pART 2 continued
To restore a modified or simply defective decocker/drop safety ya only need replace the following parts which are very cheap and available from Numerich gun works http://www.e-gunparts.com/productsch...00z52%20PISTOL
parts you will need;
Firing pin retractor/lock (the lil plunger mentioned in posts above) Item# 241800 price $8.50
Firing pin retractor/lock spring (unless ya are using a lighter spring, otherwise if this spring is too short or broken/over compressed the lock will not function correctly causing your drop safty/decocker to discharge the weapon)
Item # 241820 price $1.20
that’s it and in most cases your decocker should function correctly as well...
additional parts some may need to restore altered CZ52s
IF your sear has been altered ya will need a new one that is Item # 242070 price $ 16.05
IF your fireing pin has been altered it is Item # 241790 price $ 20.30 (I recomend just buyin this from MAKROV.COM as they have a better price for the original or only $25.00 for a machined one)
IF ya have a bad hammer due to incorrect modification or simply wear that is Item # 241850 price $21.40
IF your safty has been altered or is worn (rare) that is Iyem # 242060 price $16.25
O.K So now you have a working decocker, the two items most in need of attention are the Retractor/lock plunger and its associated spring, first completely clean the plunger and its spring next completely clean the pocket the plunger rides in and the firing pin channel itself now polish this plunger to remove the rough texture and any possible burrs from its sides and then the surface the small “hook” contacts (this hook is visible in front of the hammer on your frame ya’ll notice it lifts up as ya pull the trigger, carefully polish its surface as well, you will also need to polish the associated contact surfaces visible on the firing pin or I just simply polish the entire firing pin, now here’s where ya have a decision to make, assuming the plunger spring is in good condition and is not collapsed or otherwise defective you can either reuse it OR replace it with a lighter spring to further reduce trigger pull, this spring can account for up to 1.5 lbs of increased trigger pull!! Not always but that is the most I’ve noticed being attributed to it in various CZ52s.. I’ve used retractable ink pen springs
If you would like to make a lighter spring for your Retractor/lock plunger you can “tighten” up the coils on the ink pen spring by wrapping it tighter around a piece of stiff wire, or you can simply buy or scrounge a spring made of thinner wire which will fit in the plunger, if ya look at the plunger spring you will notice that one end is flared this is so they can use a slightly smaller diameter spring I’ve used several springs that are the same size as the inside diameter of the plunger without any problems but do make sure they are oiled otherwise the drag against the sides of the plunger can create a very slight increase in tension.
Ya can decide for yourself how far ya wanna take the trigger R&R if ya do replace the spring in the plunger make certain it still works correctly ya should not be able to push the firing pin forward unless the trigger is actually pulled completely also check to make sure it returns the firing pin AFTER the shot by (make sure gun is empty or slide is off the frame) for an empty gun pull the trigger fully to the rear and push the hammer forward to push the firing pin forward now holding the hammer release the trigger next release the hammer ya should hear a faint click as the plungers slanted surface cams the firing pin back into the ready position...
with the slide off ya simply gotta press the plunger with a pen or other object while at the same time pushing the firing pin forward then release pressure on the plunger and next the firing pin it should react the same as if the slide were mounted with a click and the pin visibly being moved back if not the spring is not strong enough and the gun is not safe to use.........
Now reassemble and see how much of a difference ya’ve gained… still want more? Then on to …….
STAGE 2 this will actually require disassembly of the pistol, BUT don’t worry this is one of the simplest guns to dismantle I’ve seen yet, there are already sources such as MAKROV.COM that show step by step details on disassembling the pistol so I’m only going to point to the areas that require attention again if ya run into a problem and need help feel free to post your questions or drop me a line, I’m not always able to answer e-mails in a timely manner however as I travel quite a bit so posting disassembly/reassembly questions here will probably get the fastest help..
O.K Now that ya have a pile of parts on your table…. The first step is simply a “primer” to get ya into the polishing frame of mind, see that rough finish on the face of the trigger itself? Well it doesn’t really contribute to the actual amount of trigger pull BUT it will amaze ya how much lighter your trigger “feels” if you polish that area after your done wipe it down with some “FLITZ metal polish” and it will be protected from rust for months, This is actually my first step when working over a double action gun…
READY SET GO… now let’s look at the hammer and sear, see those two lil corresponding shelf on each? See how course they are? That’s where all your triggers grittiness comes into the game, note the angle of each shelf these angles MUST be maintained at all cost, gunsmiths use a “jig” to hold these pieces in perfect relation to the stone but if ya take your time and have steady hands ya can do it without the jig, I’ve literally done thousands over the years this way….. Now lets get out the hone stones… oh yea here’s what your gonna need
THE STONES TO DO THE JOB…A set of ¼” ceramic stones fine grit, this set will consist of several 4 or so inch long stone with various profiles to make working over the CZ easier ya’ll want a square a triangle and a round stone, I personally use a set made by “Spyderco inc.” that consist of the above stones plus a heart shaped one, I think I paid $20 for the set bout 20 years ago but the price has actually came down they are available at most real knife shops and come in a very handy leather case…
A can of honing oil, this is very important in order to maintain a clean polished cut… its about $1.50 for a lighter fluid sized can
That’s it lets do some polishing…
Start with the hammer shelf, ya will see the area where it contacts the sear this needs to be perfectly squared many of them aren’t and this leads to an erratic trigger release ya will only want to go a max of .002” as the hammer is only case hardened, this step will eliminate that gritty feel, take your time and go slow after its done ya are gonna decide if ya wanna tackle a lil trickier step see how that rounded edge comes into the top of that shelf? This is where your actual trigger creep comes into play, now by cutting that down (it can be squared there is no purpose to it being rounded other than to simplify manufacturing) the most important part is to keep your cut at 90 degrees to the SHELF face ya just polished and keep it even and straight this can be reduced all the way down to within .030” of the back wall of the engagement shelf it doesn’t actually make contact at any point with any other piece so the case hardening doesn’t matter the height of this determines how far the trigger must travel AFTER it has engaged the sear until the sear actually slips off that shelf, taking it to .030” will leave ya very little trigger creep about 1/32” do not go any lower or ya will have a very sensitive trigger and as we are going to address trigger PRETRAVEL later ya don’t want it to get too sensitive if your leery ya can leave off trimming that shelf down until ya’ve had a chance to try the gun with just the polished surfaces….
Now for the sear ya are going to do exactly the same thing ya did with the face of the hammer shelf do not even consider cutting down the sear height it will only make the gun unstable and increase the risk of an unintentional “bump fire” just polish its face..
SEE PART 3