how muh can i grind the sear to reduce trigger pull before i have to worry about going full auto? i will be purchasing a vq hammer and sear soon and so im not too worried if i ruin the factory sear. i just want to make sure i dont modify it to the point of illegality.
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i didnt do it i promise...ok maby i did...mike
how muh can i grind the sear to reduce trigger pull before i have to worry about going full auto? i will be purchasing a vq hammer and sear soon and so im not too worried if i ruin the factory sear. i just want to make sure i dont modify it to the point of illegality.
I think you should wait till you get the vq and sell me your factory stuff
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“THOSE WHO HAMMER THEIR GUNS INTO PLOWS WILL PLOW FOR THOSE WHO DO NOT” T.J.
I think you should wait till you get the vq and sell me your factory stuff
what is your offer and is it legal for me to ship them? i am assuming that it is but we all know what happens when you assume. vq will probably be ordered next wendsday on payday
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i didnt do it i promise...ok maby i did...mike
that was kind of my idea. how much should i take off? any particular shape i should go for or just keep the same shape and just remove a little bit? if i can reduce trigger pull enough i may not even buy the vq set. if i take off too much do i have to worry about incomplete engagement leading to full auto?
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i didnt do it i promise...ok maby i did...mike
Seeing as how I got peeved off at Ruger and sold all my Ruger products, these guys will be your best bet for any & all help on a 10/22.
Ruger follows the Bill Gates/Microsoft business model...make a half-acre piece of equipment, sell it cheap, tell 'em there's aftermarket upgrade goodies, and run.
Back in the old days, they called it selling Snake Oil...
__________________ Marlin & Calico Specialist
I'm not just Trigger Happy, I'm Trigger Ecstatic!!
Please don't file on your trigger hammer or sear. This work needs to be stoned in a proper fixture.. stoning removes small amounts and leaves a flat and smooth finish. This work is not for the inexperienced, IMHO....
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"Political correctness is a belief that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."
Please don't file on your trigger hammer or sear. This work needs to be stoned in a proper fixture.. stoning removes small amounts and leaves a flat and smooth finish. This work is not for the inexperienced, IMHO....
if it doesnt work i had already planned on getting the vq set on payday so it wont really matter too much.
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i didnt do it i promise...ok maby i did...mike
I would suggest never grinding/filing on trigger parts. The best is to polish with no metal removal. A smooth trigger feels lighter because the parts work easier together while grinding removes metal and changes how the parts work or do not work together, also you may change surface hardness with metal removal.
Another method is spring replacement to get a lighter trigger pull.
Go auto once and people will look at you funny especially the FED's!
I would suggest never grinding/filing on trigger parts. The best is to polish with no metal removal. A smooth trigger feels lighter because the parts work easier together while grinding removes metal and changes how the parts work or do not work together, also you may change surface hardness with metal removal.
Another method is spring replacement to get a lighter trigger pull.
Go auto once and people will look at you funny especially the FED's!
i have already polished everything thoroughly. the hardness issue is moot because i have a decently strong background in mettalurgy and can easily re harden the parts. wich spring to replace? the trigger return spring?
if i wanted to go full auto i would just mill the front of the bolt by about .015 so that is not my goal at all.
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i didnt do it i promise...ok maby i did...mike
stop with the "dont do it". if i happen to ruin the factory parts then i can alwys just replace like ill be doing anyway if i cant reduce pull to an acceptable level.
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i didnt do it i promise...ok maby i did...mike
I tried playing with parts kits to improve the trigger. One came out pretty well, the other came out less so. I eventually replaced both with Kidd triggers. Light years better than any other trigger for the 10/22.
how muh can i grind the sear to reduce trigger pull before i have to worry about going full auto? i just want to make sure i dont modify it to the point of illegality. And the...stop with the "dont do it". if i happen to ruin the factory parts then i can alwys just replace like ill be doing anyway if i cant reduce pull to an acceptable level.
Apparently you already have your agenda why even ask a question? No flame intended but you ask and will not heed proper advice, have at and file on your sear and tell US when it becomes illegal....SIASD.
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"Political correctness is a belief that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."
Apparently you already have your agenda why even ask a question? No flame intended but you ask and will not heed proper advice, have at and file on your sear and tell US when it becomes illegal....SIASD.
reread the question. i didnt ask if i should i ask how much i can before it is an issue
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i didnt do it i promise...ok maby i did...mike
Please don't file on your trigger hammer or sear. This work needs to be stoned in a proper fixture.. stoning removes small amounts and leaves a flat and smooth finish. This work is not for the inexperienced, IMHO....
I used the word FILE, mostly because I didn't want him to use a power tool on it, by reading the links he would have been introduced to smoothing by stoning & polishing, if he wasn't familiar with it already
I've seen quite a few problems caused by Dremel Tools...Haven't we all...LOL
__________________ Marlin & Calico Specialist
I'm not just Trigger Happy, I'm Trigger Ecstatic!!
I'm sure you know as well as I do that if you can file a sear it is too soft and there are many other problems to contend with with the arm if you can!
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"Political correctness is a belief that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."
Pontiac - I think you should listen to K75 on this. You do not want to do anything but "stone" the proper surface. When you take the trigger mechanism apart in a 10 22 it can be confusing as to which surface needs work. This is something to approach with great care. Your question as to "how much" to take off cannot be answered as there is no specific amount. Even if there were, you would not have the necessary tools to measure such a small amount of metal removed. You have to stone properly and put the mechanism back together perhaps four or five times if you wish to do it right. You can bring the pull down to a reasonable amount and not impair the function of the disconnector.
Each time you stone, you only work the surface back and forth about three or four times before reinstalling and checking.
Tom
reread the question. i didnt ask if i should i ask how much i can before it is an issue
