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Old 10-20-2008, 12:48 PM   #21
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why dont you just get a sheet of self adheisive cork?
i like 5 minute fixes
over needing power tools and in the case of accuglass days.
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Old 10-20-2008, 09:34 PM   #22
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I've allways heard that to get the best accuracy you want your barrel to
be floated, not touching the stock or handguard anywhere. My Finnish
M39's do this with small brass or metal shims under the front or rear
of the receiver where it screws together.The barrels on all my swiss K31's
were floated when they were made,you can slide a dollar bill under the barrel all the way up to the receiver. They shoot excellent.Make sure you
post how this cork method turns out.It sounds like it would be alot quicker
than removing wood to float a barrel.
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Old 10-21-2008, 04:57 AM   #23
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Quote:       Originally Posted by kerriganm49 View Post
If your going to use silicon sealer, then use the high temp stuff from the Auto supply stores. If you want to float your barrel then that is another story. Shimming the receiver is the way to do that. Small brass and tin shims will allow the barrel to not come in contact with the forearm thus let the barrel move freely somewhat, after each shot is taken. I use a dollar bill to slide under my Mosin barrels and when it will slide from rear band spring to front band spring without catching, then she is good to go. There information on line about doing this, do some searching, and you'll find it. If I had a camera, I take a photo or two of my Finns to show where the shims go. You'd be surprized how much this will do for a Mosin's grouping!
Think aluminum can stock would work at all?

TCA
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Old 10-21-2008, 05:32 AM   #24
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there's a good use for all those beer cans at TCA's range table....on another topic, i saw my buddy's new toy, an original 1903 springfield sniper, and it's floated, supposedly from the factory, the stock is so perfectly cut, that there is the exact same amount of space evrywhere, and the stock is perfectly fitted to the receiver....that's first one i've seen that is THAT balanced from factory....that or it was maybe rearsenaled, or refitted for later day use....not sure, it was like that when his friend got it from mil-surp auction.
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Old 10-21-2008, 06:43 AM   #25
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Quote:       Originally Posted by Mike82 View Post
there's a good use for all those beer cans at TCA's range table....on another topic, i saw my buddy's new toy, an original 1903 springfield sniper, and it's floated, supposedly from the factory, the stock is so perfectly cut, that there is the exact same amount of space evrywhere, and the stock is perfectly fitted to the receiver....that's first one i've seen that is THAT balanced from factory....that or it was maybe rearsenaled, or refitted for later day use....not sure, it was like that when his friend got it from mil-surp auction.

Mike, Who is the Sam Hill gave you permission to talk about 1903 Springfield sniper rifles in this forum?! That is like drivin' a Cadilac to a Volkswagen convention.

BTW, ddrrrrooooolll! Love my 03A3s
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Old 10-21-2008, 06:47 AM   #26
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hehe...i'm sleepy, so pardon this next outcry....

GAWD....quit making new bold titles of threads in the mosin forum....I am tryin to sleep, and when i refresh and see lil black words, it's like monk trying to straighten the sprinkles on a cupcake and someone keeps throwing new ones on every time he gets em all lined up./........-cries-, i'm so sleepy....
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Old 10-21-2008, 08:45 PM   #27
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FYI the dollar bill trick doesn't prove your barrel is floated effectively. If you tap the end of the stock on the bottom and it hits the barrel you aren't "floated." The handguard has to be able to rest on bipod or arm or range bag or whatever and not come into contact with the barrel.
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Old 10-22-2008, 12:48 AM   #28
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I've done the cork method to three of my Mosins and they have all improved in accuracy. I get it from Checker Auto in the valve material section. Cork works good and so does the black valve material.
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Old 10-22-2008, 02:29 PM   #29
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hmmm, what's a more effective sniper? a cadillac or a volkswagen? guess it depends on what decade....we had some shotty cadi's in the 80's LOL
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Old 10-30-2008, 08:54 PM   #30
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I used JB Weld to bed my 91/30. I think it worked fine. I found this method on the website, boxo'truth. I recently bought my first Mosin Nagant. It's a 91/30. I cleaned her; and, finished the stock with a few coats of tung oil. Two weeks later I went to the range. I shot everything I aimed at, even out shot another mosin, m44. I don't know if the JB Weld made the difference. But, I was pleased. I also own sks, m1, ruger, +handguns. I love the Mosin 91/30, very fun to shoot.
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Old 11-01-2008, 05:01 PM   #31
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JB Weld? So as opposed to 'floating' the barrel you 'bed' it? FNG here, so sorry if I misunderstand. Care to describe your method?
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Old 11-02-2008, 01:00 AM   #32
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keeneyr and generoll- WELCOME TO G&G !! Don't forget to post your mosin by model to the "Roll Call" thread !! Thanks guys...
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Old 11-02-2008, 04:34 PM   #33
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Quote:       Originally Posted by generoll View Post
JB Weld? So as opposed to 'floating' the barrel you 'bed' it? FNG here, so sorry if I misunderstand. Care to describe your method?

Sorry about the self quote, but I truly am curious. Anyone actually know the answer? I just wanted to give this thread a bump to keep it visible.
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Old 11-02-2008, 04:53 PM   #34
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im using a strip of cloth... i guess its the same.i have really good fit tho so i may not need it.
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Old 11-02-2008, 05:44 PM   #35
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Generoll: Check the box o truth. I think no one wants to explain it again. Hope this helps.
Educational Zone #75 - Bedding a Rifle Stock - Page 1
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Old 11-02-2008, 06:53 PM   #36
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^ LOL !!
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Old 11-02-2008, 07:10 PM   #37
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Generoll: Check the box o truth. I think no one wants to explain it again. Hope this helps.
Educational Zone #75 - Bedding a Rifle Stock - Page 1
Got it. Thanks.

Now it's off to the hardware store.

Gene
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