Cap n Ball Revolvers @ Cabela's?

[jeffsenpai]

Some of the black powder revolvers look very nice at the Cabela's site, such as this one:

Cabela's -- 1858 New Army 5-1/2 Barrel .44 Caliber Revolver and Starter Kit

But I cannot find out whether or not the BP revolvers they sell are manufactured my Uberti, Pietta, or another. A few are distinctly mentioned, but the rest are not specifically described online. It also does not mention if they are steel framed or not.

I only want to know these things, so in the future if I choose to buy a conversion cylinder I will know the correct type to purchase!

[FS00008]

Those sure do look great :-).

Do they make conversion cylinders to fire Cartridges for BP Revolvers? If so that .44 Cattleman's Carbine interests me greatly! I'd really like to have one of those if they make conversion cylinders that can handle .44 Special and .44 Magnum.

And do they make those Carbines in .45? Would they be able to handle .45LC?

[jeffsenpai]

As far as I know, the 1858 Remington's and Colts have the conversion cylinder. These cylinders all fire .45LC ammo as well. I don't think they all have a conversion cylinder available, hence why I want to know the make of what Cabelas is selling.

[jimkim]

They have them at cabalas or you can check midway. My Colt is from cabalas it's a Pietta. If you do get a revolver and want to use the conversion cyl. make sure it has a steel frame.

[FS00008]

That's very interesting. Does anyone have any experience with those "Cattleman's Carbines" and conversion cylinders?

[reverend ron]

They are all Pietta. Most conversion cylinders cost more than the gun itself.Check your local laws. Some states such as the Peoples Republic of New Jersey don't allow a conversion.

[rondog]

I bought an 1851 Colt Navy at Bass Pro Shops, and it was made by idiots, IMO.

[jeffsenpai]

Elaborate Rondog? Poor build quality? Bad design?

[Kodiak32]

I have purchased 3 revovlers from Cabelas and they were all piettas. Two were the 1858 New Army and the other is the brass framed Colt 1851 Navy. I have had them over 2 years and no problems so far.

I really like the ease in which the cylinder can be removed on the 1858 New Army, just drop the loading lever and pull out the cylinder pin and the cylinder drops out. It makes the pistol much easier to clean.

I have been interested in the conversion cylinders also for the 1858 New Army, no info on how well they work. As mentioned, Midway Usa sells them and they also list user opions on them.

[rondog]

Originally Posted by jeffsenpai

Elaborate Rondog? Poor build quality? Bad design?

Most likely operator malfunctions, the gun actually works fine, and is nice and tight. I had high hopes of great shooting adventures with it, but I've yet to see where ANY of my shots have hit! Kinda discouraging, but it's not the guns' fault. I need to put a target in the center of a 4x8 panel of something cheap, and see where they're grouping. I'd hate to have to fight off an Apache raiding party with it, that's for sure!

[Dallas]

I have owned and fired a model 1858 7 1/2 inch barrel, with a brass frame for some ten years now. I love it and have never had a problem.

[Rex in OTZ]

I bought a used cap & ball Reb Army.44colt/Piatta clone in 1988
I still have "was my first" bought for $35 because of a broken main spring that was easy enough to replace.

I remember a old statement in the Pistol pages of Dixie Gunworks about brass frame revolvers will shoot loose over time from repeated fireings and quicker useing heavy load's

I have a 1860 Steel frame .44 that I had double charged the cylinder's
I dont recomend this even with the smallish charge spout on the flask to throw the charges I dump them in useing a old cartridge 30-30 case
and use 142gr hornaday swaged lead round balls, I have never shot the conicals thru a cap & ball yet and wonder how much better they are?

[stalebiscuit]

i want to get one, my dad has an ubertis .44, real nice

i want the cheapest one, just to mess around with (plus im broke)

[andrew cochran]

You can get them for $139 at cabels.

[dgray64]

Originally Posted by rondog

Most likely operator malfunctions, the gun actually works fine, and is nice and tight. I had high hopes of great shooting adventures with it, but I've yet to see where ANY of my shots have hit! Kinda discouraging, but it's not the guns' fault. I need to put a target in the center of a 4x8 panel of something cheap, and see where they're grouping. I'd hate to have to fight off an Apache raiding party with it, that's for sure!

Put up a good sized piece of cardboard (box) and staple a 9" paper plate to the center. Back off about 10 to 15 feet and using two hands to start, let fly. Once you figure out where you are hitting, you can adjust your grip, your stance and then your distance. My 1860 Army is shoots high at 15 yds, but drops to a reasonable hit at 25 yds. The 1851 Pieta Navy shoots on the money, at 15 yds, so since 25 yds is too far for most shooting, I adjust my aim from 15 yards and kill a lot of paper plates!!

I like the paper plate because you can easily see where you hit, its cheap, you can staple another right over it for the next round of shots. I usually mark my misses on the cardboard surrounding the plate with a pencil mark so that future shots with new plates have a clean piece of cardboard for backing. Enjoy your revolvers!

Dave

[OldTimer]

Originally Posted by dgray64

Put up a good sized piece of cardboard (box) and staple a 9" paper plate to the center..
..Once you figure out where you are hitting, you can adjust your grip, your stance and then your distance..
..I like the paper plate because you can easily see where you hit, its cheap, you can staple another right over it for the next round of shots. I usually mark my misses on the cardboard surrounding the plate with a pencil mark so that future shots with new plates have a clean piece of cardboard for backing.

Paper plates make great, inexpensive targets and come in a variety of contrasting colors. Try this: staple or tape a little dark colored "cake/dessert" plate or even a paper "bowl" over a standard 9" (or larger) paper plate for contrast--a bullseye, as it were.
I prefer marking the "misses" with a piece of wide masking tape. Thereafter, every hole is "new".
Your mileage may vary,