No no no, just buy either a LMT/CMT M16 BCG, or a RRA or Stag BCG. Don't get fancy with this stuff. Those I listed are quality groups that will serve you well. For what you wanting/needing, they won't serve you any better. Now, if you really want one, it's your money. Just saying, if it were me, I wouldn't.
No no no, just buy either a LMT/CMT M16 BCG, or a RRA or Stag BCG. Don't get fancy with this stuff. Those I listed are quality groups that will serve you well. For what you wanting/needing, they won't serve you any better. Now, if you really want one, it's your money. Just saying, if it were me, I wouldn't.
Don't listen to this guy, he doesn't know an AR from an AK How's your 20'' build coming along Pred?
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Man, I have no idea what I'm going to do. Part of me wants to build a SAM-R clone, part of me just wants to build two old SP1 clones, then part of me wants to build up an M4 and a standard 20" build. I guess I'm going to just have to build them all. And Silent, in all honesty do what you want with the BCG. But I've always said the BCG is the heart of your rifle. If it's not of good quality, or reliable, it doesn't matter what kind of barrel you have. A bad barrel won't keep the gun from going bang, however a bad BCG will. Now, I'm sure that either of those two BCG's you linked to will work fine. But again, it's kind of like you wanting a DD railed forearm. Will it work? Yes. Do they make good stuff? Oh yeah. BUT, for what your wanting, it would almost be a waste of money simply because it won't serve you any better then one half the price. Same thing with the carrier groups.
Well, my thoughts, a standard 20" upper is capable of head... uhh, hitting small game at 300 yards. And frankly, past 300 yards, I'd want a .308, or something larger then a .223 anyways. So, is spending the extra money on the SS barrel really worth it? I mean, a standard 20" upper, free floated, two stage trigger, and something like a Super Sniper 10x40(I think thats right) scope would serve me very well as a quality, accurate, sniper.. uhh, small game hunting rifle.
And Silent, in all honesty do what you want with the BCG. But I've always said the BCG is the heart of your rifle. If it's not of good quality, or reliable, it doesn't matter what kind of barrel you have. A bad barrel won't keep the gun from going bang, however a bad BCG will. Now, I'm sure that either of those two BCG's you linked to will work fine. But again, it's kind of like you wanting a DD railed forearm. Will it work? Yes. Do they make good stuff? Oh yeah. BUT, for what your wanting, it would almost be a waste of money simply because it won't serve you any better then one half the price. Same thing with the carrier groups.
Hey Pred don't think I don't take what you say into thought. That is why I ask so many questions to you so I can get your input. Hell you have influenced my lower and upper purchase more than anyone else. That is why I asked so much before I bought what I did.
The only reason for the DD rail is because buying it WITH the upper is cheaper than buying one down the road separate.
Well, my thoughts, a standard 20" upper is capable of head... uhh, hitting small game at 300 yards. And frankly, past 300 yards, I'd want a .308, or something larger then a .223 anyways. So, is spending the extra money on the SS barrel really worth it? I mean, a standard 20" upper, free floated, two stage trigger, and something like a Super Sniper 10x40(I think thats right) scope would serve me very well as a quality, accurate, sniper.. uhh, small game hunting rifle.
Oh you'll see, I just have to start hording parts. I have had a Stag Lower with nothing on it for too long.
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Oh I know Silent. I also know that what really kills people who build AR's are the add ons. A base gun itself is not that expensive. But once you start adding on grips, another stock, forearms, forward grips, optics, 2 stage triggers, trigger guards, lights, lasers, toasters.... it can really start to get expensive.
well i figyred after reading the thread a bit i would coment on the fluteing thing. being a pipe fitter and welder. when i would have to move a pipe i would heat it up on a certain side and it would go in the oposite direction.now you can take a piece of square tubing and do the same thing but the square tubing moves faster when heat is applied to it. so i see the only reason for fluting is to take some weight off the barrel it will not stiffen that barrel up any if anyone has a fluted barrel try it with a gunrest and a dot on the wall. place the gun in the rest and put a laser booresighter in the chamber then pass the torch around the barrel(don't cook the barrel just warm it up) you will notice the dot move then try it with a regular barrel it's gonna move just as much i think.to me the fluting should just cut back on weight and help cool the barrel down and that is good if your not fireing round after round .
Oh I know Silent. I also know that what really kills people who build AR's are the add ons. A base gun itself is not that expensive. But once you start adding on grips, another stock, forearms, forward grips, optics, 2 stage triggers, trigger guards, lights, lasers, toasters.... it can really start to get expensive.
Yum Toast.
A question on the M16 Bolt group Do some company's call them auto Bolt carrier groups
I found one that say's M16 auto carrier it looks the same as all the others.
I know technically the M16 bolt is an "auto" part but is there truly a difference in one labeled auto and one not?
Notice the difference? And yes, some will call them full auto groups. Don't be fooled though, it is not illegal to put one in an AR, nor do you have to provide any forms to buy one.
if anyone has a fluted barrel try it with a gunrest and a dot on the wall. place the gun in the rest and put a laser booresighter in the chamber then pass the torch around the barrel
I know he said not to cook it, but please don't do this with any of my guns...
(don't take offense to that please, tommy, just a "jest"...)
(I really don't want you to do that to my gun, though. )
Silent,
Just to make sure... I think I remember you ordering a stripped lower. These uppers you are posting are not kits, just uppers... Don't forget about the lower parts kit and stock. Have you already gotten that stuff?
Last edited by at4rxj; 11-06-2007 at 08:32 PM.
Reason: Automerged Doublepost
hold the thing way away from the gun. i didn't mean put the flame on the barrel.you can heat the barrel with anything really a hair dryer too will work.all you need is really hot air. and a little torch will blow hotter air faster not enough to melt nuthin .
That should give you an idea of what it looks like and how it will come together.
I haven't even started looking at glass yet. I'm not throwing another variable into the equation until the rifle is built. I know my second one will be much easier.
Well, with what you've put up, your minimum (before shipping) is up to $780 if you choose the upper that is $425; not including the charging handle, as there was no link.
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