[CrazyIvan]

Well, must be something electrical. Replaced the voltage regulator, replaced the baterry, replaced baterry cables (cause I broke one taking it off, lol).

It turned over, and then stopped turning over. Some things work, but others don't. I have an electric fuel pump back near the tank, in addition to the mechanical, engin-mounted pump, and the electrical doesn't run. It doesn't turn over. But, turn signals and lights, and all that work.

Checked the fuses, all good.

I can only venture to guess that there is a break in a wire somewhere...UGH, I hate wiring and electrical crap. LOL. I'm a mechanical type guy.

P.S. RR: thanks for that little electrical outline. I like to learn new stuff.

[toolman]

In the process of changing everything, you may have pinched a wire somewhere and melted a fusible link. These are smaller dia. wires with thicker than normal insulation designed to work like a fuse. On a Ford, they attach to the starter solenoid mounted to the inner fenderwell. These are easy to check, just look for a burned spot or gently pull on the wires and see if one seperates or feels like its stretching. Also check all of your connections, especially if everything was working other than the batt. running down.

[Rufus Rhastus J]

Quote:       Originally Posted by toolman

In the process of changing everything, you may have pinched a wire somewhere and melted a fusible link. These are smaller dia. wires with thicker than normal insulation designed to work like a fuse. On a Ford, they attach to the starter solenoid mounted to the inner fenderwell. These are easy to check, just look for a burned spot or gently pull on the wires and see if one seperates or feels like its stretching. Also check all of your connections, especially if everything was working other than the batt. running down.

Also, you might check and be sure the wires are secure (especially the little wire or wires) on the starter solenoid. Starter wire tight? Starter securing bolts tight? What about the test I suggested to check for a short? Any arcing? Don't forget the ignition switch, they wear out too and, you can get them from napa or any other auto parts store and reinstall your existing lock set. Time to get the test light out.

[CrazyIvan]

Quote:       Originally Posted by Rufus Rhastus J

Also, you might check and be sure the wires are secure (especially the little wire or wires) on the starter solenoid. Starter wire tight? Starter securing bolts tight? What about the test I suggested to check for a short? Any arcing? Don't forget the ignition switch, they wear out too and, you can get them from napa or any other auto parts store and reinstall your existing lock set. Time to get the test light out.

Thanks guys, I'll try these suggestions when I have some time to get into it...I'm just affraid something is wrong behind the dash...and dammmm, those are a PITA to get out on those old mustangs...but there is a spagetti of wires back there, I wouldn't doubt something is shorting out.

[Rufus Rhastus J]

Well, I hope you are wrong. Besides, the odds are in your favor that there is just some little something you over looked. Don't dispare Grasshopper! A grain of rice may be small but, get it stuck between your gum and tooth and it feels like a cinder block!

[CrazyIvan]

OK, I'm lost.

Swapped out the voltage regulator. Swapped out the Starter Relay. Wires seem fine. New baterry is holding its charge, not draining like the old one. Put new baterry cables in. It began to turn over then suddenly stopped....now it makes no sound. All fuses are fine. Electric fuel pump works, all other electrical items work. But will not turn over.

Could it be the starter solenoid? PFFT...this is ticking me off...I hate electrical, haha.

[ezearln]

While this may sound simplistic, it seems to me you are losing your ground have you checked to see if you have a solid ground ? If not perhaps you can run a braided grounding strap between your engine block and the vehicles frame? Worth a look.

[GoodAim]

Ivan PM me I am a certified auto mechanic. I will talk you thru the steps of the phone if you would like. I love fixing old cars. I have restored about 10 cars to date. Not including customers cars.

[ArkansasHunter]

SilverRun if an award was to be given you would win as long as you can drive the vehicle to Auto Zone.
Thats what I'd do LMAO.

