Hi,
I'd really like tho know if anyone out there has had this problem.
I just got a new SA 9805 Super Match. I want to remove the opperating rod to clean the gook out of the bolt and regrease it. I can not for the life of me figure out how to remove the opperating rod. I have looked at the manual, and all the info I can get on the web, including photos. But for some reason my gun does not disassemble that way. I SM has a Douglas barrel that is larger in diameter than the regular. But I can't figure this one out. HELP!!
Glad I'm not in a firefight!
Thanks
Doc
SA's are notorious for stubborn op rod removal. my mid 1970's standard M1a is the same way. all i can suggest is to keep fiddling with it but do not force the op rod, ala strong arm and big screwdriver. i just leave my oprod and bolt in place. and saturate with degreaser. i really do not see the need for detail stripping most weapons, even if they cooperate.
Gyrene is our resident guro on this subject. hang in awhile and he will give you good info, also check the archieves in the M-14/M1a forum.
__________________
MOE! LARRY! THE CHEESE!
Life Member the Elmer Fudd Hunt Club
Doc - The op rod removes something like the M1 Garand op rod. Pull it all the way to the rear, there is a notch in the receiver rail to facilitate removal, and like Papa G said keep pulling upward and outward while jiggiling it forward and rearward. The operating rod guide on my Chinese M-14 is so loose the operating rod can turn outward up to 15 degrees while I am removing it (it still can shoot 459/500 as my friend did exactly that the first and only time he fired it in competition, and he had only fired 10 shots out of it before shooting it in the match).
It is very difficult, to remove the operating rod, because the operating rod guide connected to the barrel keeps it tightly aligned with the barrel and the receiver grooves. I wouldn't worry too much if you can't get it off the rifle, for now, it will shoot looser as time goes by.
If you really want to take the op rod off the rifle, then get a punch and remove the pin that holds the operating rod guide square on the barrel (do not make a habit of doing this, be sure to use the proper sized punch, and keep a new pin at hand, as you may need to replace the one you punch out). Even with the operating rod guide loosened, it is not easy to remove the operating rod, just go easy and do not get impatient. I wouldn't remove it more than once every 1,000 to 2,000 rounds, because as it loosens up, and removing it helps that process along, the accuracy of the rifle can diminish (like a 1/2 minute group may grow to a 1 to 1 1/2 minute group).
It can be adequately (not thoroughly) cleaned and lubed on the rifle, and the bolt can be properly cleaned and lubed without taking it off the rifle, as Papa G said.
Just remember you can't properly clean the rifle and you can't properly lube the rifle unless or until you disassemble it (called Field Stripping it). If you are trying to pull the operating rod out, you have already done what Springfield Armory, Geneseo, Il (commercial) recommends not doing, and I do not understand how they expect the M1A owners to maintain their rifles without doing that. It is a machine, and it needs lubrication (grease mostly, and a little oil), and cleaning to function as intended, and with the TLC that I am sure you intend to lavish on it, your M1A Super Match will be near flawless for a long time.
Hi y'all,
Thanks for the help. I thought I was loosing it (which in fact might still be the case).I got a real helpful responce from SA. They said that I needed to "break in" the gun.
It is brand new, but there was so much grease and gook in and around the receiver that it wouldn't cycle. I cleaned all that out with BC gun scrubber (which removes the hair from your arms too) and wanted to regrease the roller on the bolt BEFORE i shot the living h--l out of it. After reading all the good stuff you all put out, I thought you'd be the perfect folks to ask. Turns out I was right, you are! SO, thanks for all the help.
I'll be around here for the forseeable future. But I have to warn you that I'm not infantry, I'm a sniper. So watch your back doors!!
Thanks again......................
Doc. (USN '67 - '71) Semper Fi
I have the answer!!!!
I spent about three days fiddling with it, off and on.
Finally, I took two spent 7.62 casings and flattened the small opening
(where the bullet was) in a vise.
I now had two brass tools to use to work out the operating rod.
I just positioned the operating rod in the right spot ( the op rod handle in the middle of the windage knob).
You can feel your way to where the op rod is starting to enter the recess on the receiver.
I then used the two tools to wedge it into the recess then out of the track.
I succeeded in less than a minute.
Rick
I just posted the same problem using different terms, on another thread. My charging handel is this thread's OP handel. So am I to understand that in order properly clean the SA M1A you are to first fire at least 2000 rounds, in order to loosen up/ break in the parts enough to be able to properly clean the rifle?
BC Gun Scruber does work wonders, but every Range Safty Officer/ Fire Arms Instructor I know has a viceral hatred of Hopps #9 solvent or any other convenient method of cleaning a firearm. Is there some sort of gun consperacy at play. I am going to back to my cheep to own and easy to clean AK, the one rifle everyone agrees never needs to be cleaned.
I just got my rifle supermatch same as yours, went shooting once and loved thegun like no other. I will speak to my gunsmith about your problem. Did you call springfield to pick their brains? Dr. J
Okay, so I have this new M1A and I could not remove the Op rod following the instruction in the manual. Called Springfield Arms and was told that after properly positioning it to the rear I should use a large flat bladed screw driver and pop it off. I was cautioned to duck tape the surfaces first so I don't mar the finish. I think I'll just just a few hundred rounds through it first and then deal with it. The gal said they practiced in a class so they could instruct people on the method.
I was propmted to check this thread from an e-mail notification. I am glad to see I am not the only one having this problem. But still I really expected so much more from this rifle, especially due to it's reputation and price. So the best I have to go on so far is this:
Run at least 2000 rounds of .308 through the gun before it is broke in? The coast of that much ammo alone is almost as much as the gun was itself? Or from the customer service gal; wrap the operating handel and a screwdriver in duck-tape and pry it loose?
I have a guy at work who has a new M1A Scout Squad model with an 18" barrel who has the same problems, and we both agree our AR-15s' shoot much better.
Where was this thread before I spent over $2000.00 on the rifle, $300.00 on 500 rounds of ammo and another $150.00 on spare magazines. When I could have spent 1/2 as much on an AR-10.
Sorry to hear that you are disappointed with your M1A; you're the first guy I've heard say that. I'll agree with you on the AR10, they are an excellent Rifle, I used to have an original one (Made by AI) many many years ago.
I'm one of the majority, I believe, of those who are absolutely & utterly satisfied with their M1A's. (Mine's a Fulton "Peerless" custom special)
My satisfaction:
__________________
How can I 'Soar with the Eagles' when I'm working with such 'Turkeys'!
Yesterday I followed through and did the applied the duct tape, positioned the op rod, lifted up and applied a small amount of pressure with the flat bladed screw driver and the rod came off without a hitch. I thought it would be difficult to get back in, but it went in without a problem. No marring on any parts. It was not a difficult or damaging procedure.
I really am not that disapointed with the rifle. To be fair it only has a 16" barrel, and I am not using a high end ammo. To compare the balistics of a .223 to a .308 is an appels to oranges comparison. That being said; the best shot group I can get free hand with iron sights at 100 yards (this is a true 100 yard distance not a 25 yard target simulating 100 yards with a smaller target) is between 3 to 5 inches. I expected better accuracy.
I have both a 20", and a 16" AR-15, both of them can shoot 2" groups free hand, with the cheepest surpluss ammo I can find with iron sights at the same distance. I get tennis ball sized shot groups all day long with not that much effort when I put a scope on the rifle, "shanking" every 3rd or 4th round on a 20 round magazine.