Cleaning an old, beatup SKS

PrivateSnuffy · 10-18-2007, 04:09 AM

Anyone have any tips? I wanna basically strip the thing down and sand everything, then repaint. There's a good amount of rust, but the thing does fire clean and rock

I think, with a good amount of work, the thing would look amazing

Big Dog · 10-18-2007, 05:08 AM

A good chemical stripper will minimise the sanding needed for the stock. Wal-Mart carries a stripper for 'antique furniture' that I like - not as caustic as some but still works very well.
Lots of mineral spirits to clean old cosmoline from the action, and 0000 steel wool. Add elbow grease, and you are all set!

Work outside (or spend nights in the doghouse! Wives don't have the priorities we do.) and wear rubber gloves.

PrivateSnuffy · 10-18-2007, 12:17 PM

what about the parts like the barrel and such, if i get steel wool, how do i repaint them? wood i can do, I'm pretty good at refinishing it, but I'm just worried if i steel wool the metal parts, they'll just rust back up

Big Dog · 10-19-2007, 04:54 AM

I have had very good results using Brownell's Alumahyde II spray finish. It's designed for guns, and the semi-gloss black looks like a decent military blue job - not too glossy but not dull. It takes a good week to cure, so don't be in too much hurry. Just degrease very well before spraying, and use a couple thin coats so as not to get runs.
I've done three guns with it, and after a few years of range visits, they sill look nice.

Triggerjerk · 10-19-2007, 06:44 AM

This will be a learning experience for you. I like to buy $50 .22 rifles and rework them. One very important tip that I can give you is to make sure that you have tuna cans or other containers for the little screws and parts. If you do not keep them enclosed they will roll off of your work bench. Trust me, you do not want to be on the floor looking for some tiny part that you knocked off the bench.

billy · 10-19-2007, 07:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Triggerjerk

This will be a learning experience for you. I like to buy $50 .22 rifles and rework them. One very important tip that I can give you is to make sure that you have tuna cans or other containers for the little screws and parts. If you do not keep them enclosed they will roll off of your work bench. Trust me, you do not want to be on the floor looking for some tiny part that you knocked off the bench.

i have some magnets on my bench for that.

PrivateSnuffy · 10-19-2007, 07:51 AM

yeah, haha, i've had that happen with computer stuff, when you finishing rebuilding one and screws are missing, you worry.

well phase 1 is almost done with, i disassembled the gun and sanded the stock. I used varnish remover and goot a good result, didn't kill the wood. After it stripped it off, i sanded it down

heres the result:

I still need to do touch up sanding, but so far so good. What would you folks recommend to seal it? linseed oil i hear is a good one for this.

I'm also gonna try just reblueing the thing, honestly that would turn out alot better. Thats really the next step, so hopefully it wont be to hard. The article i found looked pretty decent

If you have any opinions feel free to share and bash all my ways

toolman · 10-19-2007, 10:04 AM

PS, I recommend Watco Danish or Teak oil, it soaks into the wood and the dries to a hard finish so it actually hardens the wood and makes it a bit more resistant to nicks and dings. It also dries much faster than linseed. The Danish oil comes with tint mixed in so you can actually stain and seal at the same time. If you want a really tough finish, you can apply Brownell's Acra-Glas as a finish coat. This takes some work, and you need to decide if you'll ever want to refinish it again before doing it, but it is near bullet-proof when dry. If you want to reblue the metal, spend a few more $$$ and get a bottle of Brownell's Oxpho-Blu, it's the best cold blue on the market and leaves a tougher finish than the others.

PrivateSnuffy · 10-19-2007, 10:29 AM

thank you toolman!

I was just reading about teak and danish oil. I hope it can be picked up at a hardware store. As for the acra-glas, i'm going to try and find that somewhere local, if possible, but i might have to go online for it

Same with the Oxpho-blu

i'll post picks when i get the stock finished, should be today.

::::Update:::
got the teak oil and food out that a local hardware store has a form of the re-blu. it's a half gallon jug, but its around 21 bucks, figure i can lend it out to people for other projects.

half way through the teak oil process

PrivateSnuffy · 10-23-2007, 03:47 PM

FINISHED!
I was able to get all the coating done, take a look:

i clear coated the gun twice, and sanded between, came out with a good shiny coat. Very satisfied with it! I also did repaint the mag and upper receiver. I used actually grill paint, specifically meant for metal and high heat, and it work really well. I even dropped it and it still kept the paint, pretty durable stuff.

its a far cry from a week ago!

