Varnish....YES. Burns hot....VERY HOT! STINKS! Metal casing.NOT AMERICAN. You do understand I hope. Somethings may be cheap and that is what you can afford.But you can do much better with many other brands.If you like your 1911 feed it some good food so it will last.
I have used Wolf .223, .40, 9mm and .45 and have had zero problems with it. In fact I just attended a rifle school and shot 1200 rounds of Wolf ammo. That put the total of Wolf ammo through my rifle at over 7000 rounds, and I have had zero problems, zero malfunctions. I have heard that if you get the gun too hot the laquer will melt into the action. Having heated an AR-15 up to the point of not being able to hold the handguard, I have never had that problem. I have also fired the 9mm through full auto MP-5's and have had zero problems. Yes there is better, more expensive ammo out there, but for the money the Wolf is tough to beat.
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Work sucks, I'm going to the range...
I use the Wolf for practice in my 1911,it's worked fine for me. Even used it in my .460 Rowland conversion and it cycled most of the time,that with a 24# spring.
Not reccomended... Ruger's R&D dept. says that autos sent back to them with problems (shooting Wolf ammo) usually have chamber problems and firing pin freeze-up from the laquer and residue expelled from the case. I will only shoot Wolf ammo in Com- Bloc weapons, (SKS's Makarovs, ect.)...
Wolf is the only brand ammo i've personally witnessed a squib from. I'm a Dept armorer and i've seen a lot of factory ammo shot. Only with Wolf have I seen a bullet stuck in the barrel due to lack of powder. This was their new .40 S&W stuff. I'd say avoid it if possible.
After sighting in 10 rounds, I turned it over to my nephew. Hearing the coating horror stories. I cautioned him to let it cool and not to rambo it. I was standing right there when after the 45th round the casing got stuck in the chamber. Needless to say it ended range day that week.
Easy enough to get out, Flood the barrel with lacquer thinner then a few taps with a brass rod. It came out. I was lucky.
Dirty, smelly and jammed a S&W tactical solid -- thinner down the bore and a rap on a dowel rod. Still use what I have left just to get rid of it (.45 and .223).
The Wolf Match Target .22 is great, but I don't think I'll get any more center fire. I keep an eye out at several local shops for ammo specials.
At some point, I plan on reloading, so that's another reason to use US brass.
this is my $.02....if the rifle gets to hot the lacquer melts??? hmmm, wolf is standard Com-bloc ammo...there Ak's get pretty hot in FULL auto...ever hear a russian soldier complaining of melting lacquer these part 50+ years??
i've only shot the 7.62x29 in my sks and Ak's...probabaly close to 20,000rd these past 6 years...no problems yet. Been shooting the .45 thru my 1911 this past year..about 1200rds so far.. no problems yet.
cant comment on teh other calibers..never tried them..but i got better results with wolf 45 over PMC..what i normally use to shoot.
Some brands will, some won't. I've got a box of Wolf .45 I can't seem to get rid of. I bought it to shoot thru a Ruger P-90. The first round jammed about 3/4 of the way in the chamber and wouldn't budge. Racked the slide for about 10 minutes before it finally pulled out.
Bought a Taurus Tracker .45 (revolver) last week. There is a chamfer in the cylinder to keep the rimless cartridge from falling completely thru (if you don't use the stellar clip). The Wolf ammo will go in the cylinder, however it won't go in far enough to allow the cylinder to close. The rim hits the body of the gun.
The local sheriffs department uses GLock .45's. They have used Wolf ammo at times, apparently with no problems.
I recomend trying every different kind of ammo you can in any given gun. that's the only way to find that sweet brand. (w/o reloading) If it don't work, don't buy it ever again & no one will hold it against you. Simple.
"SWIFT,SILENT & DEADLY" U.S.M.C. 1st Force recon m.o.s. 0321/8652/2111 (1975-1981)
