Well, I've got most of the conversion done on my Arisaka Type 99, and am almost ready to load some ammo. I'd appreciate any suggestions as to loads/powders/primers/bullets/tips, etc. I'll be shooting primarily at 200-300-600 yard targets, though may later try out the rangerfinder scope on elk/moose/bear. For now, I'd like to get the most consistent load possible, and find out what it can do. I'm new to reloading, so any advice at all would be appreciated.
Max
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PETA, leave me alone—I only shoot paper or people....
Hey katzdad;
Sorry to see that you haven't had any replies on this post. I assume that you want to move forward on this adventure.
From the pictures, it appears that you have a pre-war model and they are thought to be a very strong action. The Joker posted this link in another Arisaka thread and I also had it saved in my favorites.Markings on Japanese Arisaka Rifles and Bayonets of World War II
You will find it interesting.
You can make the brass from 30-06 but it's a lot of work. I have also heard that 8 mm Mausers can be converted. I acquired my 99 over 30 years ago and had to make the brass back then. Now you can buy new ammo thru Cabela's for $24.00 a box. Cabela's -- Hornady Metric Caliber Ammo That is where I would start.
The load that I settled on was the Sierra 174 gr. HPBT Pro Hunter Match King Bullets. Cabela's -- Sierra .303 Caliber, .311'' Diameter Rifle Bullets
I load 40 gr. of H4895, USE CAUTION, That is a Max Load. I would start lower and work up to it.
I hope all this helps.
By the way, That's a good looking rifle. You have done good.
According to the marks and serial number, my Arisaka was manufactured at the Nagoya arsenal, about half-way through the first series-so was made quite awhile before the 'last ditch' rifles, and should have a strong chamber/receiver. The chamber and barrel are smooth as a baby's butt. The lands and grooves are like new, with imperceptible wear.
I have about a dozen once-fired brass from Norma 7.7 ammo, and three more boxes (sixty rounds) of unfired Hornady 150 grain ammo, so that should be enough for me to do up plenty of test loads. I'll pull the bullets and primers from the Hornady, dump the powder, then reload with CCI LR primers and IMR 4227 powder, reusing the 150 grain bullets that I'll pull, and the 125 grain bullets I bought.
The scope came with replaceable turrets, pre-marked for different calibers and loads, and one blank turret. I may end up making up turrets for different loads, so I can just swap them out depending on what I'm shooting: targets, elk, moose, bear, Democrats, etc.
Below is an updated picture of the conversion, so far. I added a sling swivel stud so I could mount my new Harris bipod, and the remote switch (under the front of the scope) for the scope's laser rangefinder.
Thanks again for your reply and encouraging words! Any critiquing or additional advice would be welcome.
Max
__________________
PETA, leave me alone—I only shoot paper or people....
katzdad;
According to the rear sight, you have an early model as you have confirmed. The early models had elevation adjustments with anti-aircraft bars on the rear sight. Later on, they done away with the bars and the very last ones had a very crude rear sight. The early ones were not only a sound rifle but the early 99 action was considered by some to be the strongest action ever made. On top of that, the early models had a chromed barrel. That's why they held up so well. That is a great looking sniper rifle. You have done good.
As for your choice of powder, ??????????. IMR4227 is #25 of 54 on the powder burn rate chart. I don't have a library of manuals but I can't fine a 4227 load for that rifle anywhere. Seems a little hot to me. The hottest recommended powder in my books is 3031 and I believe that is not the best choice although it is first on the list. They generally list the loads in order of best to worst. If you are set on that load, double check you manual and proceed with caution and watch for signs of high pressure. I don't personally know you but that doesn't mean that I don't care about you and the rifle that you have put so much work into.
My mistake...I was looking at the powder for my .30 cal. carbine (also WWII). The powder I am planning to use, if I can find it, is H4895, per your suggestion. One benefit is that I can also use it for 7mm Mauser reloads...a friend of the family owns one. Hopefully, I won't make the same mistake while at the reloading bench! (I edited the wording of my last post, to correct the mistake.)
