I have my 1918 Colt with the 1943 Remington Rand Slide and won't be trying to make it in to a match gun. I will shoot it for basic enjoyment so I would love to get a can of the $99.00 Military mix packs my buddy bought a few months back in the large tuna can. I know I won't find any and was hoping some here had some good sources on eqaul stuff. Thanks,,Rick B
Really?, my range could care less though they would like you to shoot brass cuz they save it and sell it. They can tell when i've been there cuz they gotta pick out the aluminum and curse me!
__________________ U.S. Army
1976-1979
237th Combat Engineers
Heilbronn, Germany
Just remember that WWII ammo in the sealed 'tuna' cans is corrosive. so if you shoot it, don't forget to clean it. My vote for good plinking ammo is S&B. Good Shooting!
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I told him straight up, "You are an idiot for bringing those two fists to this gun fight."
What is SOG's website? I dont mind cleaning the gun since I so that right away everytime I go shooting. I want atleast one tuna can worth before there all gone. Thanks,,Rick
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If I cant fix it,, It must REALLY be broken!
First, you can get NEW S&B for less than the "spam can" ammo (I have gotten it for as low as $6.90/box by case). The primers and necks are sealed with lacquer. Reloadable brass/boxer cases. This stuff will last forever, and the brass is of high quality for reloading. In other words, you get a lot of options.
Second, S&B is not like UMC, USA, PMC, etc. This is not range/target hardball. S&B velocities are @900 fps with 230 gr FMJ (as opposed to @825 fps). This stuff has more uses than just plinking...
Third, S&B is not "bargain" ammo. It seems to be the highest quality economy ammo; accuracy and consistency are comparable to American commercial ammo. I have had 0% failures of any type with many different calibers. The .45 has always fed in every gun we have tried (now 7, incl. three Springfield 1911A1s and a Colt). It always goes "boom." That has not been my experience with the spam ammo.
Rick,
I can't find anything with the SOG website. Their phone number is 1-800-944-4867 and their e-mail is: soginc@go-concepts.com.
Hope that helps. Good Shooting!
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I told him straight up, "You are an idiot for bringing those two fists to this gun fight."
Hey Rick,
since you don't mind shooting mildly corrosive, go to: www.centerfiresystems.com They have the 756 round 'tins' for $89.97...at least they are brass case and boxer primed...700 pieces of brass ought to be a good enough reason to justify a progressive Dillon,LOL! Good Shooting!
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I told him straight up, "You are an idiot for bringing those two fists to this gun fight."
Exactly what part of the ammo is corrosive? The primer or the powder. I always thought primer, but Erics post about mildly corrosive with boxer caps got me to thinking.
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God Bless.
From Tejas -- formerly known as Texas.
It IS the primers which are corrosive. Both berdan and boxer primers can be corrosive. Older smokeless powders are not corrosive in of themselves. For example, Alliant Bullseye and Unique are about 100 year-old formulas. They are not very clean by modern standards, but they are not corrosive.
In the early days of metallic cartridges, the priming compound was highly corrosive (I believe a form of mercuric chloride). Over time, various improvements have been made for a number of reasons:
1) Most of the corrosive chemicals found in older primers seriously corroded and weakened the brass cartridge cases, making reloading less effective. Reloading metallic cartridges was a common practice until the early 20th century (and has been again since WWII).
2) Need to clean after each use. As firearm finishes and construction have improved, the need to clean a gun constantly has disappeared. For many years, the corrosive primers were not such a problem, because traditional-blued black powder pistols (for example) require constant cleaning. When the designs improved, the primers began to improve.
3) Relatively few firms manufacture primers (worldwide). When the commercial market demanded non-corrosive primers and the industry made the change, it made no economic sense for the big companies to manufacture two lines of primers.
As you can infer from these factors, boxer primers are less likely to be corrosive than berdan primers. The corrosive/semi-corrosive distinction exists because the priming chemicals changed from highly corrosive to less corrosive sometime between the wars in the US and most of Western Europe. I seem to recall that American commercial ammo and components were non-corosive by the mid '50s. Even today, some foreign military ammo is still manuyfactured with "semi-corrosive" primers. This sort of like being "a little pregnant;" primers are either corrosive or not.
I had always been told it was the primer, something about potassium or something in them. All the adds for these WWII .45 rounds state: mildly corrosive...Now, thanks to this forum, I'm in the know. Thanks!
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I told him straight up, "You are an idiot for bringing those two fists to this gun fight."
