I bought a 10/22 about two months ago. It is the one with the barrel band and is blued. I was wondering if I took the barrel band off would it be more accurate. Do i need to sand the barrel channel out a free float the barrel. Any tips and help is appreciated.
Also, i have read on this site that getting the chamber cut to match specks will increase accuracy. If i do this will i have to use match grade bullets, or can i still use normal bullets. What is the difference in the original chamber and if i had it cut to match grade and the difference in match grade bullets and regular bullets.
If you're looking for 10/22 accuracy, there are a few mods that are pretty routine. One, new bull barrel and stock to accommodate. The second is a bolt buffer. I've never heard about cutting the chamber. If you're looking for accuracy, these are pretty much a must. My 10/22 is stock and the accuracy sucks and always has. But I love it!
one relatively inexpensive yet not cheap route for the 10/22 is to buy a real trigger on the aftermarket then glass bed the receiver and the barrel leaving the barrel band to hold against the glass bedding.
This gun does not have a barrel screwed into a steel receiver so free floating is not exactly an option.
I do not think further machining to the chamber will make any difference.
For many shooters it is a matter of buying the 10/22 to have a base to which a new trigger, often a new stock, and an aftermarket target barrel constitute preferred, yet not exclusive, custom add ons.
Mine is the carbine model, barrel band, walnut stock. It is completely stock, but I have never found the accuracy lacking. It's kind of boring shooting it on my 50 yard range. The only thing limiting what I can hit is my ability to see the target. I use 1" orange dots, usually shoot in the evening, and unfortunately have to deal with the setting sun shining right into the scope.
I don't think of a .22 as a humane hunting caliber much beyond 50 yards. Most of the shots I might have at squirrels, coons, crows, or groundhogs are way less than that. If I go out in the fields I would carry the 77/22 Hornet or the Model 1 in .22-250. What range do you guys shoot your 10/22s at?
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The Stock 10/22 is more accurate than you think. With a cheap scope and the cheapest ammo I could find I could consistently get under 2 inches at 50 yards. I never tried good ammo with it, but I believe it would get about 1 inch at 50 yards with CCI minimags. Now as for the barrel band, that might help. All I can say is pull it off and shoot it. It won't hurt to pull it off in the least. You could also try sanding down most of the barrel channel except for a little bit right at the end. I think that would help you. If nothing else it'll give your barrel some air and it'll cool faster. If you want superb accuracy(1/2 inch at 50) you'll have to buy a bull barrel and a good scope. The bolt buffer does help too. If nothing else, it makes cycling the action quieter, which I like. I also made some thin plastic washers and shimmed my trigger, sear, and hammer so they don't wiggle as much. Don't know if it helped, but it didn't hurt.
50 yards typically with an ocassional clay bird assault on the 100 yard birm using the bottom reticle post on the scope.
Keeping on the subject of the barrel band. I use a torque screw drive to tighten it at the same torque value after dissassembly as well as the stock screw. Now, I don't know how much this helps, but at least keeps things consistent.
I am contemplating getting a new barrel for my 10/22. After 20+ years of shooting untold numbers of bricks of ammo, I'm starting to see a drop off in accuracy. I'm leaning toward another factory barrel for price but would not mind a better quality unit. I'm not much interested in the heavy .920's Is there a factory size spec barrel that has a better accuracy potential without going to the .920?
I've never heard of machining a chamber either but before I even attempted machining, I'd replace the barrel with "bull" barrel and maybe have the trigger pull checked and lightened if need be. Spending $500+ to beef up a $200 .22 is somewhat outrageous, IMO.
I have a sporter (circa 1983) that is quite accurate at 50 yards. If you are getting groups of quarter size that's good enough for hunting small game. If you're shooting bench-rest than go all out. If that first shot is in the kill zone you don't need to worry about the second shot.
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The first thing you need to do is spend a few nights reading over at RFC Home. That should answer your questions.
Many 10/22 carbines respond to removing the barrel band. You can float the barrel and bed the receiver, pillar bedding seems to work the best for the 10/22. The re-cutting the oem chamber to match spec is for people that compete in a oem barrel class. This cost just about $100 and tightens the chamber. You can use any ammo, but match may shoot better.
Don't waste your money on a after market trigger group. You can rework a oem group and achieve the same results. Save the money unless you want the bragging rights.
What kind of accuracy are you after? It's easy to get a oem rifle to shoot two inch groups at 50yds. If you want to shoot quarter inch groups you need to make some significant changes.
