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Old 05-03-2008, 10:21 PM   #21
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Welcome to G&G Mack. We have a great bunch of folks here. Glad you found answers to your questions. Enjoy the site.
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Old 05-04-2008, 09:45 AM   #22
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Glad to hear you enjoy it Mack. Something you might try is shooting some of your light loads with the recoil system set for heavy, one of my three I shoot will cycle Win AA's without a hitch. Saves having to remember to switch things around
If it won't cycle light loads at the heavy setting, you must Always remember to reset it. The excessive battering from heavy loads at the light setting can damage the recoil cushion as well as other internal parts. I learned this with my first one. The cushion survived, but when I finally got it apart the carrier dog came out in fragments.
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Old 05-08-2008, 04:42 PM   #23
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Windwalker: Thanks for the welcome, sir!
Cowboy: I hear you on the recoil ring thing, I learned my lesson as well! Luckily, I only ran about 20-25 rounds through it on the wrong setting, and after setting it right (for heavy loads) it ran just fine. I field stripped it later and it wasn't cracked or bent in any way. I'm pretty sure it's not really a problem unless you submit it to more like 100+ rounds of heavy battering, am I right?
Anyway, I'm thinking about trying some reloadable solid brass shells. Does anybody have experience with these shells in an automatic?
I ran the serial number to Remington and they finally told me my gun was made in 1943, so that would make it relatively late-production.

Take Care,
Mack
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Old 05-08-2008, 10:00 PM   #24
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Can't say as to how the brass hulls would work, never heard of anybody useing them in an auto. At any rate, if they did function the gun you would have to full length size the hull prior to reloading it. Personally I'ld stick with plastic hulls. They're really not that expensive and will stand up to quite a number of reloadings if prudent load recipes are used.
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Old 05-17-2008, 07:15 PM   #25
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That's a good point, Cowboy...I was thinking about brass shells because I wanted to save on equipment, but the cost of the brass shells themselves kinda cancels that out.
Another question about the gun itself, though...I want a more versatile performance from the 11. The permanently Modified barrel is fine for most birds, but for Skeet and Turkey, etc, I'll need more choke variety. Would installing a historically-correct standard model Polychoke decrease the value of the gun? The barrel on this gun matches the serial # on the reciever. Would I be better off trying to find a whole different barrel in order to keep the original one pristine? A whole new gun, perhaps? Just something I was wondering about. I love the way this gun shoots so much that I want to be able to use it in more contexts. I shoot Skeet and Trap more often than real birds, anyway.

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Mack
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Old 05-18-2008, 08:26 PM   #26
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Were it mine, I wouldn't install a Polychoke. Not that they're ineffective, I just view them as butt-ugly. They detract from the graceful lines of a fine shotgun. Choke tubes are far and away the better choice IMHO. That and there are tubes which are steel shot compatible

As far as devaluing the gun. There's really not much collector demand for the 11's, but that's not saying what the future may bring. It's not for me, or anybody else, to tell you what to do with it. In the here and now, it's Your gun to do with as You see fit.

With the above having been said. Depending on the actual condition and whether your current barrel patterns well, you have put it on a pattern target haven't you?, I wouldn't molest it. Go ahead and check some of the auction sites just to see what a barrel might cost, also check with some of the guys here for references on having the choke tubes installed and price that also. The fellow who did my 11's is no longer in the business, and the one who did my A5 is not one I would recommend so I have no ref's right now.
Something else you might look at also would be to have the forcing cone lengthened a bit. This can improve the pattern, but it will reduce recoil somewhat. If you have this done, make sure they know what they are doing. If the forcing cone is reamed too long the recoil may be reduced enough to effect reliability of the gun.
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Old 05-19-2008, 06:02 PM   #27
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Thanks for bringing that up, Cowboy! I never even considered tubes...I didn't really think they could be installed in an old shotgun like that which didn't originally come with tubes. I've never really ran into the idea personally before, it's a good one though. Anyway, the reason I mentioned the polychoke in particular was that I know that it was in production back when the gun was, so I knew it would be "historically correct". Also, another thing about the screw in tubes you mentioned is that if I wanted, I could put in a Poly-Choke II, the one that just replaces a regular screw-in tube.
Thanks for the excellent idea!

-Mack
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