[Erroll]

I currently have a model 100 carbine that I rec`d from my older brother`s family.
( previously owned a 22 inch barrel model 100 in the early 70`s )

There are serious problems associated with both of these rifles.

You must repace the firing pin. ( this is under recall warranty.)

They have a long history of jammimg . This is a result of many factors.

A. must clean the gun fully every year. Take it to a good gunsmith. They will usually take them apart for cleaning and will replace any worn or weakened parts, including springs.

B. check the magazine . The early ones were very poor. Even today , spring should be checked every season .

C. do not use model 88 in the same caliber as they tend to feed badly and bolt will not pick up the next shell causing the need to repeat manually.

D. The info provided by Wisner Home Page deals with almost every prob lem.

Please be very careful if you have n ot replaced the firing pin. Even though it was not me or my gun, i have been present where a model 100 fired with safety on.

I have had a model 742 BDL lefthanded Remington for 30 plus years. I don`t believe it has jammed more than once over that time period. the newer one`s are not as good.

Erroll

[.22hustler]

Quote:       Originally Posted by Erroll

I currently have a model 100 carbine that I rec`d from my older brother`s family. ( previously owned a 22 inch barrel model 100 in the early 70`s ) There are serious problems associated with both of these rifles. You must repace the firing pin. ( this is under recall warranty.) They have a long history of jammimg . This is a result of many factors. A. must clean the gun fully every year. Take it to a good gunsmith. They will usually take them apart for cleaning and will replace any worn or weakened parts, including springs. B. check the magazine . The early ones were very poor. Even today , spring should be checked every season . C. do not use model 88 in the same caliber as they tend to feed badly and bolt will not pick up the next shell causing the need to repeat manually. D. The info provided by Wisner Home Page deals with almost every prob lem. Please be very careful if you have n ot replaced the firing pin. Even though it was not me or my gun, i have been present where a model 100 fired with safety on. I have had a model 742 BDL lefthanded Remington for 30 plus years. I don`t believe it has jammed more than once over that time period. the newer one`s are not as good. Erroll

When you say to not use the 88 in the same caliber, do you mean to say do not use the 88 mag in the 100??? I have a 88 in .308 and it's been a pleasure to own; never any feed problems or jams. The 88 likes to be operated rather harshly, and babying it while cocking will cause a jam, sometimes. Mine never has,I've read this in a 88 forum.

[Crockett]

If uou need anything or gunsmithing for a model 100 contact Nu Line guns 1-573-676-5500 They bought all the winchester parts for this rifle. and have repaired nearly 8000 of them. They are the Guru's of the model 100

[matt760]

Im glad I got rid of mine. Traded it for a Ruger P94.

[BigBlack]

glad I still have mine, a family heirloom pass down from dad. Both of my 100's are fixed now and work very well.

[Pumpkinheaver]

Quote:       Originally Posted by BigBlack

glad I still have mine, a family heirloom pass down from dad. Both of my 100's are fixed now and work very well.

If you don't mind sharing with us, who did the work on your rifles?

[BigBlack]

Quote:       Originally Posted by Pumpkinheaver

If you don't mind sharing with us, who did the work on your rifles?

Mine did not have major problems. My 308 would slam fire so I started researching it and found out about the firing pin recall. I did the recall at the same time myself on the 243 and 308. Even after the recal the 308 would still slam fire. I swapped the trigger assemblies and then the 243 would slam fire so I knew the problem was in the trigger assembly. Measuring each part in the trigger assembly I found where the previouse owner before my dad had filed away on the trigger. I fixed that and thus fixed my 308.

now the 243 was the rifle my dad used. It had got even before the recall where it would not eject the casings. I found that the bolt would not close completely and fully engauge the extractor. Another dissasembly and a polishing of all the bolt parts, relubbing and reassembly fixed this. Seems it had got some very minor corrosion that was causeing the bolt head to hang.

[.22hustler]

Quote:       Originally Posted by BigBlack

Mine did not have major problems. My 308 would slam fire so I started researching it and found out about the firing pin recall. I did the recall at the same time myself on the 243 and 308. Even after the recal the 308 would still slam fire. I swapped the trigger assemblies and then the 243 would slam fire so I knew the problem was in the trigger assembly. Measuring each part in the trigger assembly I found where the previouse owner before my dad had filed away on the trigger. I fixed that and thus fixed my 308. now the 243 was the rifle my dad used. It had got even before the recall where it would not eject the casings. I found that the bolt would not close completely and fully engauge the extractor. Another dissasembly and a polishing of all the bolt parts, relubbing and reassembly fixed this. Seems it had got some very minor corrosion that was causeing the bolt head to hang.

