took my rental garand out for its first test run in ATLEAST 17 yrs. i was using brand new Hornady Match 30-06 M1 with the 168 A-Max. gave me a lot of issues. after fumbleing around trying not to get my thumb bit off i learned how to get the loaded clip in. now the problems started. the very first round went kinda rough. seemed like it was hanging up on the shoulder of the case. so i backed off the bolt. the round loosened up then i let the bolt run in under its own power. it chambers. goes boom. but doesnt extract so the next round is run right into the first. smashes the polymer a-max tip. so pulled the bolt back, ejected the clip, salvaged the round and extracted the case. the extractor just powered through the rim instead of jump around it. casehead is totaled. i can take pics if you want em.
so i loaded the clip back up and it went smoothly this time. fired the first round then the second got stuck. backed the bolt off and let it run in normally. fires, cycles, fires, stuck. rinse and repeat for the first clip. maybe it was a clip issue
next clip. first round in fine, 2nd stuck, 3rd 4th 5th 6th cycled well, 7 stuck, 8 went well.
so before i take this thing to a smith, what should i look at? when i cleaned it a month ago i had it stripped down to the basics. cleaned it well, lubed it per the CMP's manual thingy. assembled correctly. the only part i didnt strip was the bolt and im just wondering it the ejector is just old and cranky and needs to get worked a bit to loosen up. seems to me that if the ejector is stiff it wont give and bind the round as it enters the chamber. yes? no? maybe? also maybe the recoil spring needs replacing? any ideas or help would be great!
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Need to clean that bolt real good, seems to be gummed up. Soak the bolt in something to loosen up the old lube that seems to have hardened. Don't wipe it clean, soak it since the extractor seems to be somewhat frozen. Let the bolt race home when chambering that first round.Don't ease it foward.
thats what i did. didnt ease it. it just took out the rim of the first round but never repeated that problem. can just soak the bolt in something or should i tear it down and if i must tear it down whats the best way of doing it without that gi tool thingy?
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The bolt can be dis-assembled without the tool, but if you for whatever reason; don't get one; soaking is second best. Some oils turn to tar and your recent cleaning probably had no effect on the bolt innards, especially the ejector, the spring and ejector pin and the hollow they lay in.
i was hoping it was something simple such as the stuff being gummed up. should have guessed cause i had trouble cleaning the op rod and the gas tube. both had really sticky brownish crud on them. now i know its tar. haha. im excited about fixing this gun and getting in in working shape. it hasnt been shot much at all since the rebarrel done in the 60's. ran a 2 on TE and 2.5 on MW. it should turn out to be a good shooter.
the point of impact is way off though. about 7 inches right at 50-60yds. i correct this by shifting the front sight to the right correct? in other words bring the sights to the holes.
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The rear sight on a Garand can be used for both windage and elevation. The knob on the right is for windage, the left for elevation.
PG 22 of the book that came with my M1 from CMP. Mine was printed in 1997, so if they are different, here is what it says:
" TO ZERO THE ELEVATION KNOB: Two types of rear sights are found. The old type is distinguished by a rectangular lock nut opposite the windage knob. With this type, if the sight was adjusted at 200 yds., tighten the lock nut and loosen the screw in the elevation knob, then reset the knob so that its 200-yd. marking is opposite the index and tighten the screw. With the new type, there is no lock nut, so the screw can be loosened only when the sight is at the bottom, and fully retightened only when it is at the top. Count the number of clicks needed to lower the sight from your adjusted setting to the bottom and just break loose the screw. Leave it tight enough to turn the sight. Raise the sight the same number of clicks. Now back out the screw enough to allow the knob to be pulled away from the sight and rotated so that its 200-yd. marking is opposite the index. Retighten the screw as much as you can while holding the elevation knob, then raise the sight to maximum elevation to cinch it down firmly. Check the adjustment; you should have the same number of clicks from the 200-yd. marking to the bottom as were counted before."
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Last edited by Iron_Colonel; 11-14-2009 at 07:29 PM.
Front sight is moveable, thats why they made made the wide base Gas cylinders. Normally dont move the front sight for windage unless the rear sight is already adjusted way off center. Sometimes it takes a combination of both front and rear adjustments. Front sight towards bullet group for adjustment
well, the windage sight was aligned with the "zero" alignment mark on the rear. the front sight has a allen head bolt that can be loosened to shift it. i assumed that the front sight is the issue because there was next to no wind yesterday. ill try tweaking it next chance i get to hit the range. its sad though, i dont have money to start reloading or to buy the hard to find ammo. so lord knows when ill get to shoot it again. i did save my brass though cause 1 day...1 day
anyone know of a detailed video of someone dis assembleing the rear sight? its quite stiff and was the only other part i didnt strip down completely. the step by step instructions are ok but i seem to do best with videos. took me watching a video 3 times to figure out the mosin bolt.
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As to adjusting the front sight, visually get an idea how much by moving the rear 14 clicks and note the displacement. You are right, move the front in the direction of the error the same amount of displacement and return your rear sight to where it was. The knobs are friction bound, Hold the knob and loosen the screw on the elevation knob a fraction...just maybe 30°. That should make it easier. I like mine stiff...prevents unwanted movement.
Front sight is moveable, thats why they made made the wide base Gas cylinders. Normally dont move the front sight for windage unless the rear sight is already adjusted way off center. Sometimes it takes a combination of both front and rear adjustments. Front sight towards bullet group for adjustment
Interesting. I looked at my front sight since I took all my stock pieces off to BLO the CMP stock that came with my Garand, and noticed the screw in it. But I thought it was just to remove it and not for any other adjustments. Good info then. I might want to readjust the front sight, so I can keep my windage rear sight adjustment closer to center if I'd need to make drastic adjustments for whatever reason.
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