[FutureMarine9]

i have today off due to a snowstorm and decided to clean my .22 so i assembled the cleaning rod with the brush at the end and when i tried to push it through it seemed like it was to big even though it's supposed to fit .22-.223 and i dont want to ruin the rifling...is this normal or am i doing something wrong

[BPierce]

A new brush will be quite tight in the bore but it sounds as if you are new to cleaning a .22RF. If so, there are some things you should keep in mind. Doing so will retain the accuracy of your .22.

#1- 22 RF guns need to be cleaned rarely. Far more damage is done by over cleaning than by under cleaning.

#2- If you have a aluminum cleaning rod, particularly a jointed one, throw it away and get a brass, steel or coated rod.

#3- Never clean your gun from the muzzle. If you have a gun that can't be cleaned with a rod from the breach, use a pull through. You can easily make one from a length of weed wacker line.

#4- It's rarely necessary to use a brass brush on a .22RF. I do so only if cleaning without one fails to restore accuracy or there is something I can't get out any other way.

#5- It can take several boxes of ammunition through a cleaned bore before accuracy returns to it's best.

Keep in mind that the rifling at the muzzle is the most important part for accuracy. Forcing a new brass brush down the muzzle with an aluminum rod is almost certain to degrade accuracy to some extent.

Hope this helps

[FutureMarine9]

thanks a lot for the help...yea i am a newbie and this is some good info just one more thing how often is too often or just enough?

[Ron AKA]

Quote:       Originally Posted by BPierce

If you have a aluminum cleaning rod, particularly a jointed one, throw it away and get a brass, steel or coated rod. Forcing a new brass brush down the muzzle with an aluminum rod is almost certain to degrade accuracy to some extent.

I'm curious as to what you have against aluminum. I would expect it is not any harder than the brass, and certainly softer than steel.

Ron

[blaster]

supposedly aluminum can become imbedded with grit. I just wipe mine off before use.

[toolman]

FWIW, get yourself a .22 cal. BoreSnake, it's the best thing ever invented for cleaning rimfires and you don't have to worry about messing up your rifling.

[.22guy]

Get a boresnake and a patchworm to clean out what the boresnake leaves behind. An oily patch on the patchworm, a dry one and you're done!. Unless you are storing it then I would skip the dry patch until you are going to shoot it again.

20/20 Concepts shooting accessories

[BPierce]

The problem is not the aluminum but the aluminum oxide that forms on the outside (scratch any aluminum and you will find it shiny under the oxide). Aluminum oxide is an abrasive. Even oiling it doesn't stop the abrasive action. As said above, wipe any rod to remove grit. I don't have much experience with coated rods but always suspected the coating might become embedded with grit.

I have seen guns with badly eroded rifling down in the bore shoot just fine but nearly invisible imperfections at the muzzle can lead to surprising inaccuracy.

[DWARREN123]

A .223 centerfire bore is slightly larger than a .22lr bore and the brush being new it will be tight.

[samuel]

Quote:       Originally Posted by DWARREN123

A .223 centerfire bore is slightly larger than a .22lr bore and the brush being new it will be tight.

A centerfire bore(the hole that is drilled before the riflings are formed) is the same as the rimfire.The centerfires started when a group of gun guru,s decided to develop a centerfire for the rimfire barrel and finally came up with the .22 hornet in the 1920,s.Winchester latched onto it and commercialised it.The cartridge was developed two years before a commercial barrel was developed.The bore is .220",and rimfires had .002" riflings.This was deepened to .223" riflings for the hornet and you can still buy .223"bullets.As the hotter cartridges came along they developed the .224" bullet and.004" riflings. sam.