Great info.. Thanks for posting.

[mac49]

Hello I am mac. I inherited a model 100-308 from my dad. I too am trying to track down it's particulars. I know that the walnut stocks pre 1964 were checkered. After 1964 one source said 2 styles were available,a basket weave intro. 1964 as well as the straight line checkered. there was no recoil pad as origonal, mine has the front site guard missing. I think I remember Dad removing it to mount the scope. He no doubt placed it where he would not forget it and mom pitched it after he passed away. The serial number is 1277 and my mother confirms it was after 1964 and it cost a godawful amount of money even then. Hope it helps you out and Winchester or a authorised dealer might be able to date it for you.

[BigBlack]

Quote:       Originally Posted by mac49

Hello I am mac. I inherited a model 100-308 from my dad. I too am trying to track down it's particulars. I know that the walnut stocks pre 1964 were checkered. After 1964 one source said 2 styles were available,a basket weave intro. 1964 as well as the straight line checkered. there was no recoil pad as origonal, mine has the front site guard missing. I think I remember Dad removing it to mount the scope. He no doubt placed it where he would not forget it and mom pitched it after he passed away. The serial number is 1277 and my mother confirms it was after 1964 and it cost a godawful amount of money even then. Hope it helps you out and Winchester or a authorised dealer might be able to date it for you.

1277 would be a 1961 model

http://armscollectors.com/sn/windates.htm

[MARS1970]

I just got my fathers model 100 and I am sure it hasn't been repaired.I have heard of the recall and am wondering if I can still send it back and have it fixed?Wished I had known of the defect b4 I shot it yesterday.
Also I was hoping someone can tell me when this gun was made.The numbers on the barrel are A207693.

Thanks MARS

[dnorviel]

Quote:       Originally Posted by gibsonlp24

bought a model 100 a little while back and i am not sure what year it is from...serial number 12XXX...i have heard about a recall but i cant find any information. i had shot it before i heard and it was fine but i would like to know about it...also any other info about this rifle would be appreciated...thanks

i have a model 100 also. there is a recall on the firing pin. mine is now fixed, working fine and didn't cost me anything. call 573-438-2030 if you need anymore info. glad to help

[DUGABOY1]

Quote:       Originally Posted by gibsonlp24

bought a model 100 a little while back and i am not sure what year it is from...serial number 12XXX...i have heard about a recall but i cant find any information. i had shot it before i heard and it was fine but i would like to know about it...also any other info about this rifle would be appreciated...thanks

The Winchester Mod 100 "RIFLE" was made from 1961 to 1973 so it really is not an issue, because they weren't made long enough to be one different from the other by year. However if it is the Win Mod 100 "CARBINE" it was made between 1967 and 1973. The carbine had a shorter 19" barrel and a steel band around the forestock, and no checkering. The rifle had a 22" barrel, and checkering if you can call it that. The checkering was pressed in, and the rifle would have looked better with no checkering at all.

The Mod 100s are very good rifles, and are hard to find today in good shape, but if you do they ar nice rifles. They were chanbered for 243 Win, 308 Win and 284 . the magazine holds 4 rounds in 243, and 308, and 3 in 284.
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Good hunting!

[Winmodel100fitz]

I have a Win model 100, have taken many deer with this rifle, very accurate, my groups are never more than an inch at 100 unless I flinch or have an unstable surface to shoot from. I have just had the mech jam shut while taking my precautionary trial sighting shot (one) before season. I did get the shell unjamed at home, and did hit the 1 inch bull with the one shot. My problem is that I took the triger mech apart to clean the gun so this would not happen again. Now I can see how the parts go back together but can not get the trigger assembly to slide off the gun for reassembly. The stock has been removed, and it appears that the whole trigger mech should slide forward or back to be removed from the barrel (seems to be slotted) but will not slide off. Attempting to reassemble the trigger mech while this part remains on the gun seems to be next to impossible because I have to means to see into the sloted mech to place springs and compress them as required. I am new to this sight and good use some help prior to deer season on the 15th of November here in Michigan. This looks like a great place to find answers. This gun has jammed in the past and I am woundering if anyone else with this gun has had that same problem. When it jams the chamber remains shut and the slide will not move. I assumed this was do to a dirty slide action and have cleaned it as best I can, still need to remove a few more parts to complete the job. I have also read that I replacing the ejection spring with a heavier one might stop the jaming problem. This gun has jammed only 8 to 10 times over the last 20 years. And it has been shot quite a bit every year. I am thinking that do to the guns difficulty in disassembly and cleaning it hasn't been done like it should have been. I was handed down this gun from my uncle who passed away back in 1985. Doe's anyone have a repair manual for this gun? Thanks for your help. Avid deer hunter.

