[TXplt]

Quote:       Originally Posted by shooter1

I have used hoppies, rem oil, CLP breakfree, and currently use butches, very nice it just feels like it is slicker than any thing I have used in the past. I have read that you dont want to use wd-40. when exposed to high heat it will leave a very hard to remove layer of carbon on your guns metal parts. Shooter

Not so much carbon but I've heard possible varnish over time but otherwise for general use OK.

Also like Rem Oil as well for lighter oil than Break Free sometimes (Rem Oil has VCF corrosion inhibitor). Used Brownell's gun oil in the past which worked well and good viscosity but is a little pricey and harder to get because I have to ship it. MilPro fine too.

[ArkansasHunter]

I use what I can squeez out of my hair...Does perty good to. Make'sum slicker than snott on a greased door knob...A.H

[Jay]

I have used Kellube for years, and really like it. Regardless of temp....and few tiny drops will lube, but it will not run. It doesn't take much, either. A 1 oz bottle easily lasts me a couple of years. No adverse affects on alloys, polymer, rubber, or wood finishes.

Just my two cents......

Kustom Ballistics

[outlaw]

I have a Glock 27, and a XD .40. Right now I"am using Shooters Chitce.

(Larry)

[outlaw]

I hit the wrong key, I meant to say Shooters Choice.

[blueice]

Newbee question, where is oil used and grease? Thank you!

[Capt'n Mil Coll]

Quote:       Originally Posted by shooter1

I have used hoppies, rem oil, CLP breakfree, and currently use butches, very nice it just feels like it is slicker than any thing I have used in the past. I have read that you dont want to use wd-40. when exposed to high heat it will leave a very hard to remove layer of carbon on your guns metal parts. Shooter

Also I have had wd 40 gum up when it gets cold. Nothing worse then haveing to tear down a rifle when its bitter cold out and try to clean gummy oil out of it. Never had that problem with tri-flo.

[srt 10 jimbo]

Breakfree CLP

[Cyrano]

Gunzilla, by Top Duck. It is an organic CLP. I got turned onto it by a buddy who did a year in the Sandbox and told me that his platoon sergeant spent his own money to buy a case of it for the platoon. The gunny said (stripped of the profanity and pejoratives) that in more than 20 years in the Corps, it was the only stuff he'd ever found that would make the M-16 function the way Colt claims it does (which it doesn't) without stopping to clean the thing every 2 seconds. The platoon used it for cleaning and lubrication, and in a year of patrolling and combat they never had a jam.

That's enough of an endorsement for me. I can testify it does a super job cleaning up my Mosin Nagants after a range session. I haven't had a jam with any of my pistols since I started using it, either. If you think I'm throwing the bull, do this test.

Get yourself one of the little bottles of Gunzilla - they cost about $7 - and then clean your gun after a range session the way you always do. When you are satisfied it's clean, soak a patch in Gunzilla and run it through the bore a couple of times.

I guarantee that after you see the amount of gunk that Gunzilla patch pulls out of your "clean" firearm, you'll switch to it and never look back.

[TXplt]

Quote:       Originally Posted by blueice

Newbee question, where is oil used and grease? Thank you!

Grease is usually used either on shipping or first purchase of a firearm (as a corrosion inhibitor) where it MUST be removed from all chambers and bores and parts as the first cleaning before shooting (and it's a good idea for the rest of the firearm) or later to lubricate moving parts of the gun more effectively than oil (which can drain out over time). Many will lightly grease the rails and slide where it contacts the gun on an autoloader as well externally around the barrel assembly itself where it might contact the slide to preclude wear. Usually the slide is cycled a few times and excess grease becomes apparent and is wiped off. Most gun grease is in small plastic tubes or syringe type things and is sold next to the gun oil/cleaning supplies. Grease in general sticks well and is impervious to water.

Oil (or break free CLP, etc) is used for general lube; a light coat is applied by a patch for inside the bore/chamber and sometimes on and around springs and moving parts of an autoloader (hammer, etc). A light coat of oil is usually applied to all metal parts of the gun, and a drop or 2 at moving parts in an autoloader or revolver. Some guns (like the LCR) specify a few drops internally in a revolver in specific places; many maintain the inner works of a revolver not be oiled at all--your choice for your gun depending on the gun and lube type. Normally the moving parts of revolver around the cylinder and hammer, trigger, etc. are lightly oiled as well. Be careful not to overapply--most apply too much vice too little and there should not be a whole bunch of oil ever on the gun--it just gunks things up and acts as a crud magnet (and might cause low temp function problems depending on the type of oil). I would say Break Free is an exception in that we generally would soak the slides of our M9's and just shake them off and let the Break Free drain out and wipe them dry/clean and put them back together.

