So I bought the gun last week and I have just gotten around to cleaning it up, it's a Finnish M39 if anyone is curious. I get all the cosmoline off and reassemble, in hopes of going to the gun range tomorrow, however, the firing pin protrusion is reading out to be ~100 thousandsth with my calipers and the adjustment screw is backed all the way out.
I don't ahve a flat head screw driver small enough to adjust the screw so I have been using the bolt guide rail to screw the firing pin in and out, could this method be causing some kind of abnormality?
If not, what can I do to get the pin in the corect parameters?
do you have a Mosin Nagant tool kit? NOt sure what the protrusion should be but the tool has the notches in it. I'm pretty sure that the same tool has what you need to alter it.
Wish i could help more but i'm only new to the shooting game.. not just Mosin Nagants.
Bolt guide rail was used on every MN in the world for
screwing the firing pin in and out. Notch at the end of the firing pin is just a mark to align with notch on the cocking piece. It's not a slot for screwdriver. All you need to do is to screw in firing pin into the cocking piece until it stops (1) OR end of the firing pin is flash with the cocking knob (2), and then unscrew it just a bit to match notches.
Firing pin should be between between the 75 and the 95 notch with the screwdriver tool which is .075 and .095 with .085 being just fine.
It adjusts behind the bolt head...
Rich
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Parameters have been established. I have used the guide rod before to adjust firing pin protrusion. I once came upon a Mosin firing pin that would not budge that was slightly out of specs. I used a crescent wrench in place. But, depending on what type of MN tool you have, there should be a notch large enough to fit around the firing pin as well. Then adjust as previously stated to specs, and you should be good to go. Looking forward to see how well this rifle of yours shoots
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Last edited by Iron_Colonel; 11-21-2009 at 05:25 PM.
I don't have the "tear drop tool" I'm using the depth guage on a set of calipers and I have adjusted the firing pin all the way in (until it stops) and the line of the screw is not even to the hatch marks on the bolt, so I adjust it back to where they are even. That said, the calipers read .096-.100
take the bolt head off, the one with the ejector clip and the long bar will also come off, use the bar you will see that when put together the long bar fits around the firing pin, scew it in about 1 turn and line up the slot in the pin to the what appears to be cracks in the safety bolt, that is where you shound end up when done, all the lines in a line, clear as mud and HTH. Do you know how to break the bolt down??, if not sure search around you tube
"I don't have the "tear drop tool" I'm using the depth guage on a set of calipers and I have adjusted the firing pin all the way in (until it stops) and the line of the screw is not even to the hatch marks on the bolt, so I adjust it back to where they are even. That said, the calipers read .096-.100
I'm still not sure you know you aren't supposed to use a screwdriver. A set of calipers work fine for setting the depth.
You can use a screw driver, I use one all the time to adjust the firing pin protrusion. That's why the screw slot is back there.
Caopai, I don't know what to tell you. My M44 is the same way and it wont screw out any further but luckily it's set at the right protrusion. I'm going to hit you up on aim later on if you'll ever get back and maybe we can work something out, maybe if you could ever drive down here I could take a look at it.
You can use a screw driver, I use one all the time to adjust the firing pin protrusion. That's why the screw slot is back there.
Caopai, I don't know what to tell you. My M44 is the same way and it wont screw out any further but luckily it's set at the right protrusion. I'm going to hit you up on aim later on if you'll ever get back and maybe we can work something out, maybe if you could ever drive down here I could take a look at it.
screw slot? i got about eight mosins in the cabinet and none have what i would call a "screw slot". witness marks maybe, screw slots, no. have all mine been sanded down so far as to look like witness marks or has yours been ground so deep as to look like a screw slot?
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Yep, it's an old russian trick - sanding down screw slots so that capitalistic dogs who are messing with russian MNs get confused and can't easily set up firing pin protrusion. But thank God, one of Ivans got lazy (or too drunk) and missed one of MNs which was supposed to be sanded down, and this MN made it to the US in original condition with nice deep screw slot.
All my MNs were also brutally sanded down, like yours, so I'm missing on a great opportunity to stick screwdriver into the slot. Instead, I'm forced to twist that pin with bolt guide rod, like a simple peasant...
Looks like Finns also did the same thing.
I wonder what was their thinking?
Regardless of whether or not it is a screw slot, I'm glad to say that I took the gun to the range today and it shot safely with no busted primers, so I guess all is well.
I don't have the "tear drop tool" I'm using the depth guage on a set of calipers and I have adjusted the firing pin all the way in (until it stops) and the line of the screw is not even to the hatch marks on the bolt, so I adjust it back to where they are even. That said, the calipers read .096-.100
So I don't know what else I can do.
You need to back it off at least 1/2 more turn to Below .095 or you have too much compression on the firing pin spring and it makes it harder to open the bolt than it should be...Overcompressing the spring will lead to failure of that spring...
Rich
__________________
[I]You know you might be facing your doom,when all you get is a click when you're expecting a BOOM!:( [/I]
You need to back it off at least 1/2 more turn to Below .095 or you have too much compression on the firing pin spring and it makes it harder to open the bolt than it should be...Overcompressing the spring will lead to failure of that spring...
Rich
You need to back it off at least 1/2 more turn to Below .095 or you have too much compression on the firing pin spring and it makes it harder to open the bolt than it should be...Overcompressing the spring will lead to failure of that spring...
Rich
will one half a turn really make any difference? seems like you're moving the pin such a tiny amount that it wouldn't matter.
__________________ Badges? We got no badges! i aint gotta show you no stinking badges!
You can take the firing spring out out and cut 1, only 1, coil of the spring off with a set of dykes, smooth the end you cut, clean and put back together, there is a big diff. in the bolt by doing this, with all being equal!
