I just got a 1934 91/30. I am new to the whole Mosin Nagant world, but I would like to add a scope to my new baby. My friend got one about a month before me but he did the whole drill and tap and add a new handle to his. I like how his has a HUGE scope on it and can look up someone's nose from a mile away, but I don't want to permentaly modify mine. I still like the iron sights and I would like to be able to go back to them if I feel like it. So far all my research has pointed me to a scout scope mount that uses the rear iron sight mounting. What are your thoughts on the scout scope setup? Does anyone know what the "best" brand is for the scope mount that is the most stable? So far I think I like the S&K scope mount, it looks the most stable to me. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated!!!
no. it uses the pin at the front of the sight leaf and brass set screws at the rear. there's also some adjustment screws on top to set elevation and keep it from moving around. i haven't shot more than a couple hundred rounds with mine on the m39, but it's holding nicely so far.
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You could remove the rear sight assembly. It may have a pin or two holding it in place. It is most likely soldered in place as well. It will slide forward towards the muzzle. The dovetail groove iren't wide enough I don't think for conventional scope rings, as I ran in to that problem. So I bought some high rise .22 rings, and they fit the scope great. There is enough clearance to remove the barrel bands and handguard. And, it is a completely reversible procedure. I bought an ATI stock for mine. Despite the "no gunsmithing" and it being a "drop in" stock, I had to inlet some room for the spring on the interruptor, and for the tang to seat properly, as well as some of the side wall as it was creating pressure points on the barrel. So you can experiment with that one on your own if you'd like. You're probably better off "floating" the barrel in the wood stock, or shimming the receiver assembly and "corking" the barrel as well near the muzzle with a slight bit of upward pressure where the fore end cap is at. This link is an easy tutorial for corking. http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/edu63.htm As for "floating" the barrel, take a piece of paper, and run it beneath the barrel and anywhere it catches or binds up, needs to be sanded down. Use a socket that fits in the barrel groove in the stock and some 120 grit sandpaper or something. Sand a little at a time, checking. I would cork it first, and do the paper test to see if you really need to get out the sandpaper HTH, good luck. Don't forget to post pics of this baby, and sign her up in the roll call thread.
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Last edited by Iron_Colonel; 06-17-2009 at 02:13 AM.
yeah. he did ask about the most stable scout mount setup. that's it. no doubt about it. the direct mount to the dovetail is the cheapest, easiest and most solid mounting solution.
thanks for pointing it out, Colonel.
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the 1934 will not have the pins holding the sight base on, it will be silver-soldered on. You will need to take it to a competent gunsmith and let him heat barrel and sight base so to melt the silver solder, then base will slide right off. The pre-war soldered bases have been known for having an almost perfect cut dovetail, unlike the war-era ones, dovetail on them can be all outta whack. I would still suggest using a Leapers Mount on the dovetail unless you really just wanna use the scope rings.
the 1934 will not have the pins holding the sight base on, it will be silver-soldered on. You will need to take it to a competent gunsmith and let him heat barrel and sight base so to melt the silver solder, then base will slide right off. The pre-war soldered bases have been known for having an almost perfect cut dovetail, unlike the war-era ones, dovetail on them can be all outta whack. I would still suggest using a Leapers Mount on the dovetail unless you really just wanna use the scope rings.
lol I think you might be right about the outta whack part. Mine didn't look perfectly straight. Or maybe they just didn't seem straight, because the first time I ever shot it it was all over the place. I think that was because the stock was so tight around the barrel. But yes, a good gunsmith ought to have that off for you in no time, unless you feel comfortable tackling a project like that. Or the entreprenurial machinist could machine grooves on the sides of the rear sight and attach a scope to it that way. That would hold a zero But that is also assuming scope rings with a wide enough base could be had too.
