soo hit the range today, always have shot milsurps, cheaper, but i figured id try to winchester 180Gr softpoint and wolf 148Gr FMJ n'see how they shot.
well the first shot locked the bolt closed....i beat and beat and finally got it open..figured maybe its to heavy a load(winchester) for my rickity old mosin, so i tried the wolf..figured same grain as milsurps same bullet style, shouldn't be a problem...wrong..same thing..locked it closed....beat and beat and beat, then tried my surps..first few shot fine cycled fine...then as i kept shooting..id have to pull the trigger 4-5 times for the bolt to release the firing pin..eventually it got until it wouldnt shoot at all...
i clean it real good always after i go to the range, and have never had any problems like this before..did the factory loads ruin my bolt, or is it maybe just the trigger needs replacing?
Can you provide a little more info? Did you examine the casings? Was there a puncture at the base of the cartridge? I don't know the technical terms but milsurp casings are usually a lot thicker than new factory loads. Without knowing further details it sound like a shell lit off at the base.
Can you provide a little more info? Did you examine the casings? Was there a puncture at the base of the cartridge? I don't know the technical terms but milsurp casings are usually a lot thicker than new factory loads. Without knowing further details it sound like a shell lit off at the base.
the casings where intact, no cracks, the primer on the wolf looks like it got demolished, while the winchester looked normal.
Hard to say exactly , but it sounds as if the firing pin protrusion is not set properly with the screwdriver gauge...75 minimum , 95 maximum, any more will over compress the firing pin spring.This makes it very hard to open the Bolt.
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Hard to say exactly , but it sounds as if the firing pin protrusion is not set properly with the screwdriver gauge...75 minimum , 95 maximum, any more will over compress the firing pin spring.This makes it very hard to open the Bolt.
i pulled out my trusty firin pin measurin tool, and the pin protrusion was fine.
and the bolt opened fine with the surplus...though it took 4-5 pulls of the trigger...
I guess I'm not following you here when you say you have to pull the trigger 4-5 times to get the firing pin to release...If you close the bolt , and squeeze the trigger once, does the gun fire ? If not , check your trigger assembly and pins for proper orientation...
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I guess I'm not following you here when you say you have to pull the trigger 4-5 times to get the firing pin to release...If you close the bolt , and squeeze the trigger once, does the gun fire ? If not , check your trigger assembly and pins for proper orientation...
that would be the problem, i pull the trigger the pin does not release. bolts put together fine, so im geussing a trigger problem..
sorry for the confusion, i just had two problems at once(bolt locking on factory loads, and the trigger not releaseing the pin) which i was mainly wondering if the ammo locking the bolt was maybe the reason my trigger wasn't releasing the pin, ie bolt damage. but ill take alook at the trigger assembly.
I know this is random but do the numbers on the bolt and the reciver match? If they dont that might be where your problem is. and is there a differance in the amount of chamber pressure from the new factory loads and the mil-surplus?
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Anything said here is my PERSONAL opinion nothing more
that would be the problem, i pull the trigger the pin does not release. bolts put together fine, so im geussing a trigger problem..
sorry for the confusion, i just had two problems at once(bolt locking on factory loads, and the trigger not releaseing the pin) which i was mainly wondering if the ammo locking the bolt was maybe the reason my trigger wasn't releasing the pin, ie bolt damage. but ill take alook at the trigger assembly.
Fix the trigger problem first ,as it may be causing the second problem if the sear is jamming the bolt...
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I agree, it is not the ammo.
I'd bet if you looked closly on the Winhester box some where in fine print would be "Made In The Czech Republic." At least when I shot and reloaded it and S&B they were one and the same with box and head stamps being the only difference.
That ammo is a bit horsey though and within 100yds I'd not hesitate to shoot larger game with it out of a Mosin. Firing it in a Mosin with mechaical trouble would cause troubles though, IMHO.
yes all the numbers match, still hav'nt looked over the trigger(fell asleep) idk, i was figuring ammo to be a factor because it's never happened with surps, and i'v shot right around a 1000 rounds through it if not more, and have never had this kinda problem with the gun.
and the guy who asked about the pressures, im not sure, the surps obviously don't say and i haven't looked much into the specifics of the winchester/wolf ammunition. so i honestly don't know, but id imagine there would be a bit between the surps and the 180gr winchester.
after star'n the trigger assembly down, i found that the peice that releases the pin from the cocked position is lipped, the metal is a bit jagged, and definetly doesn't look like its sposed to...so this im sure is the problem.
maybe the winchester ammo was loaded to hot and forced the bolt back on it with enough pressure to bend it?
Not hardly , since the Bolt head is what locks it into battery as well as the Cocking handle against the Receiver...Check for bent or broken pin in Trigger assy and rule that out first...then the trigger spring and bolt stop (with sear surface) should be smooth and also tightly screwed to the receiver...Also , you may need to check clearances if the front and rear screws are too tight and the wood has shrunk , clearances may have changed.
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Moose, you beat me to it. I was going to suggest he check the action screws. I've read before about a recevier screwed too tightly into the stock affecting the action; but never anything as bad as this!
If I were in ekmcnei54R's shoes, I'd start by detail-stripping the rifle and the bolt, cleaning and oiling everything and looking for wear on the trigger sear and for correct firing pin setting (which he has done). Do any filing or part replacement that turns out to be necessary. Then, when the rifle is reassembled, when he goes to screw it into the stock perhaps he should screw the action screws all the way in, then back them off one turn, or maybe half a turn?
I know if you tighten a timney trigger to tight it locks everything tight on a mosin you can't even pull the trigger . I think yall are on the right path .
