I know this should be a basic task. I have never really had a lot of scopes on any of my firearms. The ones I did have were already sighted in. If you are shooting , lets say high and to the right. Do you turn the adjustment down and to the left? Sorry for the dumb question.
Bob T
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One simple way (to me anyway), is to set your gun up on a steady rest, ie: sandbags, shooters rest, etc. and move everything around so your crosshairs are on target without any input from you. Carefully squeeze off one shot. Set the gun up exactly the same as before. Now use your adjustments to bring the crosshairs to bear on the bullet hole you just made and you should be extremely close, but you may have to make a few minor adjustments. I usually do this at 25 yds and then recheck at my intended zero range (usually 200 yds).
on all the scopes i have ever used, if u are shooting high and to the right you would turn the elevation knob (the top one) to the right and the windage knob (on the side) to the right as well.
I had been bore sighting mine on a street light head that is about 100 yards from my kitchen window, I look through the bore with the rifle steadied on rests and line it up with the head on the street light, then I get the reticle of the scope on the head of the street light. This usually puts me on paper, then I can make final adjustments from there. It's not an exact way, but it works alright.
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A tip I was put on by a member of my gun club, who had it from a former US Army sniper: start by cranking the windage all the way to one side. Then, slowly, click it all the way to the other, counting the clicks as you go. Divide by two, and crank back that number of clicks.
Repeat with the elevation screw.
The result is what the sniper called "a rough scope zero." At this point, you take the rifle to the range and follow toolman's directions. If you use a bore laser and realign the cross-hairs on the laser dot, you may save a few rounds of ammo. But definitely do what Toolman said, starting at the 25 yard line, the moving out to the fifty, and then to the hundred, then out to your optimum range, whatever that is for your rifle.
The scope's windage and elevation knobs have arrows marked "right" and "up," turn the knob in the direction marked "right" to move the point of impact right. Do the same thing with the elevation. And if you want to move the point of impact down, turn the knob in the opposite direction.
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I'd add, sight the firearm in with whichever ammunition you plan on using in it. As using different ammunition can and usually will change the POI (point of impact).
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When sighting in a scope, if you are on paper I do what toolman recommends. I sometimes find the most maddening thing is just getting on paper, even with a laser or doing a bore-sight as Roadie does. What my father taught me was to pick out a mark on the berm behind the 100-yd target and shoot at that. You can usually see through the rifle scope a puff of dust from the dirt, and that will tell you where the bullet is hitting. I find doing this is easier than aiming at the target and if you are off paper trying to figure out where it hiting. You then can hold the rifle in nearly the same spot adjust the windage and the elevation to the point where your bullet struck the berm. This usually gets me on paper in one or two shots. Good luck we all know how frustrating some rifles can be to get sighted in.
A tip I was put on by a member of my gun club, who had it from a former US Army sniper: start by cranking the windage all the way to one side. Then, slowly, click it all the way to the other, counting the clicks as you go. Divide by two, and crank back that number of clicks.
Repeat with the elevation screw.
The result is what the sniper called "a rough scope zero." At this point, you take the rifle to the range and follow toolman's directions. If you use a bore laser and realign the cross-hairs on the laser dot, you may save a few rounds of ammo. But definitely do what Toolman said, starting at the 25 yard line, the moving out to the fifty, and then to the hundred, then out to your optimum range, whatever that is for your rifle.
this finds the scopes true center. when shipped new, this is the position scopes are shipped in. when installing a used scope or one that has the initial adjustments changed this is the recommended procedure to start with. BUT, any slight deviation of the centerline drillings of the bases or slight misalignment of the rings will still have to be adjusted out, as well as bullet drop for a given range. this is an initial adjustment but not the final "zero".
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tack Driver
The scope's windage and elevation knobs have arrows marked "right" and "up," turn the knob in the direction marked "right" to move the point of impact right. Do the same thing with the elevation. And if you want to move the point of impact down, turn the knob in the opposite direction.
I dont know why this causes so much confusion for people at the range, but the adjustment reference is as you state. it moves bullet impact as specified.
Quote:
Originally Posted by toolman
One simple way (to me anyway), is to set your gun up on a steady rest, ie: sandbags, shooters rest, etc. and move everything around so your crosshairs are on target without any input from you. Carefully squeeze off one shot. Set the gun up exactly the same as before. Now use your adjustments to bring the crosshairs to bear on the bullet hole you just made and you should be extremely close, but you may have to make a few minor adjustments. I usually do this at 25 yds and then recheck at my intended zero range (usually 200 yds).
This is the very best procedure I know of and will save a lot of ammo. I normally set this at 25 yds at 1" to 1 1/2" low on center, then fine tune vertical and horizontal at 100 yds before moving further out since a 1/4" off at 25 yds turns into 1" at 100 yds. (4 clicks for 1/4" at 25 yds, if each click is a 1/4" at 100 yds)
