Quote:
Originally Posted by
EddieB 
| I need to do something to it to fix the rust its acquired. I'll try here in a little bit to find my camera and get some pictures of it for you. |
Hello Eddie
Before
I shoot any of my Newly acquired S&W used revolvers that I Purchase, I take them apart and make sure they are
clean and ready to perform. I don't know if you are
familiar with Taking a K-22 apart so I will run you through the steps as how I do this Process with all my S&W revolvers.The best thing to use on
Bluing that has
rust Present is 0000 Steel wool and
a good Gun Oil. I only User
Corrosion-X Gun Oil as it stops all rust dead in it's Tracks but if you are slim on selection
Rem-Oil or Hoppes Gun Oil will work but not do the job that Corrosion-X will do. When trying to
remove to Neutralize the Rust Do not be afraid to
lay on that steel wool as it will not Hurt anything other than the rust once you apply the Gun Oil , work it Hard with that 0000 steel wool.
Wal-Mart sells the
0000 Steel wool in a sleeve Package and it is Cheap. If the gun is real Nasty with
Old Oil and grim I would suggest first a good cleaning with what I Like to use
Gumout Carburetor Cleaner. It will do everything the more expensive Gun Cleaners do for much less and the results are far more superior removing all the Grime and grunge. Before you get started it is best to remove the guns
grip's so any of the cleaning agents will Not attack their finish. Unscrew the flat headed grip screw, Until it feels Like it is backed all the way out of the Threads but
do NOT remove the screw yet as it has one more job to do before removing it from your grips. Once the screw is backed all the way out of the Threads Take the gun and set it in your Lap and Place the blade of the screw driver on the flat screw head and
apply pressure Pushing off the Opposite Grip Panel from it's Frame Mounting Pin. You will feel it when it clears the frame. Now flip the gun over and use your Index finger to
push off the Opposite Panel. Many Make the Mistake of trying to
Pry off the grips and this either damages the wood or splits the grips doing it that way, or worse Yet slip with the screw driver and
scar their Bluing finish forever. I would advise that you find a good straight bladed screw driver before you start that fits the most f
orward side plate screw Tightly and feels secure. This screw when removed will allow you to open the Guns cylinder and by
Pulling forward while the crane is in the wide open Position will allow the
removal of The Crane assembly and cylinder from your K-22. Be sure to Not Loose the cylinder crane side Plate screw while it is apart I usually set the screw in the
Cap of the Carb cleaner for safe keeping. Once the crane and cylinder are removed from the main Frame of the revolver, Pull the Crane over the cylinder extractor rod to separate the two.The extractor can also be removed from the cylinder. It should be
Right hand threads as S&W did not change over to left hand Threads until
the Mid 1950's. If the extractor has not been unscrewed from the cylinder since it left the factory it can
be a challenge Breaking it Free.
Do NOT Place any Pliers on the Knurled part of the extractor because this will damage the Knurling forever and many make this mistake and it can not be fixed once it is damaged
without replacement. I have in the Past before I got an Extractor Rod tool, Used
a leather waist belt to protect the Knurling on The extractor. Place a Belt around the Knurled Part and then use a set of good Pliers over the leather belt and unscrew your extractor from the cylinder. Don't Be concerned if
you have to really Bear down on the Piers to break the extractor loose as they can be very tight and the use of the leather belt will allow removal with Out Damage Once it is apart pay close attention of
how it all comes out of your cylinder when taking is apart and place it on your work bench the exact way it came apart for easy replacement back in the cylinder once the cleaning process is over. Use a rag and Soak it with the Carb cleaner. Clean all the Parts along with springs from Inside the extractor and set them aside for now. Be sure once the extractor rod is Pulled from the cylinder that you push the extractor which id the
star shaped part that the rounds lay against on the face of the cylinder and clean it well top and bottom along with
the Recessed machined face of the cylinder it fits down into as this are is Notorious for catching Burnt Powder and crud and it Often makes cylinder closing a chore once it has gotten
built up with Burnt Powder and crude, and in time Can
bind up your action while cycling it to the next round. The Star extractor has
a Channel that fits only one way back into your cylinder, so you will have to Line up this channel and it rests down over Two
small Location Pins once it is close to the face of the cylinder. I would Imagine the face of the cylinder along with the bores of it will need hard cleaning. I use a bronze Bristle brush for this and Hoppes Number Nine gun cleaner. If it is stubborn to get real clean get your self some
"Chore Boy" scouring Pad's from the Grocery store. These are
Copper scouring pads and will
NOT harm your Bluing. They are very effective at removing
old lead and burnt Powder and leave behind a nice cleaned Blued surface. Use a Bronze Bore brush in the Internal Barrel bore with Plenty of Hoppes gun cleaner. It may take Six or eight times to rid the barrel of excessive lead build up and burnt Powder as
the .22 Caliber round is the most filthy round out there. You can also clean the forcing cone
{The Business end of the barrel that is directly in front of the Cylinder, and screwed into the main Frame} with Hoppes number nine and the Bronze brush while the cylinder is out, it makes this chore a Cinch, and there is enough room to get a cotton cleaning patch
up between the forcing cone and the Upper revolver top strap to rid it of Lead and Burnt Powder as well. You can also clean the recoil shield area of your revolver,
{Back by the firing Pin} with Hoppes and the brush as well. Now wipe it all down good and if you want to lubricate the Internals of the revolver with gun Oil, it is easy to do by simply letting a couple of drops of Gun Oil
seep down on Both sides of the hammer. This will eventually find it's way to all the Internals of the revolver and keep them working fine, and you really do not want to
over Lubricate the Internals as it serves no purpose other than making
a mess by leaking out when you are firing the revolver from recoil. take the extracroe star and line up the Channel I spoke of earlier. It will go in when it is Lined up perfect. Now you can add a couple of drops of Gun Oil to the crane tube then Put your extractor rod back in the cylinder the way it came apart and compress it to the Point to where you can get it
to thread itself back in the cylinder, Then Place the crane back over the extractor rod, Making it fit flush back into the cylinder and Place The cylinder and Crane assembly back in the main Housing of the revolver. Put back the side plate front securement screw, and
Tighten it up then close up the cylinder. Place your Grips back on the frame and
take down the securement screw tightly. Wipe the entire gun off with a clean soft towel and apply a Light coat of Oil to keep it looking Great. Your K-22 should be ready to
enjoy and fire now that it is clean. I hope this help's
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Hammerdown