Now C I recheck your engine ground wire since you changed out the engine, may be thats the problem... And if the car has been down long and the battery is 4 years old that very well could be your problem...A.H

[CrazyIvan]

new baterry last week, car has only been sitting for maybe 2 weeks since this problem started

[Fokker]

Well if you could find an Autozone with someone properly trained in using the Bear(portable tester); they can check for shorts or bad grounds in the system.

[JBS]

CI...Just go and change your clothes, You've obviously got Murphy in your pocket. That should fix it. If you need any more help, feel free to ask. JB

[ArkansasHunter]

Yea Cuz I got to hand it to ya, you can fix anythang...LOL...A.H

[JBS]

Yeah, Cuzzin', I'm purdy durn smart. I used to be real smart.

[Deersniper]

If it has hooters or wheels it is going to give you problems. How about the starter, the armature could be gone. Hey Rufus, know any thing about Jeep Window regulators I've got to do two, both front windows. Ha Ha. Those 351 C's are great motors.

[toolman]

CI, put the car on jackstands or ramps, have someone hold the key in the start position, crawl under the car and whack the starter with a hammer. Keep in mind that "whack" is a technical term used by old ASE Master Techs, such as myself, and the definition isn't normally revealed to civilians. This means to give the starter one or two light-medium taps, a one-handed hold is generally preferred as the two-handed "Hank Aaron" method tends to break stuff. If it immediately cranks over you need a new starter. A.H. also has a valid point, a loose ground will drive you nuts. BTW, does this car have headers or stock exhaust manifolds?

[CrazyIvan]

It's a 351C 4v with racing cam/lifters and a 650 Edelbroch, Holly Headers and Flowmaster 3-1/2" Dual pipe. I know it's probably going to be a hassle getting that starter out of there, but if ya gotta do it, ya gotta do it.

[Fokker]

I don't know, most old school FR domestics that I've ever dealt with, the starter was always easy to get out. It was just damn heavy. Just remember kids, don't forget to disconnect the battery before removing it. You just might end up welding your ratchet to the torque converter.

[toolman]

Ahhhh, the plot thickens! If the starter has been on the car for any length of time and doesn't have some sort of heat shield, it's the most likely, well fried, culprit. Headers are a starters' worst nightmare. If you do have to replace the starter, I'd recommend either wrapping the headers with thermal wrap (best solution),or what I did on my '49, wrap the starter (lazy-man solution) with thermal wrap and fab. a heat shield for it as added insurance. It's also a good idea to use the metallic thermal sheathing to protect the starter cable around the headers. FWIW, cheapie reman. starters aren't the best bet with headers either-spring for the better grade\brand. Good Luck!

[just_a_car]

The starter on the 351C with an FMX is fairly easy to access and is held on by two bolts.

If it is very old, the brushes may be very worn out. Toolman's also got a good point about protecting your starter from excess heat.

Easy way to check to see if it's the starter or starter solenoid (which it's not, since you replaced that {you called it Starter Relay}) is to bridge the gap between the solenoid posts with an insulated (notice the emphasis) piece of metal; a plastic-handled screwdriver works well for this. You will bridge the battery directly to the starter... there will be sparks, but hold it. Here's a quote from another website:

Quote:      

Next you want to see if the problem lies in the starter motor itself. Looking at the back of the solenoid, you will see two big post electrical connectors. What you want to do here (TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL -- PARKING BRAKE ON!!!!!!!!!!!!!) is grab a big screwdriver or a pair of insulated pliers. Touch only the plastic or rubber handle. You want to take this tool and short across the two big post terminals. Be prepared for some sparks, but hold the tool up there until you make a good connection. What you are doing here is connecting the battery directly to the starter motor, WITHOUT engaging the solenoid. So what should happen is that the starter motor will spin but will not crank the engine. It should sound like a regular electric motor, no gravelly or strange noises. If it does not spin or sounds really bad, have it rebuilt. If it works like it's supposed to, the motor is good so move on to the next step.

Reference: Starter Troubleshooting

Hope that helps... there are many, many websites on how to troubleshoot this problem.