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Old 08-21-2010, 03:37 PM   #41
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Yours isn't bad of the ones I've seen but I doubt its cheap and I am trying to keep the rifle as bare and simple as possible, a hand crafted buttstock sleeve ruins that look a bit. I think I'll try it without and perhaps if that isn't working well look into a cheek pad?
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Old 08-21-2010, 03:40 PM   #42
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Mine was really cheap! It was made for m by the webmaster on my home forum. The quick mount ones are no more than $10 or so. Anyway that scope might not even need one.

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Old 08-21-2010, 03:42 PM   #43
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Let's wait till monday when I make my scope decision. I'll be sure to get pics up when its all complete. Is the best place to buy GP11 still surplusammo.com?
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Old 08-22-2010, 07:07 AM   #44
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Twister, if you're asking me, I have no idea about GP11 sales, availability or sources. A long time ago my Dad bought somewhere between 4 and 5,000 GP11 in the original packaging direct from Switzerland. We don't shoot it at all. Everything that goes downrange here is one of our own Berger VLD 175gr reloads in RUAG brass.
Just check around the various Swiss boards. I'm sure you'll find the best deals that way.

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Old 08-23-2010, 09:19 AM   #45
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You have a PM

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Old 08-25-2010, 08:58 AM   #46
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Check the ammofinder site, I think the best price on GP11 is about .47-.48 a round shipped.
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Old 08-28-2010, 10:04 PM   #47
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Scope is mounted, sight in will be tomorrow at the range. I have a question though. Who has experience with THIS scope that can explain to me all of the markings on the knobs? And the allen wrench that comes with it? I am only familiar with simple 1/8" adjustment scopes where you twist it to zero and keep it there. Can somebody explain the markings and function of all the adjustments on this scope? I'll upload a pic of what I'm talking about shortly.

EDIT:



What are the horizontal incriments in the middle? how do you use them in combination with the mil dots?



What does adjusting using the allen wrenches do? It seems to crank the knob no differently than if I just used my hands to change them.

I'm sure these are midly idiotic questions but I have very little experience with scopes other than cheapy .22 ones where you adjust once and kentucky windage for anything else.

Thanks.

Last edited by twisterx44; 08-28-2010 at 10:54 PM.
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Old 08-29-2010, 11:49 AM   #48
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Quote:       Originally Posted by twisterx44 View Post


Scope is mounted, sight in will be tomorrow at the range. I have a question though. Who has experience with THIS scope that can explain to me all of the markings on the knobs? And the allen wrench that comes with it? I am only familiar with simple 1/8" adjustment scopes where you twist it to zero and keep it there. Can somebody explain the markings and function of all the adjustments on this scope? I'll upload a pic of what I'm talking about shortly.

EDIT:



What are the horizontal incriments in the middle? how do you use them in combination with the mil dots?
Complete rotations of knobs.



What does adjusting using the allen wrenches do? It seems to crank the knob no differently than if I just used my hands to change them.
Once sighted in, loosen allen screw, lift knob and move the zero to indicator, re-tighten allen screw. You now have a starting zero at your chosen distance.

I'm sure these are midly idiotic questions but I have very little experience with scopes other than cheapy .22 ones where you adjust once and kentucky windage for anything else.

Thanks.
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Last edited by diopter; 08-29-2010 at 11:55 AM.
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Old 08-29-2010, 02:07 PM   #49
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Ohh I see...so should I put it at a zero that's halfway up and halfway down, and halfway left/halfway right so I have room either way? Also what's the point of having both adjustable target knobs that return to zero AND mil dots?
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Old 08-30-2010, 08:31 AM   #50
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Twister...... You have email and you need to clear your messge center. Its full and won't accept messages.

And go here....... http://www.mil-dot.com/

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Old 08-30-2010, 09:54 AM   #51
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Quote:       Originally Posted by twisterx44 View Post
Ohh I see...so should I put it at a zero that's halfway up and halfway down, and halfway left/halfway right so I have room either way? Also what's the point of having both adjustable target knobs that return to zero AND mil dots?
Did that scope not come with instructions?
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Old 08-30-2010, 10:13 AM   #52
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We have two of them and both came with instructions. Maybe his was missing??

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Old 08-30-2010, 02:27 PM   #53
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Mine came with a very rudimentary instruction sheet.
This is much better:
http://www.bushnell.com/manuals/rifl...205LIM_WEB.pdf
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Old 08-30-2010, 02:35 PM   #54
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Mine came with instructions for a different scope, and how to calculate distance, or range a target, using MILs. However I scoured all the paper in that box, and nothing about my target knobs. The instructions for the scope itself, how to mount it, how to adjust it...must have been for a different scope. They were talking about unscrewing the covers and clicking them left and right, etc. A little strange. it was also talking about the variable powers and how you have to be at 12X for calculating distance, or 6x and halve your calculations. Anyway, point is, nope for some reason I didnt get correct instructions.

BUT. I figured it all out, thanks to the help of a friendly gunshop owner here in town. I took it out to the range, and ended up blowing 65 rounds downrange. After about round 25 my shoulder became quite sore so I continued firing with a small sandbag between the rifle and my shoulder. Call me a whimp but I need my mobility the day after! I'm sore as is. Does anybody have a recommended butt pad? I have this cheapy brown one that doesnt do all that much for me. Looking for something a little more shock absorbant!

Here are a few range pictures (They're at the bottom as attachments). The one of the nice grouping is 3 rounds at 100 yards. I had many groups like this one, but this one I took home because it was the best. However I give you my word I had 3-4 other 3 shot groups quite similar, some with one flier a half inch apart or so. This rifle is incredible! I did notice (unless it was just me becoming fatigued) that after the rifle got a little hot, say after 15 rounds in a 10ish minute period, the groups became far less tight. Is this a shooter issue or is that common for a rifle like this?

Thanks, and glad I got everything I needed to hit the range and get groups like this!

Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20100829_152639.jpg (1.10 MB, 22 views)
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File Type: jpg IMG_20100829_175533.jpg (1.04 MB, 21 views)
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Old 08-30-2010, 02:44 PM   #55
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You probably need both of these.

Graf & Sons - SWISS PRODUCTS K-31 BUTTPLATE ADAPTER


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Last edited by Latigo; 08-30-2010 at 02:47 PM.
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Old 08-30-2010, 02:46 PM   #56
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So the adapter merely allows the attachement of a buttpad? Cool. Does anybody have a recommendation for a good recoil absorbing buttpad that isn't 5 inches long? Don't want it to screw up my eye relief or I'll have to move my scope and rezero.

Second, you guys make like 3 or four muzzle brakes/dampers, what are the different ones designed to do and why did you recommend to me the one you did?

Thanks!


PS Isn't SOMEBODY gonna say "Hey! For all those dumb questions you asked, you can shoot alright!" or something? So disappointed.

Last edited by twisterx44; 08-30-2010 at 02:52 PM.
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Old 08-30-2010, 03:13 PM   #57
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There are only two. We make both of them. One is threaded on and the one I pictured is a clamp-on type.
The threaded one requires that you buy the threading kit or go to the swiss rifles forums and sign up to borrow the Forum's member Threader. Neither of them affect accuracy at all but reduce felt recoil like you wouldn't believe.

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Old 08-30-2010, 04:08 PM   #58
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Do they affect max effective range?
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Old 08-30-2010, 04:43 PM   #59
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They affect nothing but recoil.

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Old 08-31-2010, 08:53 AM   #60
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The SP butt pad adapter is very easy to install.



Add the SP brake and you well not need that sand bag. It really reduces felt recoil.

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