You can spend a ton of money if you get the 10/22 bug. You can replace every part on the rifle with custom after market parts. I may not shoot much better. The accuracy comes from the proper fitting of everything. I put mine together on the cheap. I picked up a new/used barrel and stock, modified oem parts (8oz trigger). Major cost was the Mueller scope. I did buy a straight leg trigger, that's about the only non stock part in the whole rifle. Half inch groups are easy, I have to have a good day to shoot under that.
Here's a shoot of the pillar bedding. I machined the pillar from aluminum. It is then epoxied in the stock, this way the the retaining bolt can not compress the wood. Full metal contact.
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Last edited by madcratebuilder; 10-16-2009 at 09:23 AM.
Nice lookin' shooter, MCB.
I have a Mueller on my .308 and it's a great scope at a reasonalbe price.
Thanks oldjarhead, they are a real bargain in my book. I have a TAC II on my M1A and it's been great for the past two years. The return to zero is great, I wasn't sure how it would hold up to the recoil, I'm impressed, the best under $300 scope I have ever used.
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Last edited by madcratebuilder; 10-16-2009 at 11:14 AM.
Loose the barrel band,cut back the stock where the bbl. band was rasp excess wood away sand and stain. Get a trigger spring kit from wolf install and shoot the heck out of it. If you are serious about accuracy get a good bolt action (for less money than you will spend on the 10/22 ) and never look back. Check out the CZ's .22's, decent price and will out shoot the 10/22 @ 100 yards,bone stock,all day long...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rimfirenut
Loose the barrel band,cut back the stock where the bbl. band was rasp excess wood away sand and stain. Get a trigger spring kit from wolf install and shoot the heck out of it. If you are serious about accuracy get a good bolt action (for less money than you will spend on the 10/22 ) and never look back. Check out the CZ's .22's, decent price and will out shoot the 10/22 @ 100 yards,bone stock,all day long...
i modded the hell out of mine.
shilen bbl., custom trigger,pillar bedded etc.
AND got a cz452
that cz will out shoot it.......
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Mine is the carbine model, barrel band, walnut stock. It is completely stock, but I have never found the accuracy lacking. It's kind of boring shooting it on my 50 yard range. The only thing limiting what I can hit is my ability to see the target. I use 1" orange dots, usually shoot in the evening, and unfortunately have to deal with the setting sun shining right into the scope.
I don't think of a .22 as a humane hunting caliber much beyond 50 yards. Most of the shots I might have at squirrels, coons, crows, or groundhogs are way less than that. If I go out in the fields I would carry the 77/22 Hornet or the Model 1 in .22-250. What range do you guys shoot your 10/22s at?
Certainly no more than 40-50 yards out of the tall pines in our area. No real MOA is needed. If you can hit a squirrel "anywhere," he's coming down. The 10-22 does a good job, and with iron sights too. I have an old Winchester 190 that my father bought for me from J.C. Penny's back in the mid-60s. I used to hit the little Georgia Power utility signs atop giant transmission towers a couple of hundred yards away. I'd hear the metallic clang about three seconds after I pulled the trigger. I'll have to compare it to my Ruger 10-22 on the range sometime.
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DIY trigger job by using the Great West Gunsmithing video. After you get a crisp no creep slightly lighter trigger. And the know how to take it lighter if you desire.
Sand the barrel channel. Bed a 2 inch pad at the ballence point.( with the action removed rest it on a pncil til you find the balencing point.) Bed a 1 inch pad at the barrel band. Use hand pressure to set the action in the bedding. Then elctrical tape to hold it there til dry. Next bed the rear of the action shelf.
After this you will have a much better shooter.
Also bulk ammo has not worked well for me and many others. Start with CCI mini-mags as the cheap and work up from there.
For what it's worth, my 10/22 is completely stock with an old 3-9 scope on it (taken from another gun when I replaced it with a better scope).
It is VERY accurate as is.
Obviously there is a huge aftermarket for parts. Most flyers I get have several pages dedicated to it. If I ever do make changes to mine, it'll be just for fun.
My "pretty much stock" 10/22 carbine w/ the wood stock.
My "pretty much not-stock" 10/22 w/ 16" (including flash hider/muzzle break) and a bunch of other goodies (sorry for the bad picture, just put it back together)...
and here it is with a centerpoint 4x16x40 scope
and at 50yds i can get less than 1/2" groups and at 100yds i can get less than 1" groups.
yes you can do all the aftermarket stuff that you want BUT the real secret to good groups is practice, practice, practice.
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