I have added a nice S&W 28-2 (357) and a little H&R 930 22lr to my collection. I was wondering if revolvers are designed and factory sighted for double action or single action. My POI is to the left in single action and center mass in DA.
Also how aggressive do I need to be in cleaning the forcing cone, the rifling is good on both guns, just cant figure a strategy to clean the inside of the forcing cone as its diameter is larger than the rest of the bore.
They are both fun to shoot, and I don't have to chase brass on my 357.
I aint a expert...but IMO it shouldn't matter whether it's SA or DA...the sites should be set the same. The only difference between SA and DA is that most people (myself included) find SA more accurate, because of the lesser poundage trigger pull and shorter trigger travel.
Your POI difference could most likely be attributed to the differences in trigger weight and travel between the DA and SA.
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The time pulling the trigger and the force involved throws the gun off target compared to shooting single action. That is the way it is. You could take an old cleaning bore brush and bend it, then clean the forcing cone by hand. Works for me.
"Lewis Lead Remover" tool makes short work of removing traces of lead from the forcing cone and barrel. Basically it's a rubber cone with some fine mesh brass screen like material over it that you pull through the barrel.
Changes in your poi from DA to SA is in your technique, you'll get better with practice. Practice dry firing helps a lot.
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Dry firing is essential in pistol shooting, and maybe most essential in double action pistol shooting.
Check this out. http://www.outdoorchannel.com/downlo...tionDouble.pdf
Thrillbilly posted it last night and you might find it helpful. Not sure it's the Holy Grail of pistolcraft, but it's a tool.
The sights would be the same POI for either; the varying POI's you are experiencing (assuming the same stance and grip) are due to the gun moving differently due to your trigger pull (you also might be gripping the gun differently during the DA pull which needs some leverage which would complicate matters). Many things can influence this--some people use the pad of the finger for SA and the portion just short of the first finger joint for DA and also the trigger can overtravel (i.e. continue to go aft after the hammer drops) which can cause different reactions between the light SA pull and the heavier DA pull. In short this is all a round about way of saying it's you for some reason or another.
Trigger action is probably THE most important aspect of accurate shooting.
The bottom line here is to have the same consistent stance and grip and have a SMOOOOTHEEEEE trigger pull thru the DA arc (the objective being having the gun move as little as possible from the point where the sights are on target and the trigger pull begun until after firing and the bullet leaving the barrel). This is one of the reasons why DA shooting is taught and advocated for ALL defensive shooting (safety being another) -- you have a consistent set of circumstances you can train to.
Billy posted a pie shaped trigger quadrant guide a while back which is quite useful in troubleshooting trigger pulls--perhaps he or another member would be kind enough to re-post.
As far as cleaning, for a revolver it'll likely function right up to the point when the flash gap gets so fouled up it starts to interfere with cylinder movement. A good cleaning with wire brush and patches should be fine. If you want to get the forcing cone area cleaner (up to you) a brass/copper/nylon toothbrush type thing with solvent works great without alot of effort.
Good luck !
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I noticed that S&W has a classic collection they introduced, they look great but are up in the $1k price range, what did they go for back in the late 70's?
I'm liking that model 57 in .41 and the 17 in 22lr. Is it tax time yet?
When working on that trigger pull, remember to squeeze the trigger slowly when practicing. Keep your mind on your sight picture, and only increase trigger pressure when the sights wobble toward the target. If you're doing it right, you won't know (except by pressure if you're sensitive to it) just when it will go off. Concentrate on the target, not the trigger.
Check the amount of time allowed for the old NRA slow fire competition - you'll be surprized at how long they allow for 5 shots.
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