[Captainkirk]

i use a model 100 for deer hunting. my bolt is jamed shut and the gun is unloaded i cant seam to get the gun apart to look for the problem. is there a way to disassemble it without pulling the bolt back?

[BillH]

Captainkirk. The stuck bolt is often due to sticking or corrosion in the gas cylinder. Light tapping on the bolt handle with a wood block might get it to move for disassembly. Others have pointed out that it is easy to break the bolt handle from the slide, so only light tapping.

Here is some great disassembly information from another site, including what to do if the bolt is really stuck.

http://www.wisnersinc.com/additional...erl_88_100.htm

MODEL 100 DISASSEMBLY: The proper disassembly of the model 100 is to first remove the magazine, then remove the forearm screw AND the trigger guard screw behind the trigger guard. Now pull the operating handle all the way to the rear. While holding it to the rear, pivot the barrel unit up out of the stock. The rear of the receiver is held in place by it fitting in a notch in the recoil block in the stock. The reason that the operating handle has to be rearward is to allow enough clearance for the side rods from the handle to the gas cylinder unit to clear the slot in the forearm section. Since these rods are hidden in the forearm with wood covering them except when the handle is pulled all the way back.

If the gas cylinder is rusted so tightly into the operating slide assembly that it can not be pulled rearward, there is one solution. You will by now have some movement of the barrel away from the forearm. Select a long punch that will go in between the barrel & the forearm. Locate the small retainer ring that locks the gas cylinder sleeve/plug in place, hit it hard enough with the punch to break it. Now you can use a large long screwdriver to engage the slot on the end of this plug, unscrew it. You should now be able to move the operating handle to the rear. What you have done is to remove the “cap nut” that holds the gas cylinder into the barrels gas lug, the cylinder being rusted in the operating handle, it will now be retracted out of the lug, allowing the handle to be retracted. This information supplied by a long-time Winchester warranty gunsmith Walter Lodewick.

MODEL 100 OPERATING HANDLE FREE BUT NOT RETRACTING ALL THE WAY :- This usually can be attributed to the owner trying to disassemble the gun using the thought that the trigger housing will come out first from the bottom. They can not get it to come out (usually bending the side rails) so they reassemble it, only to now find that the handle will not operate. What they have done is that the safety somehow got pushed off, in the process, they pulled the trigger & not knowing what has just happened, when they retightened this unit the hammer’s top rear corner is now bound up between the bolt sleeve & the head on the rear of the firing pin. The trick is now to remove the rear guard screw, pry the trigger guard assembly down far enough to reach inside & recock the hammer with a long hooked rod.

[BillH]

Winmodel100fitz,

I think you are looking for the "trigger pin". It's part number 65 on this diagram:

http://www.okiegunsmithshop.com/win_100.jpg

You access it via a notch in the operating slide rail (part #42). You need to hold the bolt partly back to align the slot in the rail with the pin. Mine pushes out easily, but you may need someone to help hold the bolt in the right place. The entire trigger assembly comes apart from the receiver when this is removed.

Bill

[BillH]

My model 100 has fired on slamming closed, when loading, with the safety on and not touching the trigger. After thorough cleaning, I've noticed that the firing pin "marks" the primer every time the bolt is slammed close. It's a light enough hit that most ammunition does not fire. The slam fire occurs often with Federal Fusion ammunition. Apparently this ammunition has a more sensitive primer than other ammunition I've tried. I know it's not the ammunition's fault, but it seems to show that the gun is almost firing any round on slamming closed. I am guessing this may mean that the firing pin spring is weak and needs to be replaced. Can anyone confirm this idea from their experience?

The gun had the new recall firing pin installed about 18 years ago and has worked fine with that for a long time. The problems are recent.

Thanks for any help or ideas. Bill

[joeman169]

hey i cant figure out how to get the bolt dissassembled on this damn thing can anyone help me? i got 2 pins out of it but i see nothing else to take apart on it... can anyone help me? id rather not send it to BFE to a gunsmith in the mail. unfortunately the smiths around me dont want to mess with it.

[Captn_Rob]

Quote:       Originally Posted by Captainkirk

i use a model 100 for deer hunting. my bolt is jamed shut and the gun is unloaded i cant seam to get the gun apart to look for the problem. is there a way to disassemble it without pulling the bolt back?

Take it to a gunsmith. Had the same problem with mine. Cost only $35 for that and to have the firing pin replaced.