[Doglips]

flash hole uniforming .... I seen these tools from time too time...I was looking at the flash holes on some brass I had laying around..looked ok too me...I have read some people talking about inlargeing the flash holes...for better ignition...makes sense...Guess it would get the corncob out of the flash hole as well .

So the ???????? How much brass work do you all do to your brass....Sizeing..triming...primer pocket debureing...Flash hole uniformening....are none of the above????? Whats the advantages of doing these things...what are the disadvantages??

I tend to size and trim....unless a primer wont seat right I dont bother to clean the primer pocket...

[dustoffer]

Well Doglips--I'm about the opposite of you in terms of brass prep, but since my customers expect accuracy, I take all the steps I can to insure they get the most accurate loads. Here are the steps I take (in sequence) with new brass, before I seat the first primer.
1. F/L resize
2. Trim to length
3. Uniform primer pockets
4. De-burr flash holes (inside)
5. Chamfer case mouth
6. De-burr outside of case neck

Is it worth it? I don't know as I haven't tried to work up accuracy loads without doing each of the steps.

[dustoffer]

Doglips--forgot to add, I don't outside neck turn, but that is my next investment-a case-neck micrometer and the associated paraphernalia to outside turn the necks to clean them up a bit.

[ruger22com]

On new brass I do everything.....after it is shot I only do:

1) neck size and pop the primer (I use a lee so I dont need to lube the cases)
2) run in corn cob for a couple hours
3) blow out with an air compressor (thru the flash hole)
4) reload and shoot again!

Then after every forth time I shoot it I:

1) FULL RESIZE WITH LUBE & pop primer (same die)
2) trim the length (I use a length gauge/cutter mounted on a mini-lathe)
3) chamfer inside and out of cut end
4) run in corn cob a couple hours
5) blow out with air compressor
6) reload and shoot again.

I reload (all lee dies and single stage press, with rcbs scale) in rifle calibers of 7mm rem mag and 30-06 spring plus .38sp in pistol.

I use unique powder in the pistol, and either h4350 or h1000 in rifle loads

[Bountyhunter]

I run the full gamut on my pistol and rifle cases. .30-06, .45 Colt, .45ACP

Deprime and FL size--same die operation
clean primer pockets
tumble in cob
every 5th loading, check length and trim.
deburr case necks
air blow each case to make sure that flash holes are open
Load rifle cases on RCBS Single Stage press individually weigh each powder charge
Load pistol cases on Dillon 550B progressive press

On my .45-70, since they are loaded only blackpowder, New Cases, I resize the flashholes to .09375 and debur inside. **Edit**When I drill the flashhole, I also drill a tiny dimple in the rim of the case that I fill with red nail polish to denote that these cases have enlarged flashholes.*** Then prime with Winchester WLRM primers and full length resize--same die. Load powder, compress powder, then load bullets and crimp. After shooting, they are deprimed and soaked in water and Murphy's oil soap until I get home to wash them and brush the insides and then tumble and clean them. I then reprime them and reload them, not resizing them as they function well fireformed.

I dont reload 9mm, .38/357, or 7.62x39 as I can buy them cheaper than I can reload them.

BH

[FROSTY]

Seems like a partial neck re-size works best in my ctg. guns...Deburred & enlarged flash holes are the way to go; at least with black powder ctg. loads. A 30 inch drop tube seems a little more consistant, with just about .060 compression when seating bullets.

[lefty o]

first time around the brass gets the works. recut and even out primer pockets, flasholes cleaned up, all cases trimmed same length chamfered in and out. without doing the works the old swede would not be able to get those 1/4" groups. plus i trickle the powder charges by hand , the only thing i dont do is neck turning.