I start at or near the minimum charge for both pistol & rifle. In my rifles, I work up in 1/2 gr increments until I see a narrowing, then an increase in the extreme spread in a series of ten chronographed shots per charge weight, (or an increase in group size without a chronograph). There is usually a narrowing/widening in 2 places in the charge range. One about 25-50% way up, & another between 50-80+% of the max charge (At least in my experience). When I find the best charge, I'll tweak in .1 gr increments on either side, unless the extreme spread/group size is pretty small.
With pistol loads, I work up from the minimum in .1 gr increments. I don't exceed the max charge in either.
HTH
Dave
__________________
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I always begin with the starting load, load 5 rounds and then go up by a 1/2 grain or so. I don't think I have ever went to a maximum load. The closest I have been to max is in my 30-30 the max load for Varget with a 150 grain Sierra Bullet was 34.5 Varget and I use 34. For the .223 I am 1.5 grains short of a compressed load (Varget). Still working on my .270 WSM but its a Tikka and seems to shoot everything pretty good.
I start at or near the minimum charge for both pistol & rifle. In my rifles, I work up in 1/2 gr increments until I see a narrowing, then an increase in the extreme spread in a series of ten chronographed shots per charge weight, (or an increase in group size without a chronograph). There is usually a narrowing/widening in 2 places in the charge range. One about 25-50% way up, & another between 50-80+% of the max charge (At least in my experience). When I find the best charge, I'll tweak in .1 gr increments on either side, unless the extreme spread/group size is pretty small.
With pistol loads, I work up from the minimum in .1 gr increments. I don't exceed the max charge in either.
HTH
Dave
very good advice! one note here, if you start playing with OAL at this point of best accuracy, further tuning of the powder charge should follow.
I start low and work up until the groups start spreading unless I reach max load for my barrel/rifle.I am also shooting through a chrono all the time so I know the reccomended fps for the bullet and how close I am to it. ,,,sam.
I make 5 rounds in .2 grain increments. (Since my scales are only guarantied +/-0.1 gr) I mark the heads with a Sharpie with the weight charge. Then I fire a couple fouling shots first, then shoot at separate targets with groups of 5. Then when I get the targets back, write the charge weight on them. Then when I get home, out come the calipers.
__________________
People think I'm paranoid because I own guns. If I own guns, what do I have to be paranoid about?
I start at or near the minimum charge for both pistol & rifle. In my rifles, I work up in 1/2 gr increments until I see a narrowing, then an increase in the extreme spread in a series of ten chronographed shots per charge weight, (or an increase in group size without a chronograph). There is usually a narrowing/widening in 2 places in the charge range. One about 25-50% way up, & another between 50-80+% of the max charge (At least in my experience). When I find the best charge, I'll tweak in .1 gr increments on either side, unless the extreme spread/group size is pretty small.
With pistol loads, I work up from the minimum in .1 gr increments. I don't exceed the max charge in either.
HTH
Dave
+1 wow, that saved me some typing thanks dave
__________________ "Keep it up, see where it gets you"- Mom
I work up in 0.5gn increments starting at minimum (303 British, so I don't want to risk overpressure), five rounds apiece, though I'm thinking of shooting ten at each charge weight. I don't intend to go closer than a grain to maximum recommended load, unless I can show the cases to someone who knows what they're doing far better than I do.
The target projectiles I'm currently playing with have cannelures, which fixes seating depth and hence OAL. But thanks, deadzero, for the hint about juggling charge weights again when you alter OAL.
Last edited by pathdoc; 08-02-2009 at 06:00 PM.
Reason: missed word
cannelures dont mean seating depth is set in stone. I have some loads that the cannelure is visable just above the case rim. (longer OAL for reduced bullet freerun to rifling) I taper crimp all rifle rounds. most bullets I load do not have a cannelure, I just got a good deal some time ago on a 1,000 round lot of Hornady FMJ, pre-obama
True, but the intended event is Service Rifle so there's a lot of rapid reloading involved - I feel a lot more comfortable crimping on the cannelure for that.
True, but the intended event is Service Rifle so there's a lot of rapid reloading involved - I feel a lot more comfortable crimping on the cannelure for that.
oh yes, I see. thats actually what I bought these bullets for but I have been playing with them in my varmint rifle also. for service rifles, your doing fine, and I would do the same
If using bullets without canilure you can reduce diammeter of expander ball by about .002" (I only reduced to .221) to .219"/.220",increasing hold on bullet and making it possible to get along without crimping.This info can be found by putting crimping bullet (or such) on search.I believe it is covered in the lyman reloading book.It is trial and error but you can put expander in a drill and work it to proper size with a fine stone.I never crimp for .223,s but load almost all boattail,s. ,,,sam.
