Cost to drill & tap Ruger Mark 1 Target Pistol?

Noboundaries · 04-09-2009, 12:32 AM

My eyes aren't what they used to be and have become a serious limiting factor for center-punching targets.

I can easily buy a rail for my new Buckmark Camper, but my Ruger Mark 1 Target pistol would have to be drilled and tapped (I believe that is the terminology) for a rail to be fitted.

Before I start calling gunsmiths, is it worth it? If so, any idea of the cost?

Thanks for your input.

Mooseman684 · 04-09-2009, 12:46 AM

Normal charges range from 50 to 90 bucks to drill and tap 2 holes and mount a rail..

Rich

Noboundaries · 04-09-2009, 12:58 AM

Thanks Rich.

jrswanson1 · 04-09-2009, 08:12 AM

They make one where you swap out one of the grip panels with a panel and scope mount combo. It's in the latest issue of Shooting Times.

Jim

Noboundaries · 04-09-2009, 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jrswanson1

They make one where you swap out one of the grip panels with a panel and scope mount combo. It's in the latest issue of Shooting Times.

Jim

Thanks Jim. I saw something like that on Midway. It may be the same accessory. Here's the link.

MidwayUSA - Aimtech 1-Piece Weaver-Style Base Ruger Mark 1, Mark 2 Matte

There is also one made by B-square that looks a little more traditional. Here's the link to that one.

MidwayUSA - B-Square 1-Piece Weaver-Style Scope Base Ruger Mark 1, Mark 2 Gloss

I saw both those and that's what prompted the drill and tap question.

Appreciate the input.

Ray

SwedeSteve · 04-09-2009, 03:14 PM

Thanks for the links !!

ZOBO · 04-09-2009, 03:21 PM

Noboundaries:
After doing a lot of homework on this very subject I decided on the Weigand ("no tap") system. It's solid and affordable.

ZOBO

jrswanson1 · 04-09-2009, 03:22 PM

I'm not a big proponent of making permanent mods to a firearm unless they're avoidable. I like the grip idea, it's hard to screw up.

Jim

DaTeacha · 04-09-2009, 08:13 PM

I drilled and tapped a Colt Trooper MkIII .357 for a scope back in the days before rails were invented. I used a 3/8" Craftsman hand drill, having no drill press. I ran one hole in the top strap near the barrel and the second through the rear sight cutout. I thought the screws were a little on the flimsy side so made the holes a little bigger, then tapped them for hardware store style screws which I reduced the head size on and then hardened using the recipe in Brownell's "Gunsmith Kinks" book. I mounted a Bushnell Phantom on it and proceeded to run some loads that knocked the crosshairs loose while spitting flames and hot lead out the barrel/cylinder gap. Bushnell was good enough to send me a brand new Magnum Phantom when I sent it in for repair - no charge! That gun/scope was good enough to let me hit a groundhog out at 135 yards.

The moral of the story here is that you can do it yourself if you have just a modicum of mechanical ability and some patience. I don't consider myself a skilled craftsman - handier than the average guy, but not highly skilled. The top strap of the Trooper is flat, whereas the Ruger is rounded, and that could cause you some little bit of difficulty, but I would be sorely tempted to try doing it myself. The scope would mount on an unstressed part on that gun and there isn't much recoil. Heck, you could probably almost hold the base on with a high quality glue or epoxy and have it work just fine. If someone has tried this and it didn't work, sound off!

Noboundaries · 04-09-2009, 08:34 PM

Thanks for the input guys. I actually just dropped the pistol off at a gunsmith to drill and tap the barrel and install a rail. We've been looking for a gunsmith and this guy's been in business for almost 60 years with a solid reputation. We've got a couple other guns that need a little work and this will be a good way to test the waters. My wife said "justify it any way you want. You just want to find another way to spend money on our guns."

She knows me so well (the 31st anniversary of our first date is April 15th).

DaTeacha · 04-10-2009, 11:44 AM

If he's been working on guns for 60 years and is still in business, he must be pretty good. The poor ones don't last very long.

Noboundaries · 04-22-2009, 11:34 PM

Got the Mark 1 Target back, drilled, tapped, and rail installed. I had him put a Mark III rail on it with three hole instead of the Mark I with two holes. Cost a little more for the extra hole, but I liked the fit better.

Now, trying to decide on a holographic sight. I like the TruGlo 8360B, but still shopping.

