[herbert rogers]

Hello Dennis

The 222 Rimmed Super cases are generally a little on the hard end of the scale and to a degree not always concentric on the necks which does tends to increase to incidence of neck splitting. I have found reaming the necks and then anneal the neck and shoulder area is always beneficial to longer case life. The newer Bertram brass is a little better though not by much. I tend to cut my loads back slightly in the interest of case life plus the inherent weak Martini extraction and the problems with higher pressure during the hot summer period.

If I was building up a 222 or similar cartridge on the martini action then I would seriously look at incorporating a rimless extractor. I am considering a project on the Westley Richards and may even go down to 17 caliber.

I am not sure where you are located but if in Oz then there are a few gunsmiths who do the Martini in rimless. If you are in Oz and looking for a Greener, then there is one (Action only) for sale on the following site and located in Victoria. The price is a little steep but cheaper than most complete Cadets. Look under “Categories’” then “What’s New)

http://www.firearmsales.com.au/products/whatsnew/

Cheers
Herb Rogers

[Old Hilly]

Thanks for the info Herb. I had considered going to a rimless .222 round but then I thought I might as well just find some new brass and stay with what I have. That Greener is a little out of my price range at the moment. I suspect that if I bide my time, something will turn up.
What process do you use to anneal your case necks? I have heard of many strange systems, including dipping the case in molten lead or solder. I always thought solder would stick to clean brass but perhaps I am wrong?
Dennis.

[herbert rogers]

Hello Dennis,

I neck anneal my cases in molten bullet casting metal before resizing and with the spent primer left in to form an air pocket. I have made up a holder for 25 cases out of a piece of flat aluminium with holes drilled plus a wooden handle and looks an egg flip. Inside and outside case neck and shoulder area are cleaned with very fine steel wool then dipped in Lanotech oil and left to dry slightly. For the next part of the process I move outdoors to avoid the inevitable smoke. Load them into the holder and immerse the neck and half the shoulder for six to eight seconds then let them air cool standing on their rims. When cool check that no lead is adhering to the cased and if ok I run then through the case tumbler for an hour or so.

Starting with new cases and after the first firing I go through the processes to uniform the case length, rim thickness, flash hole diameter and neck reaming. For neck reaming I use either the now obsolete Lee Target Loader kit with the facility to inside neck ream and then check outside neck evenness on the Lyman outside neck reamer. Generally I have found this extends case life and avoids or reduces the incidence of case neck splitting.

Bertram took over the old Super manufacturing equipment and since then the rim dimensions are more consistent. In my Cadet 222 Rimmed the rims on the old Super cases sometimes were over diameter or had thick rims that would not chamber.

Cheers
Herb Rogers

[Old Hilly]

Thanks for the info Herb. I had thought about using one of those hot-air paint stripper type guns for case annealing, perhaps using some sort of carousel system that would take the case through a blast of hot air for a certain length of time and then drop the case onto something soft so that it could cool slowly. Having worked as an underground cable jointer for a few years I have no real desire to sniff anymore lead fumes, I probably have had more than my fair share already.
Thanks again,
Dennis.

[herbert rogers]

Hi Dennis,

I get the shivers too when handling lead. I spent sixteen years as a letterpress printer working mainly with type metal or linotype. The company sent us for medical checks every two years for a health check and blood test. We were aware of the consequences and luckily the managers made us aware of the need to wash hands before meals.

I don’t use the Cadet 222 Rimmed a lot these days, maybe a box or two a year and yes she is fun to shoot.

Cheers
Herb Rogers

[Old Hilly]

A Brno "Fox" in .222 Rem. came into the shop today, "Set" trigger and bridge mount for a scope and in good condition. I must say, I was tempted! Best to stick with the Martini though, the Brno is out of my budget. I even worry about some of the reloading we do. All the projectiles are lead, not jacketed.
Thanks again,
Dennis.

[ke4sky]

I have a BSA Cadet in .357 which is one of my favorite toys. My rifle was drilled and tapped for Unertl scope blocks and I have a straight-tube 6X small game scope on it. I use mine for testing .38 Special wadcutter target ammo. Best ammo shoots about an inch at 50 yards.

