I recently acquired a Series 70 Colt Combat Commander in good condition. I don't know that much about 1911's, actually not much at all. I fired this gun quite a bit with round ball ammo and it did fine and was very accurate. However, it doesn't like hollow points. I took it to a gun smith and he said it needs ramp work and polishing, and he showed me how a Kimber looked on the inside compared to this old gun and it is obvious that it is different. He said that this will make it feel hollow points like a champ and it will be very reliable. He also recommended that I go with a full length guide rod and bushing and I agreed, but wanted to keep the old guide rod since it was original. He also said he could replace a little piece on the side that is held on with two pins (extractor?) that will make the casings go out to the side instead of straight up in the air (and in my face). He is also replacing a pin that holds the little ring onto the barrel and fitting some things together better.
You guys that know about 1911's...does all this sound right? I like the thought of an all original gun, but not if it won't feed hollow points. I want a reliable gun and I was assured this would do it. Also, this gun has a satin nickel finish, and once the gunsmith grinds and polishes on the ramp, won't that rust (without the nickle)? Maybe the nickel was already worn off from the ammo scraping across it for the last 30 years? Any advice? Sounds like I'll get a much more reliable gun, but I don't like leaving a (new to me) gun with a gunsmith for several weeks. Thanks, B
I believe a full length guide rod as an add on has no value whatsoever and I'm kind of curious why he'd recommend it; however, the rest of the work sounds reasonable and it's a fact some older 1911's didn't like some types of HP ammo. I don't think the feed ramp is an issue at all--consider that the barrel and most internal parts (and I think the ramp is as well but might be wrong) are just plain old steel--at least they are in my gun.
All's not lost if the gun doesn't like some types of JHP's. The .45 actually does pretty well with plain old hardball in most cases (as long as YOU do your part) and any JHP expansion is a bonus. If it came down to 100% with hardball and some hiccups with JHP's in a .45 (after you've tried a few and it still happens with the best matched JHP for your gun you can find) I'd go with the hardball for reliability.
__________________
God gives us free will; the statist tries to take it away
I would try several different hollowpoint loads from different manufacturers before you alter the gun. It seems from your post that you would like to keep it as original as you can. It might feed some hollowpoints better than others. My friend has a WWII vintage 1911 that will feed winchester white box 230JHPs like they where hardball.
__________________
Just because your paranoid doesn't mean they aren't out to get you!
I would also decline the full length guide rod. In cases where you could only rack the slide with one hand, you would be screwed. The others above are correct. Try different hollow points before you do anything to the gun.
Thanks for the responses. I have had several folks on three different forums tell me not to do the full length guide rod. I think I will call the gunsmith back today and remove that from the ticket. I probably will proceed with the feedramp work and the ejector work. Thanks again for all the input. B
Location: a secret lab on the shores of lake titicaca
Posts: 23,063
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pumpkinheaver
I would try several different hollowpoint loads from different manufacturers before you alter the gun. It seems from your post that you would like to keep it as original as you can. It might feed some hollowpoints better than others. My friend has a WWII vintage 1911 that will feed winchester white box 230JHPs like they where hardball.
+1000
before you start modifying a nice colt.
there is an awful lot of different types of ammo out there.
__________________ "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
I would also decline the full length guide rod. In cases where you could only rack the slide with one hand, you would be screwed. The others above are correct. Try different hollow points before you do anything to the gun.
Can someone explain this bit to me? How would I be screwed? I've had full length guide rods on a couple of pistols in the past and noticed no difference in doing it single handed.
I actually have noticed that with a single guide rod racking the slide feels smoother with no spring coil bind up.
I believe that I improved the accuracy of my Series 70 by using the full length guide rod.
If the smith suggested it, what was his reason for doing it?
+1 on what Billy said above, if you don't need to modify the feed ramp don't. try a good selection of ammo. I was probably lucky 'cos my .45 Colt ate anything and everything I fed it without as much as a hiccup. My best practice/target load was 185gn lead SWC.
__________________
How can I 'Soar with the Eagles' when I'm working with such 'Turkeys'!
I would try several different hollowpoint loads from different manufacturers before you alter the gun. It seems from your post that you would like to keep it as original as you can. It might feed some hollowpoints better than others. My friend has a WWII vintage 1911 that will feed winchester white box 230JHPs like they where hardball.
I agree, try this before you lay out alot of money for needless work. I don't really see where any of the things he wants to do will improve your pistol. What reason does he give for replacing the barrel locking link pin?
The 1911 was designed to use ball ammo and most will not work well with truncated bullets period. If the hollow points you have been using are truncated you may want to find some round nose hollow points. I reload with 180 gr RNHP's and I've never had a problem with my 1911A1 (Colt) digesting them.
The 1911 throws spent cases up right rear. To get the cases to go total right you will have to open the ejection port which will render your pistol no longer original.
Sounds to me your gunsmith wants to use you as an economic stimulus package.
Try different ammo...if you want a Kimber than buy a Kimber don't waste your money (or ruin your Colt) on some gunsmith who wants to try to turn your old Colt into a Kimber.
Just my opinion.
PS...If you want or need to replace the guide rod, you can do it yourself for the price of the GR. Also, I see no need to replace the barrel bushing unless the guide rod is physically different. Smells like Salmon to me.
__________________ If ya don't know where I've been and ya don't know where I'm going, your opinions of me don't count.
Last edited by oldjarhead; 08-31-2009 at 07:15 AM.
