I got this item off of Gunbroker and was disappointing to find rust on it. The seller said he diden't notice it when he took it out to take a snapshot of it, and I believe him as he has a sparkling seller history. However, I am still stuck with having to fix this.
I think it's rust, but I really don't know any better. Take a look at the following pic, and any advice on what to do to clean this up would be much appreciated.
Last edited by FrostShell; 11-02-2009 at 10:57 AM.
Go to their website. They have some excellent industrial products both for zapping rust to atomic oblivion but also preventing rust. Their rust blaster will get into a space of one millionth of an inch.
Is there any other product that I could pick up in a store that would do the trick? Honestly I am pretty worn out on internet purchases for this gun. I just want to fix this last problem and be done with it already.
Brake Fluid
For rust removal, try automotive brake fluid. For light rust rub it on liberally with a patch, allow it to sit for a couple of minutes and wipe off. For heavily rusted items swab liberally with brake fluid and allow to sit over night. Burnish the finish with a wool pad or #0000 steel or bronze wool. Brake fluid may be damaging to some wood finishes so make sure you keep it on the metal. Electrolysis Rust Removal
You can remove rust from metal using electrolysis, and it will not harm the bluing. The main advantage to this method is it gets all the rust in hard to reach places. You will need
A plastic container that will hold the part and electrolysis solution.
Steel rod. DO NOT USE STAINLESS STEEL AS THIS WILL PRODUCE HARMFUL BYPRODUCTS.
Water
Arm & Hammer Washing Soda (not baking soda. Washing soda can be found in your local grocery store with the laundry detergent. If you cannot find washing soda, pour some baking soda-sodium bicarbonate into a pan and heat it over low-medium heat. Water and carbon-dioxide will cook-off leaving washing soda-sodium carbonate. ) Another source is swimming pool "PH Increaser." which is labeled 100% sodium carbonate. [Thanks to Bob Head for this hint]
Battery charger or other high amperage power supply.
Cautions: Wear eye protection and rubber gloves when working with this solution is very alkaline and can cause irritation. The electrolysis process breaks down water into its component parts, hydrogen and oxygen, which can be explosive. Work outside or in a very well ventilated area. Be sure your battery charger/power supply is unplugged before attaching or touching the leads. In the container, mix 1 tablespoon of washing soda for each gallon of water to make up your solution. Be sure the washing soda is thoroughly dissolved. Place a steel rod either through the part to be cleaned (use o-rings to prevent the part from touching the rod), or numerous rods around the inside of your container. Connect these rods with wire; these will be the anode. You must be sure that the part to be cleaned is not touching the rod(s). Suspend the part in the solution with steel cable or wire so that it makes a good electrical contact with the part; this will become the cathode. Connect the negative lead (black) to the part being cleaned, connect the positive (red) lead to the rod(s), then plug in the charger. You will immediately begin to see bubbles; this is hydrogen and oxygen as the water breaks down. Allow the part to "cook" for 3-4 hours. The time is dependent on the size of the part, amount of rust, and the current of the power supply. After you remove the part, immediately clean and dry it off, then coat it with a good quality gun oil or rust preventative oil. Thanks to Roy Seifert for this tip Roy reports that he used this process on a 1911 frame that had a lot of surface rust all throughout the inside. He set the frame upside down on wooden blocks in the electrolysis solution and placed a rod with o-rings through the magazine well. He used a 1.5 amp trickle charger and left it for about 4 hours. When finished, the frame was completely free of rust, and the bluing was intact. Bon Ami
For light rust on stuff including mold blocks, soak with Ed's Red and then make a paste of Ed's Red and Bon Ami (see the bore paste section) and rub until rust is removed. Clean with Ed's red or whatever cleaner you like and relube. For mold blocks, degrease before using. luck
Looks like copper not rust? Strange place for it but, maybe copper fouling?
I'm talking about what's around the center or cylinder shaft?
Anyhow, FWIW, if it is rust you can try WD-40 and #0000 steel wool? I had a spot on my original Mossberg Shotgun barrel, must have missed a finger print after handling it, but I used WD-40 and #0000 steel wool and rubbed very lightly and kept it wet with WD-40. Where it was on my barrel is still kind of visible, but you have to look real hard to see it.
And again, it looks like copper/copper fouling to me.
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It's from a S&W 586 and went on my 686. They are the exact same gun, just different finishes, so it dropped right in without a fuss.
Well, they may be "exactly the same" in a visual inspection, but I guarantee you they are not the same as far as "timing" of the cylinder is concerned. You need to have an expert gunsmith check/adjust the cylinder timing, or send it to S&W factory for timing repair work.
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I put in snap caps and checked the alignment of the bullet down the bore with single and double action, and every round is perfectly aligned with the barrel.
How is the timing on it? Does it lock up before the hammer falls or goes to full cock? The cylinder stop latch should go into the notch on the cylinder before the hammer falls or goes into full cock. The timing is good if that happens.
