I have only fed mine mil-surp but from what I have read wolf is okay as long as you dont get the laquered type. And I have only heard good things about the Prvi Partizan.
I had a PTR-91, if you shot anything but Mil-Surp., anything without a crimped primer, it would blow the primer out when it fired and jam. This didn't happen every time I shot it but if you fired two mags through it you could almost bet it would happen. The original ammo for roller-lock rifles had slightly less power than standard 7.62x51 because of the action type.
Has anyone else had this problem?
I had a PTR-91, if you shot anything but Mil-Surp., anything without a crimped primer, it would blow the primer out when it fired and jam. This didn't happen every time I shot it but if you fired two mags through it you could almost bet it would happen. The original ammo for roller-lock rifles had slightly less power than standard 7.62x51 because of the action type.
Has anyone else had this problem?
This is the first I've ever heard of this. Perhaps the stuff were you using was consistently over-charged or designed for machine-gun-use-only?...
__________________
B.S. Chemistry UofWA '09
CETME Owners - Founder
AK-47 - Member
The Mosin Men - Member
KF7GEA
CETME Modelo C (our common sporter CETMEs are based on this) were designed for standard 7.62X51 ammo. This is verified in the Spanish manual for the weapon.
This is the first I've ever heard of this. Perhaps the stuff were you using was consistently over-charged or designed for machine-gun-use-only?...
No it was factory ammo. I tried remington, federal, and it would do it with wolf, silver bear and anything without a crimped primmer. The only thing I can think of is that the extraction and cycling of the action were too violent and was jarring the primer out when the action bottomed out, this gun kicked hard. Harder than my Stevens .308 by far and it is allot lighter. I figure I just had a lemon, but I don't think I would own another.
GM, I would suspect a problem with the recoil buffer. My CETME has the softest recoil of any SA rifle I have shot, and far softer than any boltie. HK's do recoil a bit more, having a different buffer, but shouldn't be that stiff!
GM, I would suspect a problem with the recoil buffer. My CETME has the softest recoil of any SA rifle I have shot, and far softer than any boltie. HK's do recoil a bit more, having a different buffer, but shouldn't be that stiff!
I don't think so... the recoil buffer wouldn't account for the blown-out primers. Spent cartridges are kicked out and gone by the time the buffer comes into the picture.
What I'm most worried about is perhaps there being a bore or throat that is undersized and putting excess pressure on the chamber when the bullet tries to move its way down. This, of course, doesn't seem all that likely, though... but if whomever put the PTR-91 together used a new US-made barrel, it could be mis-matched. Thing is, I don't see anything other than .308 or .223 being options for barrels, as those were the only two (production) calibers made for the CETME/G3/PTR-91 style of firearm (of course, under other monikers for the .223 models). And, if it was a .223 barrel, you'd have blow'd yaself up!... or at least the gun.
There's obviously something causing overpressure in the cartridge and this is something that needs to be looked at by a competant gunsmith before ever firing that rifle again. Unfortunately, from the way gun monkey was talking, it is no longer in his possession. If you are still in contact with the new owner, I would highly recommend advising them to have it checked out, since you are and were aware of this issue and thus, may be liable for any future damage or injury.
__________________
B.S. Chemistry UofWA '09
CETME Owners - Founder
AK-47 - Member
The Mosin Men - Member
KF7GEA
Big Dog (and fellow shooters): Pardon this drift from the topic.
Recoil would never be an issue, as I shoot my LE 'Jungle Carbines' with no pads, and am fairly skinny.
The hang-up with the G-3, from what I've read, is that it's very difficult for me to figure out from several Internet bulletin boards:
a) the extra cost of buying the port buffer and gun smith costs to install this device, and
b) with it added, just what the average cost is for a beginner to reload whichever type of 'correct' .308 is easily ordered.
An Army soldier told me that active duty guys who use the M-14 use Remington (civilian) ammo. Reading that (US?) military ammo is more durable in the G-3, this is confusing.
