[Rufus Rhastus J]

That sounds like a good idea. Remember, Sherlock once said: "After you have eliminated everything that is possible, that leaves only the impossible to check!" The point being, check each item separately to discover the villain. Don't be surprised if the new starter relay is bad, it happens! Yes, jump bot sides of the relay (you could use one side of a pair of jumper cables). If the starter turns, then the relay is bad or you are not triggering the relay when you turn the key. A test light would help you here. Clip the clip on ground and the probe end into the connector for the key switch. Turn key..probe lights-okay. If you have two wires on the relay, the second wire is for the neutral safety switch. They have been known to fail. They are not expensive. You can check it by just removing the wire connector and jumping both connectors-turn key-probe lights-okay. All that can be left is wire from battery solenoid to starter, is it connected tightly? If the starter still will not turn and all the other items have checked out as I have described, then the starter is the problem. They do break often. If the headers/exhaust is very close, as in less than 2" from the starter, it is possible that exhaust heat has caused, or at least, contributed to your problem if the starter is found to be bad. There are any number of ways to shield the replacement starter from the exhaust heat. I know Chrysler had a factory starter shield but, I don't know if Ford does. I guess a phone call could help there. Good luck, I hope I have helped you a little. RRJB

[CrazyIvan]

Quote:       Originally Posted by just_a_car

The starter on the 351C with an FMX is fairly easy to access and is held on by two bolts. If it is very old, the brushes may be very worn out. Toolman's also got a good point about protecting your starter from excess heat. Easy way to check to see if it's the starter or starter solenoid (which it's not, since you replaced that {you called it Starter Relay})

Actually, I was talking about the starter relay...It isn't under the car or anywhere near the starter. It is the 4-terminal doo-dad that is mounted above the voltage regulator. I have seen it called starter solenoid, starter relay, ignition relay...the box the new one came in says Starter Relay/Solenoid... The baterry cable positive connects directly to it as well as other various wires, those that go to the fuses most likely.

Here is a picture of one, a 3-post one, rather than my 4-post, but...you get the idea.

Thanks for the added comments, I'll try them this weekend.

[ezearln]

Yes that is a starter relay, your Solenoid is mounted on or in your starter, if you do the starter test as before described you can tell if it's the starter or the relay, a solenoid is an electical device than performs a mechanical function. In this case it is what causes the gear set in your starter to "Kick out" and engage the flywheel of your engine and then retract upon starting (as long as you're bright enough to release the key after the engine goes vroom vroom LOL). It may very well be your starter but I'd still check the grounding strap/wire between engine and frame.

[CrazyIvan]

Well, put in a new starter today...nothing. Was poking around in the engine compartment and noticed a bundle of wires in a place they shouldn't be.

It appears that when I installed the new voltage regulator, I did not move everything out of the way. One bundle was caught on the alternator fan and it chewed 2 wires, ignition wires no less...PFFT!! I am usually really good about moving things out of the way of that stuff, brain fart I guess. Well, my car has a new starter, was not completely difficult to get out, but was a pain to get back in because the headers ran right across it and to get the upper bolt in was a PITA. I used a 3-foot extension bar with a UV-joint adapter to go in from the front of the engine compartment to get to that bolt and get out, but was very difficult to get it back in.

Replaced the terminal-to-starter cable, as it was trashed. I also put a heater hose over the wire, because it ran uncomfortably close to the headers. I need to do that to the fuel line, to stop after-run evaporation in the fuel line near the engine.

So anyway, mystery solved.

Anyhow, I tied the 2 frayed wires back together, correctly, and it turned over, but then it wouldn't stop turning over unless I unhooked the baterry. Lost again on the long road of grease-dom.

[just_a_car]

LOL, glad to hear she's back on her feet CI!

[CrazyIvan]

Actuall JAC, it's not. It turns over, but the starter won't disengage...dunno why. The wires are just as they should be. Time to call the pros, I suppose.

[toolman]

After it sarts turning over and you release the key, try unplugging the wires to the small terminals on the starter relay, if that doesn't stop it, whack the relay with a screwdriver or hammer handle, If you've been cranking on it for a long time, it's not uncommon for them to stick.

[ArkansasHunter]

Please forgive me for laughing, but that is funny CI LOL...A.H

[Neanderthal]

When testing an alternator, keep it simple! Put a voltmeter on your battery-car not running. Should be 12+ volts. Leave it on the battery and start the car. If it reads about 14.2 volts or so your alternator is working. If it still reads 12+ your alternator isn't. Sounds over-simplified, but it works!