10-18-2007, 04:09 AM	#1
PrivateSnuffy Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 169	Cleaning an old, beatup SKS Anyone have any tips? I wanna basically strip the thing down and sand everything, then repaint. There's a good amount of rust, but the thing does fire clean and rock I think, with a good amount of work, the thing would look amazing

10-18-2007, 05:08 AM	#2
Big Dog Moderator Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Tallahassee, Florida Posts: 10,221	A good chemical stripper will minimise the sanding needed for the stock. Wal-Mart carries a stripper for 'antique furniture' that I like - not as caustic as some but still works very well. Lots of mineral spirits to clean old cosmoline from the action, and 0000 steel wool. Add elbow grease, and you are all set! Work outside (or spend nights in the doghouse! Wives don't have the priorities we do.) and wear rubber gloves. __________________ Moderator of: AR15/M16, M14/M1A, New/Beginning Shooters and Militaria/Collectables.

10-19-2007, 04:54 AM	#4
Big Dog Moderator Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Tallahassee, Florida Posts: 10,221	I have had very good results using Brownell's Alumahyde II spray finish. It's designed for guns, and the semi-gloss black looks like a decent military blue job - not too glossy but not dull. It takes a good week to cure, so don't be in too much hurry. Just degrease very well before spraying, and use a couple thin coats so as not to get runs. I've done three guns with it, and after a few years of range visits, they sill look nice. __________________ Moderator of: AR15/M16, M14/M1A, New/Beginning Shooters and Militaria/Collectables.

10-19-2007, 06:44 AM	#5
Triggerjerk Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: New Hampshire Posts: 978	This will be a learning experience for you. I like to buy $50 .22 rifles and rework them. One very important tip that I can give you is to make sure that you have tuna cans or other containers for the little screws and parts. If you do not keep them enclosed they will roll off of your work bench. Trust me, you do not want to be on the floor looking for some tiny part that you knocked off the bench. __________________ We old dogs can learn new tricks. We just may not like performng them. TJ Last edited by Triggerjerk; 10-19-2007 at 06:47 AM.

10-19-2007, 10:04 AM	#8
toolman Mr. Fixit Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: abilene,tx Posts: 5,582 Blog Entries: 22	PS, I recommend Watco Danish or Teak oil, it soaks into the wood and the dries to a hard finish so it actually hardens the wood and makes it a bit more resistant to nicks and dings. It also dries much faster than linseed. The Danish oil comes with tint mixed in so you can actually stain and seal at the same time. If you want a really tough finish, you can apply Brownell's Acra-Glas as a finish coat. This takes some work, and you need to decide if you'll ever want to refinish it again before doing it, but it is near bullet-proof when dry. If you want to reblue the metal, spend a few more $$$ and get a bottle of Brownell's Oxpho-Blu, it's the best cold blue on the market and leaves a tougher finish than the others. __________________ Don't be messin' with my gun!

10-18-2007, 12:17 PM	#3
PrivateSnuffy Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 169	what about the parts like the barrel and such, if i get steel wool, how do i repaint them? wood i can do, I'm pretty good at refinishing it, but I'm just worried if i steel wool the metal parts, they'll just rust back up

10-19-2007, 07:51 AM	#7
PrivateSnuffy Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 169	yeah, haha, i've had that happen with computer stuff, when you finishing rebuilding one and screws are missing, you worry. well phase 1 is almost done with, i disassembled the gun and sanded the stock. I used varnish remover and goot a good result, didn't kill the wood. After it stripped it off, i sanded it down heres the result: I still need to do touch up sanding, but so far so good. What would you folks recommend to seal it? linseed oil i hear is a good one for this. I'm also gonna try just reblueing the thing, honestly that would turn out alot better. Thats really the next step, so hopefully it wont be to hard. The article i found looked pretty decent If you have any opinions feel free to share and bash all my ways

10-19-2007, 10:29 AM	#9
PrivateSnuffy Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 169	thank you toolman! I was just reading about teak and danish oil. I hope it can be picked up at a hardware store. As for the acra-glas, i'm going to try and find that somewhere local, if possible, but i might have to go online for it Same with the Oxpho-blu i'll post picks when i get the stock finished, should be today. ::::Update::: got the teak oil and food out that a local hardware store has a form of the re-blu. it's a half gallon jug, but its around 21 bucks, figure i can lend it out to people for other projects. half way through the teak oil process Last edited by PrivateSnuffy; 10-19-2007 at 02:21 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

10-23-2007, 03:47 PM	#10
PrivateSnuffy Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 169	FINISHED! I was able to get all the coating done, take a look: i clear coated the gun twice, and sanded between, came out with a good shiny coat. Very satisfied with it! I also did repaint the mag and upper receiver. I used actually grill paint, specifically meant for metal and high heat, and it work really well. I even dropped it and it still kept the paint, pretty durable stuff. its a far cry from a week ago!