Old 12-10-2010, 08:56 PM   #1
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Pyrodex RS

As a replacement for FFg ?? Locally all I can find is the RS for my .50 Cal Percussion Rifle. Is this cool, or should I wait for something more appropriate. I was wanting to try out loads for ball, conical, and sabot. Is the sabot a waste of time ??
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Old 12-10-2010, 09:08 PM   #2
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I have used it for many years in my TC hawken .50. I use round ball 1:48 twist does not stabalize any thing else worth a darn.

Last edited by jerry; 12-10-2010 at 09:37 PM.
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Old 12-10-2010, 09:13 PM   #3
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Pyrodex RS is about as cool as it gets.....just remember though it takes 20% less pyrodex by volume. Meaning 80gr by volume of pyrodex is supposed to be equal to 100gr of black powder by volume. If I remember correctly.
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Old 12-10-2010, 09:29 PM   #4
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Quote:       Originally Posted by mouser868 View Post
Pyrodex RS is about as cool as it gets.....just remember though it takes 20% less pyrodex by volume. Meaning 80gr by volume of pyrodex is supposed to be equal to 100gr of black powder by volume. If I remember correctly.
Ummm no. You're thinking of Triple 7. Pyrodex is a volume to volume substitute.

Pyrodex P (FFFG) will give slightly more pressure because the powder is finer, so does real FFFG. Either one is suitable for a .50. I used round balls and conicals in my .50 but sabots were a crapshoot. That was when they first came out so maybe the newer ones are better. I had good results with Lee REALS and Maxi balls as well as round balls. Round balls are harder to work up a powder/patch combo tho.
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Old 12-10-2010, 09:42 PM   #5
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Thanks for the correction, my rememberer don't remember everything like it use to.
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Old 12-10-2010, 09:56 PM   #6
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Quote:       Originally Posted by mouser868 View Post
Thanks for the correction, my rememberer don't remember everything like it use to.
I know the feeling.
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Old 12-10-2010, 10:31 PM   #7
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The way I understand it is that RS is for rifle/shotgun. If you got pyrodex P you would be getting Pistol or small caliber rifle.
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Old 12-11-2010, 03:59 AM   #8
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A 45/70 case almost full of pyrodex is a good charge for a 50 cal. and is almost a 90 gr. Black powder equivalent charge.
RS is what you want...

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Old 12-11-2010, 05:21 AM   #9
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Quote:       Originally Posted by ouch View Post
The way I understand it is that RS is for rifle/shotgun. If you got pyrodex P you would be getting Pistol or small caliber rifle.
P works well in anything you want to put it in. A lot of shooters use it in 54's and 58's and claim better results than with RS. Me I use RS in everything including pistols. Mainly because P is hard to come by around here.
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Old 12-11-2010, 06:02 AM   #10
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It has fairly good shelf life too. Iv'e kept my can sealed in a standard ammo can. My current can has to be at least 4 years old. (I know, I need to shoot more) It seems to ignite well in cap locks. Last trip at the range, a guy was shooting his cap lock along side with his dad who was shooting a CVA inline. I think they were using Pioneer powder. The CVA was lighting it up. The kid with the cap lock had issues. I had to admit to him that he may have had some bad caps. Told him I never had an issue with mine using CCI#11's and Pyrodex.
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Old 12-11-2010, 09:02 AM   #11
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Quote:       Originally Posted by SwedeSteve View Post
As a replacement for FFg ?? Locally all I can find is the RS for my .50 Cal Percussion Rifle. Is this cool, or should I wait for something more appropriate. I was wanting to try out loads for ball, conical, and sabot. Is the sabot a waste of time ??
Let me share from my experience.
I have never had a problem with the Pyrodex RS. I have used the RS, the P and Triple 7 and have found that each has their place. As far as the "grains equivalent", I use the standard black powder measure that can be bought most anywhere. If memory serves me right, using the BP equivalent measure, 100 grains equivalent of Triple 7 actually weighs about 71 grains. Everything that I have read indicates that if you use the black powder measure adjusted to the grains that you desire, you are well within safe operating range.
I have a T/C Greyhawk with a 1:48 twist. It is a side lock. I use Pyrodex P because the finer powder works it's way into the channel to the nipple better and reduces the number of misfires. Because it is a little "hotter" than RS, 90 gr. equivalent is my max load in this rifle designed for 100 gr. max. Normally, I use 80 gr. equivalent Pyrodex P behind a .490 round ball and a .015 ticking patch that is treated with T17 bore cleaner. I believe it would shoot a conical bullet well although I haven't tried it.
I (had) a T/C Texas Scout with a 1:38 twist barrel. Another 100 gr. max rifle. I used 90-100 gr. equivalent of Triple 7 behind a green sabot with the .430 Hornady 200 gr. XTP bullet. Because of the Triple 7, I used the #11 magnum cap. That was also a very accurate load. That rifle would shoot the round ball, a conical and the sabot very well - except - any sabot above 200 grains wouldn't stabilize or group well because of the 1:38 twist. I used all 3 powders in that rifle w/o any problem.
I have a CVA Optima with a 1:28 twist. It is a 150 gr. max magnum rifle. I use 100 gr. equivalent Triple 7 behind a green sabot with a .430 Hornady 265 gr. FTX, ignited by a Winchester 209 primer.
IMO, nothing wrong with Pyrodex. The projectile depends on the twist of the rifling. Kentucky rifles with a 1:66 twist are round ball guns. Rifles with a 1:48 twist shoot best with round balls and some conical. Rifles with a 1:38 twist work well with round balls, conical and sabot up to 200 grain. Rifles with the faster 1:28 twist work well with sabots of any weight. 200, 230, 265, and even 295 Power Belts.
JMHO based on my experience.
I hope it helps.
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Old 12-11-2010, 12:51 PM   #12
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regular black powder is scarce because rules require it to be stored in an external storage area to public access. synthetic pyrodex does not.

to me, one's as good as the other
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Old 12-11-2010, 08:19 PM   #13
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All very good info guys !! Thanks for the heads up.
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Old 12-11-2010, 10:07 PM   #14
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RS is pretty good stuff. I've had good luck with it...
As for the sabots in your rifle, if it's slow enough for balls, it's likely not going to do real good for sabots. That's just my experience.
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Old 12-14-2010, 04:02 PM   #15
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Well, if the weather would cooperate, and warm up a little. How cold is too cold to shoot ??
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