Saiga Magazine Feeder Conversion

[Chris]

We will start out our conversion with a standard Saiga carbine, in this case, one that is chambered for .223 Remington (aka 5.56 NATO or 5.56x45).
A word on this chambering: .223 Remington/5.56 NATO/5.56x45 is one cartridge. While the military has different ways of measuring pressure than industry, physics does not change. If a 55 grain projectile from a .223 Remington cartridge leaves a given barrel at 2800fps and a 5.56 NATO cartridge dispenses its 55 grain projectile at the same velocity, then the mean pressure for both cartridges is roughly the same. Fortunately, for military rifle shooters this is true. The main difference between .223 Remington and 5.56 NATO is the chamber dimension specification. Military chambers are cut larger than commercial chambers in order to remain functional in the presence of the dirty environment of combat.
Now, let's get to work.
The first step is to field strip the weapon. Here is what we are going to do:
1. Remove the magazine.
2. Check to see the weapon is unloaded.
3. Remove the dustcover.




4. Remove the recoil spring assembly.


5. Remove the bolt and bolt carrier assembly.

Next, we remove the furniture from the weapon:
1. Remove the tang screws from the buttstock.



2. Tap the buttstock off (gently) with a padded hammer.
3. Remove the fore end retainer screw.
4. Slide the hand guard off.

Now it is time to make the permanent changes to the receiver.[BREAK=Step 2]

Saigas are AKs with sporter stocks. This configuration allows them to be legally imported with a low capacity magazine. In order to accommodate this configuration, the designers at Izhmash Arsenal built a transfer bar mechanism and altered the standard trigger to work with it. Other than that, the internals are like any other semiautomatic AK.

If you have questions about the legality of this conversion, now is the time to stop. You can get all of your questions answered at the BATF website. It is my belief that the conversion performed on these pages conforms to the letter and the spirit of the law.

OK. Now we are ready for some surgery.

While I will be using my mini-mill for this step of the project, there are a number of other options. In order of preference, they are a drill press, an hand drill, a DREMEL tool, or hand tools.

The first thing we are going to do for this step is to remove the internal parts from the receiver.

1. Remove the sporter trigger and hammer axles. This is done by carefully removing the expanded shoulder on the side opposite the head. I used a hand drill and a 1/4 inch bit. Be very careful not to drill into the receiver! Drill on the right hand side, and drift the pins out from right to left.

Notice how the receiver is supported at the trigger guard and right side (bottom) with blocks of scrap wood. This is to keep the receiver from rocking while I drill.

In the next picture, you can see that I only drilled enough to remove the expanded shoulder of the rear pin, and not into the receiver.

2. Punch out the axles and remove trigger and transfer bar parts (save the springs!). The rear pin is the trigger pin and the trigger will fall out as soon as the pin is removed. The forward pin holds the bolt hold open (BHO) lever spring, and the spring will put tension on the pin as you drift it right to left. Just get the forward pin started, and if it binds, just pull it out from the left side with a pair of pliers.

When the pins are out, discard them.

3. Remove the standard fire control group axles and remove the hammer, disconnector, and springs. After the trigger falls out, you will have to remove the front pin retention spring (see picture below). It may take a little elbow grease and needle nose pliers, but be careful and do not deform it.

4. After the retention spring is out, you will have to remove the safety lever. It will take some wiggling and twisting to get it out, but do not force it. Rotate the safety lever up. From the inside of the receiver, you can see how to work it through the keyhole.

5. Remove the permanent fire control pins by pushing them out right to left. You should not have to force them. If they bind a little, pry or pull them out from the left side.

Once the two permanent pins are out, and the rest of the fire control parts are out, basic disassembly is complete and it is time to move on to the more complex aspects of disassembly.

I did not write this article

[Big Joe]

Hello Chris,

Thanks for the information on the modifications for the Saiga. I am going to make these mods to my .223 Saiga once I get the necessary parts (to be compliant), do you have the rest of the information (with photos) for the remaining mods on the Saiga?

Thanks,

Big Joe