I went to Sportsmans Guide today and got a .30 Cal can of .30-06 in Garand Clips in bandoleers.
1970s production, "KA" headstamped. Brass-cased, Boxer-primed, reloadable, 150-grain, full metal jacket. 8 rds. per stripper clip, 48 rds. per bandolier. 192 rds. per .30 caliber can; 4 bandoliers per can. Muzzle Velocity: 2,910 F.P.S. Muzzle Energy: 2,829 ft.-lbs.
$60.00
But this is what I figure. 24 garand clips @ $1. ea = $24.
1 .30 cal can @ $10. = $10. So $34. $60. - $34 = $26. / 192 rds = .135 per round. Thirteen and a half cent per round. Not bad for .30-06.
Doesnt really matter if its corrosive or not. I shoot lots of corrosive in my mausers and mosins. And others. Just have to clean the rifle a lil different when done shooting.
Should have done your homework. CMP.s ammo is 192rds on enbloc clips for $50.00 or a 768 rd case for $200.00.Useing corrosive ammo in a bolt gun is one thing but I wouldn't use it in a gas gun. You will have to do a complete strip down of the Garand including the gas cylinder
Everyone has all these horror stories on here about corrosive. I use hot soapy water and wash all the parts down. Then I clean the rifle as you normally clean it. I never have any problems with corrosive ammo. I shoot it in Garands, Springfields, Mausers, Enfields, Mosins, you name it. Its pretty simple. If Im not going to shoot the Garand for a while I clean exactly what Mooseman said to clean no matter what I have been lighting off through it. Listen to that Mooseman he knows what he is talking about.
Last edited by Capt'n Mil Coll; 04-04-2008 at 12:20 AM.
You should remove the gas cylinder and clean under it. Removing it alot will cause wear to the splines on the barrel resulting in a loss of accuracy over time. Everytime you remove the action from the stock on a Garand it takes approx 40-5- rds shot through it to get the action seated in the wood before accuracy returns. See why I cant understand why you would want to use corrosive ammo? If there was nothing else available I could understand, but CVMP and other companies has non corrosive ammo avalable
I agree with Orlando. Shoot the KA in your '03. Clean it well. Don't get lazy. I can show you some pics of a M1903 I bought where the barrel wasn't cleaned before it was put away. It'll bring tears to your eyes.
Capt: The corrosive salts are water soluble. Oil won't do it. I stick the barrel of my 03 in the toilet and pump water up through the barrel with a tight patch on a cleaning rod. I have a large quantity of SL 42 and Den 43 left from the days when they were $2 a box. Too much trouble to shoot in my M1. Flush the toilet first.
Everyone has all these horror stories on here about corrosive. I use hot soapy water and wash all the parts down. Then I clean the rifle as you normally clean it. I never have any problems with corrosive ammo. I shoot it in Garands, Springfields, Mausers, Enfields, Mosins, you name it. Its pretty simple. If Im not going to shoot the Garand for a while I clean exactly what Mooseman said to clean no matter what I have been lighting off through it. Listen to that Mooseman he knows what he is talking about.
Welcome to G&G Hydraulic. Yup been shooting corrosive ammo for years. My bores are all like new. Except the ones I bot with dark bores to begin with.
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Shoot all the corrosive ammo you want, buy it all up.Leaves the good stuff for the rest of us. Ever wonder why there arent alot of older Garand barrels left? Sure some just plain wore out but corrosive ammo and improper cleaning played a bigger role. If you do use it just be careful in the Garand, it takes alot more cleanup in a auto gun than a bolt. Good luck
I carried an M1 Rifle for two years, '61-'63, before getting the M14. The chronic problem with the M1 Rifle, was that young troops, not knowing nor caring, coned out the rifling at the muzzle, by using the issued steel cleaning rod. We'd sit around the barracks after range time, sawing the rods in and out of the muzzles. We were much more interested in the Sgts. inspection than whether the steel rod would cone out the muzzle or not. Accuracy was quickly lost. I learned early on to get a 7x57 case, (any bottle neck 7mm case will do), cut the base off the case and put the mouth of the case into the muzzle of my M1 Rifle. That made a cheap bore guide that helped to protect those last critical mm of rifling.
At the range, nobody worried about corrosive/non-corrosive issues. The rifle cleaning was begun in our shower rooms, which were large communal showers with shower heads all around the walls. We took the broken apart M1 Rifles into the showers (less wood) and got plenty of hot water and soap into everything, scrubbing the steel as we scrubbed ourselves. Bring the wet rifle parts back to our bunks, we dried all and then cleaned again with solvent, drying and finally applying a thin coat of oil. An M1 Rifle cleaned like that always passed inspection.
