I have a American Security BF 6030. I did a lot of research and I liked the concrete material they use instead of drywall and the plate door. I wanted to buy a Graffunder Safe but they were just too expensive, but they are the nicest safes I have ever seen. I got mine from www.thesafeoutlet.com
Location: Colorado, with all the pot smoking libtards -_-
Posts: 4,151
Quote:
Originally Posted by GlockMeister
It's not if your safe is by any water pipes. It's when or if there is ever a fire and the fire hoses are needed. The high pressure can force its' way in to places you never knew were there or thought it would. And again, if you have a fireproof safe upon enough heat it will seal the door against both heat, flame and water. The area of concern as I said previously is if you have a dehumidifying rod.
Interesting! I hadn't thought of that! The safe I have would be completely sealed if there was a fire due to the door things that expand. I don't think water could get into it but it would suck if it did. There isn't a hole for a dehumidifier either so no worries there. O, I would think a hole for a dehumidifier would reduce the life for fireproofness to?
Either way, a safe is always better than no safe at all! There is a small possibility of fire damage or water damage with any safe but it would be a certainty without one...
__________________ Well done is better than well said - Benjamin Franklin
A Canon Series 30 gun safe. Unfortunately, the price as risen dramatically on these over the last 10 years.
When I bought this safe from Steve Rogers of Rogers Lures/Kansas City, he was just starting to sell safes. He told me then that over 30% of sales was to someone who had been "hit".
If you own a collection of any value at all (nearly all of us) get a safe!
The type is secondary to the fact that you have a safe for all but your HD guns.
Last edited by FortyXDM; 04-22-2010 at 02:26 PM.
Reason: correction
Armory 22 gun .I got a good price on it and thoght it would be big enough . MAN was I WRONG !
Always buy as big as you can afford .......It might take a minute but you will fill it up ...LOL!
__________________ I might not be playing with a full deck... But I am playing with a full clip!!! (gunnut2u)
I went a bit spendy on my "safe." I bought a Liberty Lincoln 25-gun safe. About $1800. I wish the body was thicker, but it has 4-sided bolt coverage and great over-center cam locking mechanisms with re-lockers and other drill protection features. I seen that someone mentioned Ft. Knox safes... I wouldn't go there. Not only are people confusing gun safes with cabinets, they are confusing "residential security containers" with a TRUE safe. I would never spend much more than $2000 on a RSC (like liberty, Ft. knox, whatever). Some of Liberty's line runs over $4000, but they still have the UL RSC rating, like Ft. Knox which are also very expensive. If you are buying an upper-end RSC, you may as well buy a lower-end SAFE. For a little more $$ and a lot more weight, you can get something real like a Graffunder or AMSEC safe.
In all reality, you spend what you think your collection is worth, but never spend $4K on a RSC rated container. Personally, I should have bought a Graffunder to protect what I have and what I plan to get; but the run-of-the mill smash and grab peeps might try to pry at my Liberty RSC with a screwdriver or crowbar for a few minutes then get their face smashed into the RSC with a butt-stock. And if I'm not home well.. they probably still wont succeed before daybreak.
Just as someone mentioned, never think a safe's weight is you're best feature.. It helps, but if someone knows of your safe and knows when you aren't home, all it takes is a pallet jack and anyone can tip the safe and move that thing wherever. This is why you should bolt the safe down; but even then, if the safe has external hinges it is possible to place a small bottle jack under the hinge and pry the safe off the floor, or use the wall (if it happens to be concrete) to pry at the back of the safe. Plus, if any of these processes can lift a safe, a heavy duty dolly and a 1- or 2-man crew can haul it wherever they please. Of course they would have to know some things about your safe before they go to your house, but remember that there are plenty of "friends" that like to steal your stuff.
Now it is true that no safe is perfect. Anyone with motivation and power tools will eventually crack any safe or RSC. If you live in town with lots of neighbors, then a $1500 RSC would be fine. The goal is to force the burglar to make a lot of noise and take time to open it. If you live in the country... well noise may not even be an issue. Get a real safe like Graffunder or AMSEC if your guns or precious metals are your investment. If you just have a decent collection then an RSC would work great, but in either case you should put them in a confined space where power and prying tools are useless. And if at all possible have a safe-mover put it down a flight of stairs.
This thread should be revived.. I've seen some pics of peoples' firearm collections and it's a little scary to see so little about security on this website. It only takes once to lose your investment..
I recently cleaned out the safe and put em into a vault I rent. It does have its drawbacks. I can only get rifles out when they say I can. I do not have them all at home to clean take pics of etc. But I have my 40 gun safe clear to put more in now. I had over 90 rifles and handguns in it. I also am not worrried someone will break into the vault.
I have various other safes as well.
Cant be too careful.
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I recently bought a Rhino Metals "Bighorn Classic" 24 gun safe from Costo. It's got some pretty nice features for a great price. 400 pound weight, external hinges, 10 Gauge steel construction, 2 internal relockers for around $500. I placed it in the master bedroom closet and bolted it to the floor with 1/2" stainless steel lag bolts. Works for me.
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Scott
S&W M&P 45FS
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