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Thanks for all the info!! does anyone have any pictures on how the darrells mounts work, like how to install them? What about the S&K mount? I do like the idea of taking off the rear sight assembly outright to mount a scope but since i have a pre-war rifle i don't want to undo the solder. I want to be able to mount a scope but also completely reverse it so i have the original rifle back.
unsoldering it won't stop you from putting it back on. they just used the solder as a loctite. it's much easier to remove than it might sound like.
on the darrells, you drift the pin holding the sight leaf out and use the pin to install his. then tighten a few setscrews. it's simple, but does have more parts that can give problems compared to mounting directly to the factory rail. unless you were installing the mount on a m39 or some other rare rifle, i'd go ahead und unsolder the stock sight mount.
i have both setups and am really happy with both, but prefer my leapers mount direct to the factory rail. it's dead-nuts simple and cheap.
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I would agree. If you don't feel comfortable unsoldering, a gunsmith can do it. It would be just as easy to reinstall if there are no pins holding it in place. It is as solid as it gets.
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So if i have a gunsmith unsolder it, it is possible to go back to the original by just putting it back on? is any soldering required to put it back on? and taking it off and putting the rear sights back on, will that affect the sighting of the iron sights if i don't mess with the front sight?
So if i have a gunsmith unsolder it, it is possible to go back to the original by just putting it back on? is any soldering required to put it back on? and taking it off and putting the rear sights back on, will that affect the sighting of the iron sights if i don't mess with the front sight?
Good questions,I don't recall ever hearing of anyone ever putting there rear sight base back on. I know that if you unsolder copper tubing it is difficult to fit back together unless it is heated up enough to melt the solder when refitting,or sand all the solder off. How much will it cost to have a Smith remove the sight base? If cost is a factor it may be less expensive to use a scout scope mount that does not require the sight base to be removed,and avoid the whole resolder if you sell it process.
However if you want your scope as low as absolutely possible,the dovetail
mounting process will get you there. Post pics of your rifle when your done
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you should be able to get any leftover solder off with a triangular file if it doesn't want to go back on, but i doubt that you'd have trouble tapping it back on once it's off.
i wouldn't bother to pay a smith to remove it. if you don't have a propane torch or a friend with one, you can get a map gas torch and the bottle for probably a quarter of what the smith would charge to do it.
the base is a tight fit on the rail and is pinned. it'll go right back where it was to begin with. no adjustment needed.
do a search and read the scout scope thread (that should have been made sticky a LONG time ago) it'll have the info you need to take that sight base off.
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Just try to keep as much heat away from the barrel itself. Heat up the sight and base, but be sure to remove the flip up part, and the spring so the spring isn't compromised or broken due to heat. Mapp gas or propane torch ought to do the trick. The rear sight on my 91/30 slid right off with light tapping. No problems after removing the pins. However, yours may not have pins. It sounds like its a set screw, with solder. Good luck, definitely let us know how it turns out
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Yeah, I have one 91/30 with a Darrell's and it has not moved one microinch since I mounted it.. But neither has a 10 dollar cheapo I bought at overstock.com once I mounted it and used Lok-Tite on it. Can't say the same for an ebay cheapo. That one was Lok-Tited and would take all of 2-3 shots, and start to shift.
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i feel stupid...how do you look at all the sticky threads? i can only see a few of them and can't figure out how to see them all....
Stickys are at the beginning of each forum section. If you go to the main menu and select any certain forum, the stickys will always be at the top. Or, if you're like me and always hit "New Posts", you won't see the whole forum, but at the top of every thread is something like this....Gun and Game Forums > Firearms > Military Firearms > Mosin Nagant , just click on the last one (Mosin Nagant in this example) and that will take you to the main forum section, or whatever it's called, for that subject.
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i feel stupid...how do you look at all the sticky threads? i can only see a few of them and can't figure out how to see them all....
you are seeing them all. the scout scope thread should be a sticky. a few people have spent alot of time to make sure it was as complete as possible and give good part numbers, but it never get's sticky. you should have used the "search" function using "scout scope" as the key word. i'll try and find it for you. it's good reading.
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HTH, good luck. Don't forget to post pics of this baby, and sign her up in the roll call thread.