I have the CETME. The recoil is less than my bolt gun in 7mm-08. That said, the chamber in the G3 and the CETME is different than what's in the M-14. The M-14 does not have a fluted chamber and uses a different type of action. If you use NATO spec ammo, you won't have problems with broken cases. If you want to reload for this family of rifles, keep the pressure down. Use the starting loads for .308 ammo in the reloading books as your basic recipe. I use the starting loads in my CETME in 175gr JHP and 165 FMJ rounds and I only get some slight fluting marks on a few of my spent cartridges (when I can find them).
Big Dog (and fellow shooters): Pardon this drift from the topic.
Recoil would never be an issue, as I shoot my LE 'Jungle Carbines' with no pads, and am fairly skinny.
The hang-up with the G-3, from what I've read, is that it's very difficult for me to figure out from several Internet bulletin boards:
a) the extra cost of buying the port buffer and gun smith costs to install this device, and
b) with it added, just what the average cost is for a beginner to reload whichever type of 'correct' .308 is easily ordered.
An Army soldier told me that active duty guys who use the M-14 use Remington (civilian) ammo. Reading that (US?) military ammo is more durablethe G-3, this is confusing.
You lost me on the first part. "Recoil never an issue"? Are you thinking of buying a Cetme/G3 style rifle? As for the port buffer, $50.00 and if you can weld they are very simple to install. I have not used one before but I would think it would damage the brass worse, the ejection on one of these rifles is violent and REALLY throughs the brass far. Where an AR will drop them a few feet from you, a Cetme will sling them 30 feet.
Was just stating that recoil is not a factor (or wouldn't have bought the LE #5s).
That info helped, but the reloading economics will take a while for me to sort out, before really considering a G-3 etc.
I don't have a real battle rifle, but if average reloading costs for a CETME G-3 or Garand can be .30/round, whichever rifle's ammo can meet this cost average, based on present day component prices/easy availability, will decide it.
Am skeptical that near .30/round is possible for a beginner.
From what I've read, milsurp .308 ammo could be difficult to find, but don't know if its a bit pricey.
Make it easy on yourself, if you want to reload, pick a different rifle then the Cetme/G3 family of weapons. You could reload them but it would be more work than it's worth.
I've reached that conclusion based on so many reports of "Catch 22s" with lots of these (Century-built) G-3s and ammo. Have learned that kidding one's self about a certain type of gun can be an expensive failure in judgement.
Maybe 30-06 ammo for an M-1 Garand would be easier to reload for, and fairly cheaply.
Don't forget, you're time has value, too. Would you be better off paying 60 cents per round, or whatever the current price is, for milsurp and spending the time in more productive pursuits?
I don't know what "Catch 22's" you're talking about but I do know there have been a lot of complaining on the web, which seems to be what people do best on the web, about the CETME's from Century. I bought mine from a guy like that. Yep, it jammed a lot but I tore it down and gave it a thorough cleaning and now it runs like a champ. It was amazing the amount of crud that I got out of it either from the build process or the guy I bought it from. The AR shooters like to oil their rifles very heavily. You don't do that with the CETME. That's a common mistake but this rifle is a lot different in construction and operation than the AR and you have to treat it differently.
I think Gun Monkey has the best solution for you, if the magical 30 cents per round reload cost is your #1 criteria for selection. I haven't taken the time to do the research but can you really reload for 30 cents a round?
__________________
Bob
Beware the fury of a patient man......John Dryden
These days the bullets alone will nearly cost that much - unless you find a deal on surplus pull-downs by the thousand. Primers are getting steep too.
Once-fired 7.62X51 brass ain't cheap any more.
Basically, that 60-cent a round surplus begins to look not-so-bad. I use it for 'practice' shooting.
Save my tighter-shooting handloads for 'serious' work.......
I think Gun Monkey has the best solution for you, if the magical 30 cents per round reload cost is your #1 criteria for selection. I haven't taken the time to do the research but can you really reload for 30 cents a round?
I get pretty close to that. I buy used empties from guys who collect them from local .mil ranges. Bulk bullets, powder, and primers, and I can load them up for about that much. Plus I like reloading, it's another hobby of mine.