Is there a way to find out what powder Hornady uses in their factory 7.7 ammo? And, since you seem to be experienced at reloading, and I'm reloading by weight instead of volume, what's your opinion of balance beam versus electronic powder scales? (I found the powder burn rate chart online and bookmarked it.)
Thanks again for your input, and any more would be appreciated.
Max
__________________
PETA, leave me alone—I only shoot paper or people....
Katzdad;
I am not aware of any Mfg. that will give out their factory load information. Sorry.
I have reloaded for over 40 years (off and on). I'm not an expert but I manage to stay out of trouble. Some will dispute this but I prefer balance beam scales. Set them on a solid surface, set the weights to 0/0, adjust pointer to 0 and there you are. Just double check the weight settings on the bar to make sure it is what you want for your load. They will last for decades.
I've owned electronic scales but you should/must check/calibrate them regularly. After a few years with mine, the numbers started to fail then I threw them away. Grrr.
I have owned an Arisaka 99 for over 30 years. It's all original. Actually harvested my first deer in Pa. back in 1973.
If you are new at loading and have a limited number of calibers, I would recommend the Lee Case Length Trimmer System. Here is the link. Cabela's -- Lee Case Trimmer They don't show the 7.7 but I found one at a gun show so I know they make them. ""Item notes
Includes a threaded shell holder and caliber-specific case length gauge. The cutter/handle and lock stud (21-0896), are needed to complete a Lee case trimmer tool."" Here is that link. Cabela's -- Lee Cutter and Lock Stud This system used with a Battery Drill works very well. It trims to the correct case length first time & every time. Be sure to buy the Case Neck De-Burring Tool also. I prefer this system over the Lathe Type Trimmer because there isn't any set-up and the setting doesn't change in the middle of a batch of shells. It's just simple and accurate. You'll also need a good set of dial calipers.
The Hodgdon On-Line Load Data doesn't list the 7.7 so I get my info from my Hornady Manual.
None of my regular online sources had 'all' of the items, so I went ahead and ordered the things you recommended, for both the Arisaka and my .30 carbine (picture below), plus a primer pocket cleaning tool, from Lee. Supposed to ship within 48 hours. Wahoo! Thanks once more. (Didn't order a scale yet...will see what BiMart has in stock.)
Max
__________________
PETA, leave me alone—I only shoot paper or people....
Well, I've got most of the conversion done on my Arisaka Type 99, and am almost ready to load some ammo. I'd appreciate any suggestions as to loads/powders/primers/bullets/tips, etc. I'll be shooting primarily at 200-300-600 yard targets, though may later try out the rangerfinder scope on elk/moose/bear. For now, I'd like to get the most consistent load possible, and find out what it can do. I'm new to reloading, so any advice at all would be appreciated.
Max
You might get more info if you post in the handloading forum. Handloading
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For info purposes only, use it at your own risk. JFKimmons and G&G aren't liable for it's misuse.
katzdad;
I think you will like the Lee Case Trimmers. Lathe Type Case Trimmers range from $80 - $105. You can buy a lot of Lee Pilots and Shell Holders for that money. You only need 1 or 2 Adapter & Cutter unless you load a large bore caliber. I chuck the Adapter w/ Shell Holder in a small battery drill, then tighten the case in the shell holder, insert the pilot and trim until it bottoms out. Then I de-burr the outside of the neck first, then the inside. This insures that the inside is smooth and wont mark the bullet. Then I remove the case from the shell holder. This is fast and easier than de-burring by hand.
The Lee System should work extremely well with the 30 Carbine. That shell is seated in the chamber with the end of the case. If you use a lathe type trimmer and trim the case a few thousands too short, it wont fire, same with all straight case calibers. Many moons ago, I loaded 1000 Luger 9 mm and had just over 100 that were too short. Grrr. Had to pull the bullets and throw the cases away. Live and learn. That was long before Lee came out with their stuff.
Always follow the Manual and enjoy!!
Hey Katz; I have a 99 that I reworked and use for deer hunting. I load a Sierra 180 spitzer .311 Dia. with 45 gr. of IMR 4350 gives me about 2720 fps. I tried to get up to 3000 but found it was more accurate at a little slower. I have used 8MM Mauser cases with no problems at all, just resize the neck.