[mosineer]

Quote:       Originally Posted by ke4sky

I have a BSA Cadet in .357 which is one of my favorite toys. My rifle was drilled and tapped for Unertl scope blocks and I have a straight-tube 6X small game scope on it. I use mine for testing .38 Special wadcutter target ammo. Best ammo shoots about an inch at 50 yards.

Hi ke4sky,
My Cadet has not been drilled and tapped and though I would like that, I most likely will leave it as it is. What testing are you doing? With different loads? Sounds like your Cadet is a great shooter!! Got pics?? Love hearing stories and info on these sweet rifles. Seeing the pictures are great also.

Herb and Dennis,
The more I read your great posts, the more it amazes and inspires. The processes in the reloading the cartridges in your posts are pretty much beyond me at this novice stage of my reloading knowledge and experience. But hope you continue to share the info.
Found a Cadet in .22WMR but a bit pricey for me. Rattled on enough...

Good day to you all...Mos

[wunhunglo]

Hi Guys, quite a lot of info on the Martinis & Enfields at this site:

BSA Model No.4 Martini actioned rifle

[Old Hilly]

Well Mos, when it comes to reloading I am a complete novise also but I came across this old single shot converted P17 with a heavy "Black Mountain" target barrel (made in Lithgow, NSW, OZ.) and fitted with a nice target stock. I just had to take it home, it was lonley in the gun safe in the shop with all those young, small calibre rifles.
This meant I simply HAD to get some reloading dies, a Lee breechlock press and more stuff to screw to my workbench. All I need to do now is to get game enough to put some powder in a primed case and load up the P17. Better bring home some primers, hadn't I?
When all this happens I can then get some 5/8" to 7/8" adaptors so that I can use the Simplex dies for the 218 Mashburn Bee and get reloading for that also. Next comes the .222Rimmed........Lordy-be, I am going to be bussssssssy!
Dennis.

[mickasaurus]

hi guys just a newbee but got a martini in 7.62x39 russian this was done by allan swan in brissie and a great job too the original chamber was 30/357 which was a necked down 357mag case shot great but could not get dies or reloading info so had to make do with home made gear

[Old Hilly]

30/357? Now that sounds like a handy calibre. The more I see of these old rifles the more I learn about all the now-obsolete cartridges there were in the period between the wars and just after WW2. I guess it comes down to using what you could lay your hands on at the time and what was cheap.
Dennis.

[coastwatcher]

G'day,

great thread, great info.

I'm a Brisbane, Australia based newbie. I'm waiting on 'Permits to Acquire' for 2x Lithgow 1942 S.M.L.E (one all matching numbers - wood and steel, the other a reconditioned Heavy Barrel ), a Lithgow Model 1A, a Lithgow Slazenger Model 1B.

I have been bitten by some strange bug in regard to the S.M.L.E.'s and thought if I was going to have some .22's for small game, it would be nice if they were Lithgow S.A.F. also.

A nice little collection to pass on to my boy.

Much to learn, started by reading anything by Ian Skennerton on the No.1 MkIII.

I will be reloading at some stage (read: when I can afford the equipment) and hope to pick as many brains as possible on these forums and share what I am finding.

Good info. in the linked page below.

http://64.177.205.5/martini/cadet.htm

[reloader2]

sog had the martinni in 303 carbine and trhe 455 /? iwas trying to get a carbine but they ran out the day i ordered it. They did say they may get some more. I have a remington rolling block in 7mm, the bro-inlawhas a sharps in 45/70 and winchester in 223, i really wanted that 303

[JudiB]

Hope this post brings this thread back to the top. We have a Martini Cadet, rebarreled for .357mag., and has been well modified. Had it for over 20 years, and never knew who made it until this morning. This thread has given us a wealth of information. The gun is in excelent condition, considering it's age, which we didn't know until reading this thread. The sights have been removed and the scope added. Very accurate rifle, it can part the hair on a fly at 65 yards.

[Former 173rd]

Hello to all...New guy here, but not to shooting! Here is my question for all you folks in the know..Several years ago I acquired an almost perfect example of a BSA Cadet, even down to the sling and sight cover. I bought a set of 310 dies, a mold and have had a ball shooting her. Now I have second thoughts, and am thinking of some type of display for her. That said, what type of accessories came with her, and how does one find them? I'll try to post pictures later, and you'll see how superb she is! Thanks to all, and keep yer powder dry..