Quick question on cleaning a 10/22: Hoppe's No. 9 then Break Free CLP, or just Break Free CLP? First complete tear down, bolt out, about 2000 rounds of Federal Champion Bulk and a few hundred American Eagle through it since purchase in late September. To date, have used Hoppe's No. 9 then a light oiling with Hoppe's lubricating oil. Am having some FTE issues, more than I'd like. I suspect the complete tear down was overdue, and that the oiling is attracing too much crud and preventing smooth cycling. Can I go with just the CLP? Do I need to buy some kinda teflon dry lube? It's a 10/22 RPF, stainless, synth stock, unmodified.
When to Clean a rimfire is a subject that has many opinions.
Many clean the bore only if the accuracy is going away, others like a clean gun and clean much more often. That said, it is up to you. Most will clean the action more often. I like a clean gun?
I Use hoppes 9 to clean every thing, Very lightly oil the bore
I use gun scrubber synthetic safe, and spray out the receiver and the bolt to remove all the hoppes and then spray with a teflon or silicone lubricant. To leave a dry film. Be careful using sprays if you have a scope mounted, makes a terrible mess on your lenses if it gets on them.
Also Gunscrubber, use the synthetic safe, the regular old Gunscruber can take the painted finish off the reciever.
every now again I will Use the gunscrubber to clean out the trigger group. a little drop of oil on the pins, a lilltle tw25b (kidd grease or white lithiun) on the hammer & sear, and good to go.
CLP, some like it, some don't , I use it for a quick clean at the range, I use separate cleaner, lube,and protectant on the bench at home. another personal choice.
Last edited by danvilleusa; 12-25-2008 at 11:48 AM.
Thanks, Danvilleusa - appreciate the reply. I'll get me some Gun Scrubber. You're right about the many opinions, I've read a bunch of totally different ones so I turned here for advice.
I am one of these anal retentive types who cleans a gun after it has been fired. I use Shooter's Choice. On my 10/22, I have drilled a hole in the back of the receiver so that when I take it apart to clean, I can run a rod from the chamber end. I also lube things with 10-30 Mobile 1 synthetic oil.
On the other extreme, some just use a little Break Free on the bolt and run it for ever without major cleaning.
I too clean more than most. The hole in the receiver is how I clean mine also. from the breech is always preferred if possible.
Also a boresnake or one of the pull through cleaning kits are nice. For the person that does not want to drill their receiver. Or just be real careful cleaning from the muzzle. Use a good 1 pc rod.
I have been told my whole life not to use automotive oil on my weapons do to sludge build up and it would not allow the bolt to work freely in cold temp's so I never have .
I guess if your a paper puncher its differant but they also say animals can smell petrolium base products . I don't have any proof that these things are true just words from my veitnam marine dad , so I put stock in it . Also I have never heard of drilling holes in receivers to clean the gun, to each their own I guess but if you did that to say a hump back belgium browning you have just killed the value buy at least half in the mind of a collector I realize we are talking about 10/22's here but I wouldn't want a newbee to think it cool to drill the receiver on his guns. There is also the structual integrity issue when you get up to bigger calibers say a browning BAR in 308 that could be a death sentence it the receiver blew up in your face. 2 cents
Personally, I feel many newer gun owners can take cleaning to the arena of overkill. It is not necessary to disassemble to the greatest degree possible a .22 semi-auto rifle or handgun every time you go shooting.
I do clean the bore with the Hoppe's #9, run a drying patch or two through it, and give it a light coating of 3 in 1 oil for storage and rust prevention. I wipe down the gun with a cotton cloth made slightly oily via 3 in 1 oil for the purpose of cleaning off dust and finger print residue as well as to give rust protection to the exterior metal. Then I place the gun in a quality pouch or case. I do not leave them exposed on a rack.
Once a year I will go into greater disassembly, cleaning, and oiling.