04-09-2009, 12:32 AM	#1
Noboundaries Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 394	Cost to drill & tap Ruger Mark 1 Target Pistol? My eyes aren't what they used to be and have become a serious limiting factor for center-punching targets. I can easily buy a rail for my new Buckmark Camper, but my Ruger Mark 1 Target pistol would have to be drilled and tapped (I believe that is the terminology) for a rail to be fitted. Before I start calling gunsmiths, is it worth it? If so, any idea of the cost? Thanks for your input. __________________ You are always smaller than anyone or anything that makes you angry.

04-09-2009, 12:46 AM	#2
Mooseman684 Super Moderator Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Alaska Wilderness. Unit 13 Posts: 11,318 Images: 2	Normal charges range from 50 to 90 bucks to drill and tap 2 holes and mount a rail.. Rich __________________ You know you might be facing your doom,when all you get is a click when you're expecting a BOOM!

04-09-2009, 12:58 AM	#3
Noboundaries Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 394	Thanks Rich. __________________ You are always smaller than anyone or anything that makes you angry.

04-09-2009, 03:14 PM	#6
SwedeSteve Suspected Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Anchortown, Alaska Posts: 23,576 Images: 1	Thanks for the links !! __________________ Thank God we don't get as much Government as we pay for! -Will Rogers

04-09-2009, 08:13 PM	#9
DaTeacha Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: near Funk, Ohio Posts: 2,915	I drilled and tapped a Colt Trooper MkIII .357 for a scope back in the days before rails were invented. I used a 3/8" Craftsman hand drill, having no drill press. I ran one hole in the top strap near the barrel and the second through the rear sight cutout. I thought the screws were a little on the flimsy side so made the holes a little bigger, then tapped them for hardware store style screws which I reduced the head size on and then hardened using the recipe in Brownell's "Gunsmith Kinks" book. I mounted a Bushnell Phantom on it and proceeded to run some loads that knocked the crosshairs loose while spitting flames and hot lead out the barrel/cylinder gap. Bushnell was good enough to send me a brand new Magnum Phantom when I sent it in for repair - no charge! That gun/scope was good enough to let me hit a groundhog out at 135 yards. The moral of the story here is that you can do it yourself if you have just a modicum of mechanical ability and some patience. I don't consider myself a skilled craftsman - handier than the average guy, but not highly skilled. The top strap of the Trooper is flat, whereas the Ruger is rounded, and that could cause you some little bit of difficulty, but I would be sorely tempted to try doing it myself. The scope would mount on an unstressed part on that gun and there isn't much recoil. Heck, you could probably almost hold the base on with a high quality glue or epoxy and have it work just fine. If someone has tried this and it didn't work, sound off! __________________ Teach NRA -- If you're reading this, you should be a member. United, We Stand.

04-09-2009, 08:12 AM	#4
jrswanson1 Senior Member Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 1,098	They make one where you swap out one of the grip panels with a panel and scope mount combo. It's in the latest issue of Shooting Times. Jim

04-09-2009, 03:21 PM	#7
ZOBO Banned Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 291	Noboundaries: After doing a lot of homework on this very subject I decided on the Weigand ("no tap") system. It's solid and affordable. ZOBO

04-09-2009, 03:22 PM	#8
jrswanson1 Senior Member Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 1,098	I'm not a big proponent of making permanent mods to a firearm unless they're avoidable. I like the grip idea, it's hard to screw up. Jim

04-09-2009, 08:34 PM	#10
Noboundaries Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 394	Thanks for the input guys. I actually just dropped the pistol off at a gunsmith to drill and tap the barrel and install a rail. We've been looking for a gunsmith and this guy's been in business for almost 60 years with a solid reputation. We've got a couple other guns that need a little work and this will be a good way to test the waters. My wife said "justify it any way you want. You just want to find another way to spend money on our guns." She knows me so well (the 31st anniversary of our first date is April 15th). __________________ You are always smaller than anyone or anything that makes you angry.

04-10-2009, 11:44 AM	#11
DaTeacha Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: near Funk, Ohio Posts: 2,915	If he's been working on guns for 60 years and is still in business, he must be pretty good. The poor ones don't last very long. __________________ Teach NRA -- If you're reading this, you should be a member. United, We Stand.

04-22-2009, 11:34 PM	#12
Noboundaries Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 394	Got the Mark 1 Target back, drilled, tapped, and rail installed. I had him put a Mark III rail on it with three hole instead of the Mark I with two holes. Cost a little more for the extra hole, but I liked the fit better. Now, trying to decide on a holographic sight. I like the TruGlo 8360B, but still shopping. __________________ You are always smaller than anyone or anything that makes you angry.