Hope that helps

[blueice]

Excellent post, TXplt! I will have to find those points of grease before we go ranging...

[Big Dog]

WD40 is NOT a lube. It is NOT a corrosion preventive.

It IS a 'water displacement' formula - get the gun wet in the rain, spray it with WD40 and wipe it down. THEN oil it properly.

[srt 10 jimbo]

Organic CLP? Is that edible?

[oilfield_trash]

I like the synthetic lube from LaRue Tactical.

[GlockMeister]

Quote:       Originally Posted by madcratebuilder

Glockmeister, your gun lube collection rivals mine. It's funny how that stuff collects I've been using EEZOX for about a year now and it's the best general lube I have seen to date. Tetra grease on 1911's and M1A's or when grease is called for.

LOL, sorry, didn't mean to make it seem like that was my collection. It is just a picture, the only one I could find, without taking and posting one myself, of the particular CLP I use. I was merely using the picture to show what the CLP I use looked like, can/label wise because like I said, I can't find it online anywhere.

But no, not all mine. lol And actually, those pictured are of all the ones this one website tested for rust inhibitor properties.

[jashoffa]

I saw a few mention they use Militec lube. I want to point out that Militec is a lube only. Most gun oils preform at least two functions, lubrication and moisture protections, some also act as a cleaner. CLP (cleans, lubes and protects). IMO, Mititec is only useful for enviorments that are very dry. The lube has gained favor with some troops serving in the sandbox. Mititec will not protection from moisture and some have questioned it's value as a lubricant. I personally have used it and can say that it seemed to work okay as a lube. I don't use it because I live in the midwest were my guns need to be oiled to keep them from rusting.

CLP is my lube of choice and I also use breakfree's collector oil which is a thicker oil but I use it in very small ammounts.

[GlockMeister]

Quote:       Originally Posted by Big Dog

WD40 is NOT a lube. It is NOT a corrosion preventive. It IS a 'water displacement' formula - get the gun wet in the rain, spray it with WD40 and wipe it down. THEN oil it properly.

Just in case you may have said something regarding WD-40 because you saw it in the picture I used in one of my posts, plus I saw it mentioned not to be used as well as gumming up problems I thought I'd point out and clarify that, I myself wasn't saying it is a lubricant (although I think the can says it is, just not the kind of lubricant a firearm would require and if it were all I had I would use it as something is better then nothing, and I'd have to look to see if the can says lubricant or not as I haven't seen or used it lately to remember what the can says, lol ) but it was only in the picture I used because as I said in my previous post to madcrate all in the picture are of ones this one website tested to check there, if any, rust inhibiting properties they may have...And I only used the picture because it has in it the CLP I use.


Just to clarify that I to don't agree with using WD-40 as a lubricant either. A water barrier, a rust remover (to a certain extent and or degree, kind of), and helping to loosen rusty bolts, nuts or screws, sure and again, to a certain extent or degree.

[PAPA G]

Quote:       Originally Posted by Big Dog

WD40 is NOT a lube. It is NOT a corrosion preventive. It IS a 'water displacement' formula - get the gun wet in the rain, spray it with WD40 and wipe it down. THEN oil it properly.

i beg to differ my friend, i have used WD40 on all my guns as a wipe for 40 years. and not one instance of rust no matter how humid things get. works for me

i also use 3n1 on my dad's guns, thats what he believed also no rust issues. now they are mine and i will use on them what dad would have.

[TXplt]

^ +1; also used it as the only oil on my guns for many years--never did get the varnish thing (although I knew it possible) and it worked great. Also never got any rust with guns I was using WD-40 on. I basically switched when I discovered I'd rather hose the gun down with break free than WD-40 -- largely driven from how well CLP worked on our M9's.

WD-40 still works pretty well for me as a sometimes substitute for other gun oils, a light oil (as well as water displacement) for general use, and in the initial degreasing/cleaning of guns which had been stored poorly or getting off the initial cote of Cosmo.

[Sooner Shooter]

My feeling on WD-40 is that it evaporates and is easily wiped off. I've also heard horror stories of barrels rusting terribly and witnessed one! As far as barrels go I never use any kind of oil on them but use the silicone cloths instead. Beeman is my silicone cloth of choice. I believe the main thing in rust prevention is to not let a gun sit too long without attention. Of course the way one stores it is probably the biggest factor.