This load has taken plenty of deer and last year a 1000lb. bison with a head shot at about 150 yds.
Like that scope. Good job! Did you rework that bolt your self? I went a little overboard with mine cuz the stock was hacked up when I got it, so I made a new one. I always wanted a thumb-hole stock anyway, it feels real good.
Hey Katz; I have a 99 that I reworked and use for deer hunting. I load a Sierra 180 spitzer .311 Dia. with 45 gr. of IMR 4350 gives me about 2720 fps. I tried to get up to 3000 but found it was more accurate at a little slower. I have used 8MM Mauser cases with no problems at all, just resize the neck.
This load has taken plenty of deer and last year a 1000lb. bison with a head shot at about 150 yds.
Like that scope. Good job! Did you rework that bolt your self? I went a little overboard with mine cuz the stock was hacked up when I got it, so I made a new one. I always wanted a thumb-hole stock anyway, it feels real good.
No, I had my gunsmith at Revelation Arms, in Aloha, OR, fabricate the bolt handle. He also put on the scope mount and threaded the barrel...all three jobs for $150.00 (which I thought was more than a fair price).
Did you build the stock yourself, from scratch? If not, where did you find it? Do you feel like making another...LOL. Below is a picture of the stock I may eventually put on my rifle, though I'd cut the front of it flat, then bed the barrel (did you do that on yours?). I also like the feel of a thumb-hole stock...I put one on my Ruger 10/22, and can't believe how much of an improvement it was!
I copied and pasted your recipe, and may give it a try. What primer did you use...magnum?
Max
__________________
PETA, leave me alone—I only shoot paper or people....
As I stated earlier, I'm not an expert.
To help answer your question about the bullet to rifling gap "freebore" you might find the following link interesting. Hornady
Scroll to the bottom of the article to find your answer.
Freebore is a good thing. The accuracy can be improved or made worse by changing the AOL but as this article indicated, zero freebore can take the chamber pressure above the safe range. Keep in mind that energy is required to start the bullet in motion, then energy is required to engage the bullet into the rifling. The elapsed time is in milliseconds but trying to do both at the same time can be dangerous.
I'm sorry, I thought sure you ask about freebore and now I can't find it. Anyway, this is a good source of infomation for a beginning loader.
__________________ Pick Your Battles Wisely GREY
Last edited by Greyhawk50; 10-05-2009 at 11:09 PM.
From a 1978 Sierra loading manual that I've tried:
Primer - CCI-200, Bullet - Sierra .311 spitzer, Powder - IMR 4064, 46 gr. found to be quite accurate. Book shows 51.8 gr. of IMR 4350 doing the same, estimated 2500 fps which makes these loads look quite conservative.
With the 180 gr. bullet they show 45.8 of IMR 4064 as a max load, 50.5 of the 4350 to get to the same 2500 fps.
While I have some Norma 7.7 brass, most of my cases are resized .06. Never had a problem making them but you must anneal the cases where the shoulder/neck get set back/expanded.
Hey Katz; I have a 99 that I reworked and use for deer hunting.
I went a little overboard with mine cuz the stock was hacked up when I got it, so I made a new one. I always wanted a thumb-hole stock anyway, it feels real good.
Kudos on the modified 99. That is by far the best looking 99 that I have ever seen. You have done an excellent job of transformation on that weapon. WOW. That is sharp.
Yes I made the stock from scratch out of a nice piece of walnut, then I free floated the barrel and bedded it. I took off the rear sight and cut 3 inches off the length of the barrel, reworked the bolt and did some checkering on the stock. Checkering turned out to be the hardest and most time consuming part of the whole deal,taking more time than all the rest put together.
I used federal large rifle primers. I like my balance beam scale and Sierra bullets, tried some .312s but had better luck with the .311s. I use the little wire brush on my dremel tool to clean primmer pockets.
I'm a cabinet maker so the stock was no big deal with an entire wood shop in my back yard. I do all this stuff just to prove to myself I can do it. I like to work with my hands and I'm to cheap to pay someone else to do something I can do my self since I'm retired and have more time than money. By the way a friend killed the rattler that I used for the sling.