Can someone explain this bit to me? How would I be screwed? I've had full length guide rods on a couple of pistols in the past and noticed no difference in doing it single handed.
I actually have noticed that with a single guide rod racking the slide feels smoother with no spring coil bind up.
I believe that I improved the accuracy of my Series 70 by using the full length guide rod.
If the smith suggested it, what was his reason for doing it?
+1 on what Billy said above, if you don't need to modify the feed ramp don't. try a good selection of ammo. I was probably lucky 'cos my .45 Colt ate anything and everything I fed it without as much as a hiccup. My best practice/target load was 185gn lead SWC.
for defensive purposes the full length guide rod can be a hinderance. if for some reason you are wounded and can only use 1 hand, the pistol can be racked and/or cleared of jams by placing the spring plunger against any edged surface and pushing forward forcing the slide rearward. most spring plunger ends are checkered to give a better grip for this operation. trying to do this with a full length guide rod in place makes this a rather difficult operation.
I just reread the thread and notice the old Colt is already at the gunsmith.
Guess we got here too late, Billy.
Bass, I recommend you cancelling the ticket and get your old Colt back. Try some variety of ammo and then make your decision to make modifications if warranted.
__________________ If ya don't know where I've been and ya don't know where I'm going, your opinions of me don't count.
Last edited by oldjarhead; 08-31-2009 at 07:44 AM.
No full length guid rod. Kinda like spoilers onthe trunks of cars, look cool, but no real value.
I would personally take a non destructive polish method with a 3M pad and do a little polishing. You don't want to change any angles or butcher with a dremmel.
One thing we over look is the effect that magazines have on helping that cartridge make the jump into the chamber. Chances are your using the original or magazines of that period. Most of the newer modern 1911 magazines help in the feeding process via design.
Can someone explain this bit to me? How would I be screwed? I've had full length guide rods on a couple of pistols in the past and noticed no difference in doing it single handed.
.
LOL, you wouldn't be screwed. JMB would just come back from the dead and kick your butt.
I just reread the thread and notice the old Colt is already at the gunsmith.
Guess we got here too late, Billy.
Bass, I recommend you cancelling the ticket and get your old Colt back. Try some variety of ammo and then make your decision to make modifications if warranted.
You guys gave me a lot to think about. They haven't done anything yet, so I'm sitting here wondering what to do. I want to shoot hollow points and carry this gun all the time, so I'm thinking the throating/polishing would do the trick. I'll let you know, but I'm not getting the guide rod. Later, B
I like full length guide rods for general target shooting. one of my 45's can be set up 3 different ways. with my old Wilson compensator barrel the FLGR has to be used (I add a shock buffer). I use a Wilson FLGR and shock buffer with the original barrel for target use. only in defensive carry does it go back to original (see post #9). Guide rods are easy to install and do not require any gunsmithing to fit. they will keep the spring running straight and true, forward and back, with no side loading of the slide assembly.
and like spoilers, they do work, if you understand the dynamics involved.
LOL, you got me deadzero.
They do what you say, I believe. I don't feel the advantages of using one outweigh not using one personally. Very good point on the bench/target pistol. Just about anything goes at the range as long as it's safe. For a combat gun, I'd forego it myself.
I would agree with first trying different ammo. My Colt M1991A1 (Series 80 platform) is basically stock, with the only mods being the wider grip safety (reduces spur bite on my big hand) and removal of the firing pin block (arguably improves trigger pull). The latter is not an issue on the earlier Series 70 guns.
This pistol works fine with most hollow points, and does superb with the 185 grain Nosler truncated cone JHP.
It hates the fatter Speer JHP though, and won't chamber them.
As a wise man once said though - a .45ACP hardball is as big as an expanded 9mm HP! Plenty good enough for me.
I like full length guide rods for general target shooting. one of my 45's can be set up 3 different ways. with my old Wilson compensator barrel the FLGR has to be used (I add a shock buffer). I use a Wilson FLGR and shock buffer with the original barrel for target use. only in defensive carry does it go back to original (see post #9). Guide rods are easy to install and do not require any gunsmithing to fit. they will keep the spring running straight and true, forward and back, with no side loading of the slide assembly.
and like spoilers, they do work, if you understand the dynamics involved.
But if they make you happy and work on your gun, by all means enjoy
As far as the hardball .45 vs. 9mm exp like I said, the .45 won't shrink and most folks if they knew trouble was involved (and couldn't be somewheres else on that particular day) would want something with a .44 or .45 in it (actually the thinking person would want something with shotgun or rifle in it). Reliability is always the first priority and if the .45 feeds hardball 100% and JHP's 95% I'll personally take the hardball. But most modern 9mm designs now can reliably expand with 3rd/4th generation bullets so it all comes back to what it always did--shot placement and whatever you can shoot better. Just remember that the 9mm depends more on velocity to do its thing and the .45 depends more on mass.
As far as spoilers on most stock cars I see (at the stock speeds they typically go) they're just for decoration -- and some aren't in the best taste even for this. Yes, I do very much understand the physics of what they do and how they do it--we have them on the airplane (where they're used in the air for roll control and to add drag) and they greatly aid in dumping lift and getting weight on the wheels for braking on the ground--but effective mostly only at speeds the cars I see driving around with them would rarely--if ever--attain in practice (and it's questionable if how and where they're bolted on would help in handling in any way. Obviously I'm not talking about the rather intricate suspension and aero work that goes into something like a Rousch Mustang and the like which really DOES do alot for the handling of the car).
Anyway, all the best
__________________
God gives us free will; the statist tries to take it away