I live in the Texas Panhandle where this process serves me well.
i just sprits a little rem oil on all the moving parts and shove a cleanings stick down the barrel and its good you dont have to clean EVERYTING on the gun they are a tool ment to get dirty! lol
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Just as I said in the first answer I give, Many different opinions.
Of course, I think I'm right, but, so does the other guy,?
some say overkill on cleaning?? I think it is caring for your firearm. Clean firearms malfunction much less than a dirty gun, the action needs to be somewhat clean to function reliably. but this is just my opinion.?
Good luck shooting and have a lot of fun, shooting and Cleaning your gun. You will figure out what works best for you.
Last edited by danvilleusa; 12-29-2008 at 02:51 AM.
I think I would rather invest in a boresnake than drill the gun. Of course, mine's an older walnut stocked model with the original box and sales paperwork, not some mistreated orphan from a show.
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It's about time I offered a range report - I used Hoppes No.9 to clean after a bolt-out strip, then dry rags, then Break Free CLP.
Never was the action smoother.
I shot 100 rounds of CCI Mini-Mag, 100 rounds of Winchester Super X. Zero FTE/FTF. Seriously. Zero.
I shot 20 rounds of American Eagle - one FTE resulting in a FTF.
All shot with the Ruger factory mag - I've taken my TI 25 round out of the mix for now.
Man, I got some frustrating feed issues before. I've decided that it was the result of cheap Federal Champion or cheap American Eagle + Hoppes #9 followed by *too much* Hoppes Lubricating oil.
Solution:
Clean with CLP. Spend a little more (okay, percentage-wise, a lot more) for quality ammo.
Hey, in addition to the above data, every round (out of 100) of the Winchesters sounded like "CRACK! CRACK!" But some of the CCI Mini-mags sounded like...muffled duds...and my groups were better (shooting off-hand, 20 yards indoor) with the Winchester. Love some comments on that.
Interesting post. Just got rid of a Mark II and got me a used 10-22 yesterday. Stainless with a black composite stock, looks like it came from the factory, anybody know? Anyway, went to Ruger's website and downloaded the disassembly/reassembly instructions and thought it was pretty easy. I thought it was dirty, especially around the breach area and the extractor pit. I was raised to take care of my stuff. Always been told you won't shoot the barrel out of .22 in one lifetime, so maybe it doesn't matter if the bore is clean. That Winchester Super X sounds good. Where did you buy it? 22 ammo is getting expensive too.
I got the Winchester Super X 22 (long rifle plated round nose 40 grain 1300 FPS) at Wal Mart for $6.47 per 100. The same thing at my local Big Five is $10.50 per 100.
I also picked up some Super X 37 grain hollow points 1330 FPS for the same price, haven't shot em yet.
They were totally out of any bulk .22 ammo and had no idea when they were getting more. I went ahead and bought all the Super X they had on hand, cause I figure there's zero chance of the price ever going down.
I clean all my guns with Hoppes 9 after firing and lightly use gunscrub to get rid of nitro solvent. Then I use Remington Rem Oil with teflon spray lube to lightly coat all metal surfaces. This spray oil is very light and works like a charm I highly recommend it. Its also cheaper than other oil per ounce. As far as drilling in the reciever, I dont do any permanent mods to any firearms I own (with the exception of the pistol grip mod I did to my Saiga .223, which I consider to be incorrect in its 'sportsterized' configuration. This rifle performs flawlessly, has a 4-5 lb butter trigger that I created from a Romanian take off trigger, and is one of my most favorite firearms to shoot. sorry to get off topic)
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Hoope's can gum-up an auto-loader. Also, it dissolves powder, but not copper deposits. You should use shooter's choice.
22's don't usually have a problem with copper fouling. Hoppe's also makes a cleaning solvent now for auto loaders if it is a problem. Wipe all the solvent out, or rinse with a little gun scrubber and it should not gum up.
Shooters choice is a fine product, but so is Hoppe's #9
Cleaning a 10/22: CLP only? 
Teach
