 04760
Posts: 146
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very nice Menace i like them light like that
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03-06-2010, 07:28 PM
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#65 | | Firearm Aficionado
Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Leavenworth, Ks
Posts: 564
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mosin shooter try using a steam iron over a towel on the dents. I have used this before in some woodworking i have done. It does work Blue Fox
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05-28-2010, 01:58 PM
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#67 | | Firearm Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2010 Location: Novato California
Posts: 50
| Pain in the ass 91/30
My 91/30's beach stock for some reason did not want to take any stain period. It was a six day process but after eight coats of ZAR (ironic) Dark MAhogany its the color i want.
side question
I here people using bleach to lighten stocks but has anyone ever used ammonia to darken theirs?
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08-29-2010, 01:27 PM
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#68 | | Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1
|  Elbow grease
Hey all -
Reading these posts - thanks to all for their input and ideas. I opted to use only mineral spirits in cleaning old cosmoline off and softening the stain up. Then I proceeded to chew through several sheets of 80grit to strip the shellac and stain off. Then went to 100, 180 then 200. Once cleaned - a misting of water (not soaked) to raise grain. One final 180, then 200 sanding - then I used Watco Danish Oil (natural finish). 4 coats, a final sanding then making sure it is cured, I used Bulls-Eye shellac. 3 coats, with 000 steel wool in between coats to removed orange peel and soften the gloss. By the way - did not remove the ring springs - not wanting to stress the stock too much. It is a 1933 Mosin that was in surprisingly good shape with an exceptionally good barrel. Considering the age I did not want to gamble with harsher chemicals. It was a surplus weapon and there is simply no way to know how it was treated, nor how it would react to being soaked or hosed off. In the end, I have a very clean, natural colored wood stock with the markings still in tact. Very happy with the results - !
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10-06-2010, 12:05 AM
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#69 | | Firearm Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 13
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Idid something a little odd to strip mine... I scraped a chip or two of the "olgas fingernails" finish off near an endcap with the flat part of a relatively soft/flexible plastic disposable putty blade, and the rest of it sorta just fell off from there when barely scraped with the plastic, not sure if I got lucky with mine not being *COMPLETELY* embalmed in cosmo or not, but it was effective, once that was all off, i hit it with a 0000 steel wool to finish any rough bits of finish, i left my dents in it, and any "mystery" stains (which by the way there are several) to me, they tell the story of the rifle in some way or another... so I left 'em. but after the sanding, a VERY light very quick (wipe on and immediately back off) of minwax dark walnut to give the cartouches and some grain a bit of detail, then rubbed the hell out of it with arrow oil. /Vault/Users/Cerberus/Photo/mosin restore/
a bunch of pics i took after the stain and while i was applying the handrubbed oil finish. (the murphys was there in case i needed to lighten it back up any)
And I'm starting to love that light blonde look you did there... very nice indeed!
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10-23-2010, 04:08 AM
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#70 | | Firearm Enthusiast 
Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: LA
Posts: 36
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Maximum1, that is a nice color, love it!
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11-19-2010, 03:02 AM
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#71 | | Firearm Enthusiast
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 96
| Refinishing videos
i posted pictures a while back but i dont believe ive posted the videos.
theres the main video. a few pictures and most of the info is in the description.
that one is more talking.
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01-28-2011, 07:36 AM
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#72 | | Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 3
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Serer With English Patch
[i t e m 4 t r a d e .com ]
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01-30-2011, 07:55 PM
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#73 | | Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 1
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Hi, do you still have your Nagant stock if so what kind oe shape is it in and could you e-mail me some pictures of it and what's your asking price?
Thanks beretta45cal@gmail.com | |
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02-21-2011, 02:47 AM
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#74 | | Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 2
| Original Stock Non-skid
An old army trick was to remove the old shellac, then re-apply a new coat of varnish as the base coat. On the second coat, mix in some saw-dust along the butt-stock and hand guards as non-skid
Birch almost has the same color as maple. Maple is a great stock wood, but warps far too easily and is almost white, not a good tactical color.
The Mosin Nagant's stock wasn't designed to be tactical, but in today's environment where any contrast becomes a problem, what choices do we have.
I love a walnut stock, but way too expensive. To fix this problem, I brought the Mosin stock to bare wood. I applied an "Ebony" stain (two coats). I was expecting the wood to be almost black, but amazingly enough, it wasn't.
For the varnish, I chose Cabot's Australian Timber oil, either the natural or the Jerrah Brown. I applied the base coat and let dry. I applied the second coat with saw-dust sprinkled in. Obviously, the saw-dust acts more like a non-skid, but also cuts down on the reflection and glare as in a polished varnish job. Reflection and glare is tactically a bad thing. The combination of the Ebony stain and the Cabot's Australian Timber Oil Jarrah Brown is almost like a dark Russian reddish brown.
Hunters against Hunger, P.E.T.A against Poverty, let them all eat meat!
J.W. Mac
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02-21-2011, 08:32 PM
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#75 | | Firearm Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 15
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Did you all remove the big round head bolt in the middle of the stock? This looks like it secures some sort of block within the stock. Also, can the barrel forearm band retainer clips be removed, or do you just work around them?
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02-21-2011, 08:51 PM
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#76 | | Firearm Aficionado
Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 556
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I removed the clips. The portion that holds them on is like a little spike, that goes almost all the way through the forearm. You will see a tiny hole in the other side, where it was drilled all the way through. Just be careful you don't snap off the spike. You might use a tiny drill bit as a punch, and tap it out from the other side. I think that's what I did. I can't remember for sure now. Some things get fuzzy after time. It's been several weeks since I did it.
Verne
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02-22-2011, 07:01 AM
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#77 | | Firearm Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goat roper  | I removed the clips. The portion that holds them on is like a little spike, that goes almost all the way through the forearm. You will see a tiny hole in the other side, where it was drilled all the way through. Just be careful you don't snap off the spike. You might use a tiny drill bit as a punch, and tap it out from the other side. I think that's what I did. I can't remember for sure now. Some things get fuzzy after time. It's been several weeks since I did it.
Verne | Good tip..worked great. Thank you
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02-22-2011, 05:54 PM
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#78 | | Firearm Zealot
Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: San Bruno, Republic of Kalifornia
Posts: 5,543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ram1hemi | Did you all remove the big round head bolt in the middle of the stock? This looks like it secures some sort of block within the stock. | that's the recoil lug bolt. it can be removed. you'll either need to make a tool or get lucky that the nut's loose already.
if you're doing this on a pre-war stock, i advise that you leave the screw-in sling escutcheons alone. you'll never get them back right.
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Badges? We got no badges! i aint gotta show you no stinking badges! | |
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02-22-2011, 05:57 PM
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#79 | | Firearm Zealot
Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: San Bruno, Republic of Kalifornia
Posts: 5,543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nagant9130 Hi, do you still have your Nagant stock if so what kind oe shape is it in and could you e-mail me some pictures of it and what's your asking price?
Thanks beretta45cal@gmail.com | taoqi was just a spammer.
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Badges? We got no badges! i aint gotta show you no stinking badges! | |
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02-23-2011, 06:06 AM
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#80 | | Firearm Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R5CYA | that's the recoil lug bolt. it can be removed. you'll either need to make a tool or get lucky that the nut's loose already.
if you're doing this on a pre-war stock, i advise that you leave the screw-in sling escutcheons alone. you'll never get them back right. | Thanks for the response. I was lucky...mine was loose enough to get off using a pair of snap ring pliers. I did decide to leave the sling pieces in place....they looked like they might be a bear to get out without bending them.
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