I was a machinist many years ago. I have never even dismantled my revolvers. However, I think if I had a good set of step-by-step instructions, I could pull it off.
Machinists are one thing...Gunsmiths are another. For safety sake , I recommend you take it to a qualified Gunsmith...
I can say this because I am Both a Gunsmith and Machinist and I have worked with Machinists that Ruined firearms because they werent Gunsmiths.
Trigger jobs are specialized work, and mostly hand work with jigs , files and stones and it must be done right or you end up with an unsafe weapon and then you have to buy new parts and start over...
30 + years of experience here talking.
Rich
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I know of an old gunsmith friend years ago that was doing a trigger job on his own 357 Security Six. I don't remember exactly what went wrong but I do remember him telling me "Don't reduce the hammer hook if you work on yours". Ruger would not send him another hammer, they made him ship the gun to them. they only charged him for the hammer, and that was minimal. his ego suffered the most.
he was able to see where he created a potentual problem and realized he made a mistake, only because he knew what to look for.
have a good gunsmith do the work for you.
it's too easy to make a trigger unsafe if you don't know what to look for.
For a first timer stay away from the sear notch. Concentrate on general deburring/polishing. Maybe install a spring kit. I Redhawk trigger job is not rocket surgery.
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Just put a spring kit in it and you should be fine. I had one put in my Redhawk, and I have a creep free 2 pound single action pull on mine. It makes it really easy to hit targets and critters when the pull is really light.
Just be aware that you need to be VERY careful when you lighten a pistols trigger pull. Also, be aware that if you ever send it to Ruger for any work, they will remove the trigger spring kit and put factory parts back in it. They return your parts, but then you have to put them back in when you get the pistol back. It happened with my Vaquero when sent it to get the cylinders [45Colt, 45ACP] regulated correctly.
If you limit your efforts to polishing, being careful to avoid rounding edges, you should get some noticeable improvement on most factory triggers, especially the newer ones. The older Colts and Smiths that had some hand fitting and polishing done at the factory, probably not so much. It helps a lot if you can see how the parts interact. Guns with side plates are very nice in that respect. As has been said, do not change the size or angles of the engaging surfaces. If you have a camera that will allow some macro work, you might want to get a good close-up pic of the way it all comes together before you start and compare that with a similar pic of your finished product to make sure there is still enough contact.
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