[k8cca]

I got a really ugly Rom M44 and was thinking about doing the refinishing thing. Is easy off and Tung Oil the best way to go? Any thoughts, I don't want it to look like new, but just want to clean it up, it's oil soaked now, not to many dent or dings, just ugly.

THANKS!

[Dale]

Easy Off is a good way to go.

If you have a LOT of grease worked into the grain and if the grain is a tight one (hard wood) it may take several applications.

Just hose it off good between applications and scrub it with warm soapy water after the last coat. and then rinse.

I always spray my stocks outside and I found that the oven cleaner would dry too quickly for it to work properly so I covered it with Saran wrap between coatings.

I find that, to get the real deep stuff out acetone does a good job.

If you use acetone PLEASE use it outside! It's highly flammable as well as having noxious fumes. No smoking is a must.

Wipe it on....let it see for a few seconds (it vaporizes quickly) and wipe it off.

If you have a large tub and have the whereto, boiling water does a good job getting the surface grease off but that method is one pain in the buttinski.

Stock Doc turned me onto a trick to take minor dings, etc. out. Simply put a damp rag over the area and place a iron (on steam setting) on the area for a few seconds. The steam raises the grain and the ding. That might take two or three tries but general works.

Deep cuts and dings, however, may never come out totally.

Before putting the oil on take 220 or finer sandpaper and sand lightly in the direction of the grain (usually the length of the stock). If you have any cartouches you want saved steer clear of them when using the iron or sanding.

Tung or boiled linseed oil is the way to go.

When I do the linseed oil I take a clean and relatively lint free cotton rag and wrap it around my first two fingers (much like we did when we spit polished our boots in the military) and tilt the can to moisten the fabric. Then rub it in a small area moving it outward to spread the oil thin enough not to gum later. Let dry about 24 hours between coats.

Two or three coats is all I do and you can then decide if you want to 000 or 0000 steel wool it to a smooth surface with some sheen.

Good luck.

[Snakebite]

Dale pretty much hit the nail on the head as far as cleaning and degreasing. Thats how I did mine but I just wanted to mention one thing. You might want to consider using rubber gloves when working with the easy off. I ended up with some of it on my skin and it burns like crazy. I had to use the garden hose to spray the stuff off my skin!

[Indy]

k8cca
I use purple power which is a degreaser you can buy at WalMart or Lowes. Sometime the brand name is different, but it works the same. I have always tried to avoid oven cleaner.
I put the cleaner in a plastic squirt bottle and apply it to the rifle. I have a deep sink in the utility room where I clean it. Scrub it with a brush. I run the hot water and rinse off the cleaner. It may take several applications, but it works good. There have been times where I took the stock to a car wash where they have the high pressure sprayers. Squirt on the cleaner, brush it, and then spray it with the high pressure sprayer.
After the stock is clean and dry I steel wool it to smooth the surface. Then apply about three coats of Tung oil on the stock and finally several coats of Johnson's paste wax. The wax helps repell water and protects the wood. (Auto wax works as well)
Additionally, I apply very light grease between the metal surfaces and the stock. These old rifles seem to oxidize between them.
Remember all the military surplus ammo is either corrosive or should be considered corrosive. As I said in an earlier post, I mix a 50-50 solution of household ammonia and water. Run a soaked patch with the solution down the barrel when you are done shooting. Wait a minute and then clean with normal solvent. Don't forget to wipe the bolt face with the ammonia too.
Indy

[Dale]

I'm gonna have to try that purple power stuff, Indy. It sounds like a less caustic way to go.

Thanks for the tip.

[k8cca]

Thanks for the info guys, it sounds like I am right on track. Spent last night with the easy off and 4/0 steel wool afterwards. Guess I try the iron trick tonight. I'll post pic's after I get it finished. I did find a recipe on the net last night that the US military troops used way back when they had wood stocks, 1/3 linseed oil, 1/3 turpentine, 1/3 beeswax. From what the gentleman said, after several coats and alot of rubbing, looks just like a professional solder completed a pure linseed hand rubbed finish. I am looking forward to getting this complete. This M44 shoots really nice, has almost perfect blueing and maching sn#, the stock is just really ugly. I hope the iron removes the dings, which there are very many of.

THANKS!!! Got to love the Mosins, although now if does not have that KGB cosmoline smell. Guess I need to get another one, if I can only find a M91/30, my life will be better!

[k8cca]

Hey guys, it came out great, need to figure out how to post these pics. I decided to not do the steam on the dents, as I did not want it look like it had been refinished, just cleaned up a little. I ended up using Boiled Linseed oil for around 5 coats, finished with a mixture of 1/3 linseed, 1/3 turpentine, 1/3 beeswax. It lookes really great and not refinished at all. The only abrasive I used was 0000 steel wool. I am very happy with the results! There is a gun show next weekend and I am sure that more Mosin-Nagants will follow me home!!!

Did anyone catch the History channel last night? Nice show on Russian arms, but they never mentioned the SKS, which surprised me. Good peice on the Mosin however. Lot's of history!